Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet unveils a brand-new version of its Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked (Ref. 16204). Already presented in pink gold, yellow gold and steel, the 39 mm collection expands today with a model in white gold. The selfwinding Calibre 7124 powering the timepiece measures a mere 2.7 mm in thickness and combines extreme finesse with a contemporary openwork design. This refined timepiece, with its different tones of grey, will be available from April 2024.
A beautiful blend of grey tones
The Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ultra-Thin Openworked model (16204) pays tribute to the aesthetics of the first Royal Oak from 1972, characterised by its sporty look and stainless steel body. Today, this new openworked model boasts a case and bracelet crafted entirely from 18-carat white gold. The edges of the bezel, the case and each link of the bracelet are mirror polished, while their other surfaces are vertically satin-finished, thus creating alternating matt and shiny finishes—Audemars Piguet’s signature design.
The movement has been treated in different shades of anthracite grey that contrast with the colour of the case to highlight the meticulous openwork.
To provide optimum legibility, the watch’s inner bezel is slightly darker than the movement. It is complemented by white gold hour-markers that offer a subtle contrast with the treatment applied to the Calibre 7124. This theme is repeated on the back, with a rhodium-toned gold oscillating weight, which has also been finished with alternating polished and satin finishes. The oscillating weight is also openworked to reveal the details of the movement and the timepiece has a 57-hour power reserve.
The Calibre 7124, the result of extensive know-how
Employed by Audemars Piguet for almost a century (since the 1930s), openwork consists of removing as much material as possible from each component without compromising the movement’s performance. Each component of Calibre 7124 is thus visible in the light, which enables the wearer to admire the details of the barrel, escapement and gear train.
The Calibre 7124 is specially developed to fit inside the 8.1 mm thick “Jumbo” case, without compromising on its slenderness or design, attesting to the expertise dear to Audemars Piguet. Using advanced production technologies, the shapes of the main plate and bridges are cut out using CNC (computer numerical control) machines, before being honed to the desired shape. Each component is then decorated using ancestral techniques. The polished interior angles can be admired on either side of the movement and are a perfect reflection of the meticulous hand-work that goes into achieving this level of precision.
Openworking is thus one of the most demanding exercises for Audemars Piguet’s decoration workshops. An openworked movement multiplies the number of inner angles – 247 on this movement – links and edges. Each inner angle is painstakingly finished by hand. The alternating polished and satin finishes therefore continue across the movement and all its parts.
“Jumbo” and the art of openworking
Over the decades, the Royal Oak collection has grown to include some 50 openworked models, equipped with different movements and available in a variety of sizes, materials and styles.
Although openwork first appeared in the Royal Oak collection in 1981 in the form of a pendant (Model 5710BA), it really found its place in the collection during the 1990s, a decade marked by the proliferation of Royal Oak openworked models.
The first openworked “Jumbo” was launched in 1992. This model (Ref. 14811) was notable for its dial adorned with an oak motif, which celebrated the launch of the Audemars Piguet Foundation dedicated to forest preservation. This timepiece was auctioned off to raise funds for projects supported by the Foundation. Until the year 2000, numerous other openworked “Jumbo” models, equipped with the extra-thin Calibre 2120, were created in small series. While some were adorned with gemsetting, others featured ultra-stylish designs.
Openworking made a comeback in the “Jumbo” collection in 2010 with Model 15305, equipped with the selfwinding Calibre 3129, which was only 4.31 mm thick. The movement’s galvanic treatment contrasted elegantly with the stainless steel case. Two years later, to mark the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak, the Manufacture revealed an anthracite openworked limited edition in 950 platinum that was powered by the Calibre 5122. An 18-carat pink gold version followed in 2014. The Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked model reappeared in 2022 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the collection. Today, this new addition in white gold completes the range with an aesthetic that is both sober and refined.
