The ancient decorative technique is used to showcase floral motifs cherished by visionary naturalist Jaquet Droz: Fleur de Lys and Fleur de Vie – Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée & Grande Seconde Paillonnée in the Atelier d’Art Collection.
The craft of paillonné enameling is as rare today as it was 300 years ago. It is practically a lost art. Three hundred years ago is also when the Jaquet-Droz dynasty was founded, and the company of the same name carries on the tradition to this day.
Today, these two legacies come together in an unparalleled way. They cross paths at La Chaux-de-Fonds, inside the Jaquet Droz Ateliers d’Art. Nestled at the bottom of this watchmaking valley is where the Maison’s two latest watchmaking masterpieces came to life: the “Fleur de Lys” Grande Seconde Paillonnée and the “Fleur de Vie” Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée.
What sets these two red gold timepieces apart is the art of paillonné enamelling, an age-old decorative technique. The concept is based on another decorative art special to Jaquet Droz, the one used in the Grand Feu enamel dials. First, guilloché work is done on a gold dial. It is then covered in translucent coloured enamel that lets the guilloché patterns shine through. Next, several layers of enamel are applied, each one individually fired in the oven. Then comes the phase that demands the dexterity of Jaquet Droz artisans because every new layer of enamel and firing can introduce cracks or flaws, which would mean starting from scratch. At this stage, the piece still shows slight variations in colour. It also depends on each firing process.
It isn’t until the next phase that dainty motifs cut from a thin gold leaf, the paillons (or strips), are placed by hand one by one to create a figure. Once the design is done, the figures are also covered with another layer of enamel and fired in the same oven. This translucent coat will protect the paillonné motif for centuries to come, as if freezing it in place for all eternity.
Each of these new pieces is extremely limited to a Numerus Clausus series of eight, and Jaquet Droz opted for two distinctive ornamental designs: Fleur de Lys and Fleur de Vie. The former symbolizes kings and emperors. Emblems of a very long heraldic tradition, fleurs de lys are still found from France to Missouri, by way of England, Finland, Germany and Spain.
The latter, the fleur de vie, is a geometric design that has traveled through millennia and across cultures. It’s a beautiful image representing the birth and growth of all living things on Earth. A cluster made of the golden ratio (a design formula for obtaining perfect proportions), it is comprised of overlapping interwoven circles. The form’s perfection and finesse has been turning heads from Assyria to Egypt, by way of China and France. It was even a subject of Leonardo da Vinci’s writing. These two new motifs now come alive in the heart of Swiss watchmaking at the Jaquet Droz Ateliers d’Art where the Maison still practices its Art of Astonishment.
“Some watches tell time. Some tell a story”
Jaquet Droz Atelier d’Art Collection Technical Specifications
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Paillonnée
REFERENCE
- J003033437
DESCRIPTION
- “Blue Grand Feu paillonné-enameled and silver opaline dial with 18-karat red gold applique.
- 18-karat red gold case.
- Self-winding mechanical movement.
- Power reserve of 68 hours.
- Diameter 43 mm.
- Numerus Clausus of 8.”
MOVEMENT
- Jaquet Droz 2663.P,
- self-winding mechanical movement,
- silicon balance spring and pallet horns,
- double barrel,
- 18-karat red gold oscillating weight
INDICATIONS
- Off-centred hours and minutes at 12 o’clock
- Large off-centred second at 6 o’clock
JEWELING
- 30 jewels
POWER RESERVE
- 68 hours
FREQUENCY
- 28,800 v.p.h.
CASE
- 18-karat red gold case
- Diameter 43 mm
- Height: 12.06 mm
- Individual limited serial number engraved on the case-back
WATER RESISTANCE
- To 3 bar (30 meters)
DIAL
- Blue Grand Feu paillonné-enameled and silver opaline dial
- 18-karat red gold applique.
HANDS
- Blued steel
STRAP
- Rolled-edge hand-made blue alligator
CLASP
- 18-karat red gold ardillon buckle
NUMERUS CLAUSUS
- Numerus Clausus of 8
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée
REFERENCE
- J005003244
DESCRIPTION
- “Blue Grand Feu paillonné-enameled and white mother-of-pearl dial with 18-karat red gold applique.
- 18-karat red gold case set with 232 diamonds, total of 1.23 carats.
- Self-winding mechanical movement.
- Power reserve of 68 hours.
- Diameter 35 mm.
- Numerus Clausus of 8.”
MOVEMENT
- Jaquet Droz 2653.P,
- self-winding mechanical movement,
- silicon balance spring and pallet horns,
- double barrel,
- flat bridges,
- 18-karat red gold oscillating weight.
INDICATIONS
- Off-centred hours and minutes at 12 o’clock
JEWELING
- 28 jewels
POWER RESERVE
- 68 hours
FREQUENCY
- 28,800 v.p.h.
CASE
- 18-karat red gold case set with 232 diamonds, total of 1.23 carats.
- Diameter 35 mm
- Height 10.80 mm
- Individual limited serial number engraved on the case-back
WATER RESISTANCE
- To 3 bar (30 meters)
DIAL
- Blue Grand Feu paillonné-enameled and white mother-of-pearl dial
- 18-karat red gold applique
HANDS
- Blued steel
STRAP
- Rolled-edge hand-made blue alligator
CLASP
- 18-karat red gold ardillon buckle
TOTAL CARAT WEIGHT/DIAMONDS/COLOURED GEMS
- IF to VVSI, Full Cut, D to G
- Total number of diamonds: 232 diamonds
- Total carat weight: 1.23 carats
NUMERUS CLAUSUS
- Numerus Clausus of 8
