Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet presents a new variation of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph in 41 mm, crafted in 18-carat yellow gold. This design echoes the colours and materials introduced in 2022 with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin model unveiled for the collection’s 50th anniversary. Applied to the yellow gold-toned Grande Tapisserie dial, the gradient effect contrasts with the gold counters of this selfwinding chronograph, powered by the Calibre 4401 with flyback function. Combining state-of-the-art mechanics with vintage-inspired yellow gold, this model offers a new, contemporary interpretation of the Royal Oak.
A luminous golden dial
The new model features a yellow gold-toned dial with a smoked gradation that creates depth, while intensifying the shimmer of the Grande Tapisserie. This signature pattern, formed of truncated pyramids, is first guilloché into the brass of the dial and then plated with 18-carat yellow gold in a galvanic bath. The smoked effect is achieved by spraying a black varnish from the edge of the dial towards the centre, which is lighter. This operation is done by hand using a tool similar to a stylus and requires skill and dexterity to ensure a precise and subtle application.
The three gold-toned counters – the hour counter at 3 o’clock, the small seconds at 6 o’clock and the 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock – stand out against the gradient dial. The applied hour-markers, as well as the central hands – all crafted in 18-carat yellow gold and facetted – are highlighted with luminescent material. The minute scale is printed in white on the flat edge of the dial, whose black peripheral colour contrasts with the yellow gold-toned inner bezel. The 24-carat gold “Audemars Piguet” signature, obtained by galvanic growth and electroplated with black rhodium, is affixed at 12 o’clock. An aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock completes the information on the dial by displaying the date in black on a yellow gold-toned background.
A Royal Oak all in yellow gold
Historically, the first Royal Oak model in yellow gold from 1977 (ref. 8638) was destined to women and designed by Jacqueline Dimier – then head of the design office and creator of the women’s Royal Oak launched in 1976. At the time, the demand for yellow gold models was growing and both the Royal Oak “Jumbo” model (ref. 5402) and the 35 mm “Royal Oak III” (ref. 4100) also welcomed a yellow gold version (BA). This material has been eclipsed by pink gold since the 2000s, before regaining popularity more recently.
The new Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph, launched in 2024, is crafted entirely in 18-carat yellow gold, from the case to the bracelet. The upper surface of the octagonal bezel is satin-finished while the bevel is mirror-polished. The polished hexagonal heads of the eight screws are the only white gold elements on the case, standing out against the satin-brushed yellow gold. These contrasting finishes are also found on the crown and chronograph push-pieces. Similarly, the alternation of finely satin-brushed surfaces and polished chamfers creates reflections throughout the case and on the links of the integrated bracelet.
“Yellow gold is a sublime material – bright and precious. The iconic lines and finishes of the Royal Oak, combined with the gradient yellow gold-toned dial, allowed us to create subtle contrasts while enhancing both the yellow gold itself and the design of the watch.”
Sofia Candeias
Product Director, Audemars Piguet
The integrated chronograph Calibre 4401
The 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph in 18-carat yellow gold is powered by the Calibre 4401, the Manufacture’s latest integrated chronograph. This movement features a column wheel with a vertical clutch system to activate, stop and reset the chronograph – a device renowned for its isochronism and its ability to reduce start-up jumps. The result of hundreds of hours of work, the Calibre 4401 also represents a new combination of complications for Audemars Piguet, featuring a jumping hour together with an integrated flyback chronograph mechanism. The flyback system enables to take several new measurements in a row, swiftly and easily, as the chronograph can be restarted without being interrupted or reset first. The collection’s dedicated 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight is visible through the sapphire caseback, along with the traditional decorations adorning the movement.
