Review Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition

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The 230th anniversary of Girard-Perregaux continues during Dubai Watch week with two dial colour versions for Laureato. This time, it is celebrated with a guilloché sunray motif enriched with green or blue grand feu enamel. Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition continues a legacy started more than 40 years ago and evolves continuously still following closely the most traditional dial decorating techniques.

Laureato, as we all know it

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition is fully familiar since it continues the 42mm line we saw in these last years. The juxtaposition of geometrical shapes and finishes is the trademark and the most recognisable characteristic of the collection.

The steel case and bracelet are manufactured in the same 904L steel that offers the extraordinary contrast of brushed and polished finishes. The case line integrates in an organic (natural) way the metal bracelet with distinct finished elements. The screwed-in crown is the same with the GP embossed logo on a polished finish as we encounter in previous models.

The bracelet is fitted with triple folding with push release buttons. The wear is a habitual pleasure. I am accustomed to the full metal bracelet in general and Laureato 42mm in particular and I found it comfy and reassuring. Reassuring in the idea that I am constantly aware of the watch without the feeling of a burdening weight.

The dial houses two important traditions: enamelling and guilloché

While the guilloché is a typical presence on the face of Laureato (excepting the Infinity editions), being almost exclusively present as a “Clou de Paris” pattern. For the Eternity edition, the brand opted for a sunray motif. This is superbly visible under the translucent grand feu enamel. The light plays a huge factor in the way the dial reveals itself.

The show-stealer is the blue or green translucent grand feu enamel. The enamel is a mixture of silica, minium, potash and soda which are ground into a powder that is fired several times at approx 800°C. This recipe is enriched with different metal oxides to create various colours. The dials are made in-house (using the expertise of Donze Cadrans – one of the best). The final result is obtained by firing 5 to 10 times until the result is the best possible.

The high failure rates make this technique one of the rare arts in general horology, expensive and highly desirable. But this traditional technique produces exceptional results and each finished dial is unique – from the way the powder is spread to the way the heat melts it. The main advantage is the finish that will retain its aspect and colour forever…

Forgetting for a moment about the beauty of an enamelled guilloché and coming back to the Laureato theme. Girard-Perregaux resorts to using very simple rhodium-plated dial elements. Elongated baton markers are accompanied by long hands (this time without any luminescent material) with a shape emulating the brand’s prominent bridges. This detail is also visible on the central second’s hand’s counterweight.

Placed at 3 o’clock, the date reflects the dial’s scheme: the Arabic numerals with a beautiful font are printed with a silvery colour (the same used for dial printings) on a disc with the same colour shade as the dial (blue, or green, in this case).

The manufacture calibre GP01800

Visible under the see-through screws-fixed caseback, the movement is a workhorse manufactured and finished in-house. Calibre GP01800 is nicely decorated with perlage (circular graining) on the mainplate and bridges’ base, Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), and polished bevelling (chamfering). The pink gold oscillating weight is accompanied by gilded engravings bearing various info. There are a lot of details to be enjoyed.

The automatic movement uses 191 parts, 28 are jewels and a pink gold oscillating rotor. The balance wheel oscillates at 4Hz offering 54 hours of power reserve. Excepting the golf rotor weight, the movement is the same one used in the other Laureatos.

True DNA, traditions and exclusivity

We have the purest form of Laureato – a three hands with date watch that follows the lineage of the 1975 model, a lovely guilloché dial covered with a magnificent grand feu enamel. Girard-Perregaux sticks to its heritage and traditions in an exemplary manner. Instead of reissuing countless designs, the brand reinterprets its DNA in a modern approach but using (and keeping alive) traditional methods.

As visible in the wrist-roll video, the light plays a huge role in the way we perceive the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition: from the relief of the guilloché highlighted by light to the finish of the enamel that tends to get real dark and revealing. In certain angles, we can observe all the details of the enamel, all the imperfections of the shiny surface.

This marvel will be sold exclusively by Seddiqi (Dubai) during December 2021, afterwards being made available in all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers and on the brand’s e-commerce site.