In the world of watch collecting, the most exceptional discoveries are often serendipitous, a fact Guillaume Laidet, CEO of Nivada Grenchen, can certainly attest to. Recently, in a stroke of luck akin to unearthing hidden treasure, he came across a batch of 10 vintage Nivada Grenchen dials, astonishingly pristine and untouched. These glossy orange dials with distinctive Arabic numerals and tritium indexes, are not just highly sought-after by collectors – they’re also a testament to the enduring legacy of Nivada Grenchen’s craftsmanship – Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition N.O.S.. For connoisseurs and aficionados alike, this find is nothing short of extraordinary.
Besides an original vintage dial, each of these 10 Depthmasters will also come equipped with a meticulously sourced ETA 2472 movement – also of ‘new old stock’. While the case and hands were produced in 2023, the essence of these watches remains firmly rooted in their heritage. The Depthmaster Limited Edition N.O.S. will be released for sale on 18 January 2024.
In a nod to this revival, Nivada Grenchen is infusing its current collection with this distinctive orange hue. The new models will bear a few nuanced differences on the dial, discernible only to the keenest of eyes, to celebrate not only their storied past but also signal a vibrant, forward-thinking approach to watch design.
‘T SWISS MADE T’ –timelessly authentic
Marked with ‘T SWISS MADE T’ at 6 o’clock, the orange dial of the vintage Depthmaster isn’t just a nod to authenticity; it’s a timestamp to an era. This designation signifies the use of Tritium, a luminescent material that replaced the banned Radium in 1962, offering a safer and more reliable glow. This marking not only confirms the dial’s vintage status but also serves as a key to its dating and authentication.
In contrast, the dials in the current collection are inscribed with ‘L SWISS MADE L‘, a choice by Guillaume Laidet to signify the use of modern Super-LumiNova®, while subtly differentiating it from its vintage counterpart. This detail is more than just a technical specification; it’s a bridge between the heritage and the future of watchmaking.
Another distinct divergence is the presence of a date window at 3 o’clock in the vintage model, a feature absent in the current collector’s edition. This difference isn’t just functional; it alters the visual balance and the essence of the watch’s face, highlighting the evolution in design aesthetics over the years. Thus, each model, vintage and contemporary, tells its own unique story of timekeeping.
Depthmaster: the quintessential tool watch
Nivada Grenchen, often an unsung hero in the watchmaking world, boasts a history as rich and authentic as it is fascinating. Established in 1926 by Jacob Schneider, the brand swiftly carved out a niche for itself with beautifully crafted, affordable, and highly reliable tool watches, standing out in an era of more conventional timepieces.
The Depthmaster, born in 1965, marked a watershed moment in diving watches, being the first to boast a staggering water resistance of 1,000 meters (3,300 feet). In the context of the mid-20th century, this feat was nothing short of revolutionary, dwarfing the typical 100 to 200-meter standard of the time. Nivada Grenchen‘s innovation was pivotal in the realm of sporting performance watches.
This remarkable achievement was made possible through:
(1) a more robust, water-resistant winding crown;
(2) specialized internal protection mechanisms;
(3) additional threads in the case back; and
(4) a double-thick crystal.
Each of these technical advancements not only set the Depthmaster apart but also cemented Nivada Grenchen‘s legacy as a trailblazer in the evolution of diver’s watches.
What’s even more intriguing about the Depthmaster is that, in its time, it was so different from the majority of other dive watches, which typically featured round cases, rotating bezels, and round luminous indexes. Instead, the Depthmaster boasts a distinctive 38 mm cushion-shaped case with robust lugs, a thick, knurled-edge metal bezel without an insert, and highly luminous, utterly unique indexes. These famous markers are immediately recognizable. Underwater, it’s impossible to mistake a Depthmaster for anything else; its visual signature is that distinct and commanding
Depthmaster, the Book – a must-have guide
his is a 100-page tome, perfect for gracing your desk, coffee table, or bedside stand. Accompanying the launch is a comprehensive reference book that meticulously catalogs every possible variation of Nivada Grenchen’s Depthmaster iterations. Authored by Aashdin K. Billmoria, a lifelong enthusiast and collector of the brand, this book unravels the incredible diversity within the Depthmaster collection through his rigorous methodology. It’s an essential resource for admirers of the line, revealing the multifaceted nature of these iconic timepieces.
To purchase the book: https://nivadagrenchenofficial.com/collections/the-books/
About the author
Aashdin Billimoria has been a dedicated watchmaker, archivist, historian, and full-time writer for over thirty years. His current projects include a book on Nivada Grenchen’s Depthmaster collection and a more expansive work, Comprehensive Guide to Vintage Swiss Watches, a project that has been in the making for over three years. Hailing from a family of watch collectors, he began his own collection at the age of 8. With around 450 watches, predominantly vintage, in his collection, he chooses timepieces that bring a smile to his face, regardless of their monetary value. Aashdin is deeply passionate about his craft, dedicating several hours each day to studying horology, making him an authority in the field. He has recently featured on Fratello Watches’ #speedytuesday show and is a respected figure in the watch community.
Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Technical Specifications
2 Versions:
Limited Edition of 10 pieces (New Old Stock) – $2,890
Current Collection (not limited) – $995
References: 14127A
Movement
- Limited Edition N.O.S.: New Old Stock ETA 2472
- Current Collection: SOPROD P024
- Functions: Hours, minutes and central seconds
- Power reserve: 38 hours
Case
- 39 mm, 316L stainless steel
- Water resistance: 1 000 m, automatic helium release valve
- Crystal: sapphire
Dial
- Limited Edition ‘New Old Stock’ – glossy orange, original tritium indices ‘T SWISS MADE T’, date window at 3 o’clock
- Current Collection – glossy orange, markers highlighted with cream-colored Super-LumiNova® crème ‘L SWISS MADE L’
- Hands: cream-colored Super-LumiNova®
Strap:
- Several choices of straps
Book : $50, offered with the purchase of the Limited Edition
Availability: 18 January 2024
About Nivada Grenchen
Nivada Grenchen timepieces have been an integral part of the Swiss watchmaking landscape since 1926 when Jacob Schneider founded the brand in Granges (known as Grenchen in Swiss-German). In 1976, his son Max took over the business. In the United States, the Croton Company served as the official distributor for all Nivada Grenchen watches, which explains why some timepieces bear the Croton signature or both the Croton and Nivada Grenchen logos.
As early as 1930, Nivada Grenchen was among the pioneering companies in crafting automatic watches. This innovation paved the way for the creation of Nivada Grenchen’s first waterproof automatic watch in 1950: the Antarctic.