The last ten pieces of the initial fifty-piece series of the Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater explore new realms of elegance. In closing the first major chapter of its history, and before the curtain rises on a new timepiece next September, the young independent Maison honors the art of dial making with guilloché watch faces in Mother-of-Pearl and Black Obsidian.
The dial – the face of a watch and the reflection of its soul
The dial, the very face of a watch, not only sets the tone but also establishes its style. It captivates at first glance, a hint at the character of the timepiece. Whether it conceals or reveals the inner workings, the dial begins to weave the narrative of the watch before one even gets to the details of its composition or craftsmanship. It is the first chapter in the story that each watch uniquely tells.
Around 1850, the Parisian tailor Chevreuil famously opined that a suit is, first and foremost, an idea that envelops a man’s body. This perspective deeply resonates with Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver. They too perceive a watch as an extension of the wearer’s personality. “A watch transcends mere objecthood; it is not just a collection of moving parts. It embodies a desire, ambition, and conviction. It represents both an abstract vision and a concrete accomplishment. A watch is a personal notion that seamlessly integrates with the wearer. Our philosophy,” Pierre Biver shares, “is to bring out the soul of each watch.”
As the face of the watch, the dial inherently mirrors its essence. This makes the dial maker’s craft integral to the chain of expertise and craftsmanship involved in the art of watchmaking. Since the dawn of horology, the dial has been the focus of the utmost attention and care. As a defining element, it straddles two realms: form and function.
For the ultimate ten pieces of the initial fifty-piece series of its first watch, the Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater, launched just a year ago, the young independent Maison Biver wished to pay a particular tribute to the dial maker’s artistry – by proposing two original dial options.
The first dial, crafted from black obsidian, creates a striking contrast with the warm preciousness of the rose gold case. The second, in mother-of-pearl, enhances the elegant simplicity of the titanium version. In both designs, the case dimensions remain the same, with a reasonable diameter of 42 mm and a restrained thickness of 13.70 mm. The movement is the automatic JCB-001 caliber with micro-rotor winding; it beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz) and offers a 72-hour power reserve.
“Introducing new dial variations isn’t groundbreaking in itself and this special series isn’t about heralding a major innovation. Our Carillon Tourbillon remains unchanged at its core, with all the elements that define its uniqueness, both technically and aesthetically. It represents a sporty neo-classical interpretation of the minute repeater. Given our commitment to custom-made excellence, we aimed to broaden the spectrum of choices for the final pieces by adopting a more formal look, apt for evening occasions. In this spirit, we’re presenting two dials featuring distinctive guilloché patterns and baguette diamond indexes with a novel cut, complemented by leather straps,” Pierre Biver elaborates.
To truly appreciate the distinctiveness of these two dials, which unquestionably also give the Carillon Tourbillon’s an aura that is just as unique, a detailed examination is merited. In keeping with the original versions, in the spirit of coherence and continuity and striving for consistency and harmony, both watch faces are ever so subtly domed – a complex effect achieved through meticulous polishing of the raw material. This curvature not only enhances the interplay of light upon its surface but also pays homage to historical timepieces, particularly 18th and 19th-century pocket watches, whose dials were not perfectly flat. A notable characteristic of these new dials is their two-part construction: the periphery with the pad-stamped minute track is polished, while the central area is adorned with intricate guillochage.
A guilloché pattern dedicated to the watch, unprecedented in its concentric geometry
The guilloché pattern commands attention. Its singular form arises from the engraving being concentrically executed around the tourbillon, ensuring that no two curves are identical.
This meticulous craftsmanship results in a truly one-of-a-kind design. Based on a half-transversely cut pyramid, it echoes the bracelet links of the first forty pieces already delivered – a bold, powerful, and modernist geometry that draws inspiration particularly from some of the most beautiful aspects of 1970s and 1980s automotive design. For the past year, some observers have fondly referred to it as the “Biver Cut” to denote this unprecedented shape.
Two features of these dials warrant special mention. First, the baguette cut of the diamond indices not only adds visual dynamism to the dial but also enhances the stones’ inherent fluidity. upon closer inspection, one can discern a delicately flat area within the central guillochage pattern, meticulously designed to precisely host each gold letter of the Biver inscription.
“These might seem like minor details, but they underscore the importance we place on every aspect, from design to execution. If nothing here is standard, it’s because we’re dedicated to a pursuit of beauty that demands stringent selection and control criteria. Our commitment to what we perceive as perfection is unwavering in every component of our watches, whether it’s the beveled peaks and polished angles of our Dauphine hands or the chamfering of our movement parts. Every element of a watch is noble and warrants equal attention and ambition,” says Pierre Biver. He adds, “Craftsmanship should serve an execution aimed at beauty. The beauty of the gesture lies in creating beauty through that very gesture.”
A deep respect for natural materials
Beyond a stylistic intention, the guilloché and polishing work on mother-of-pearl and obsidian demonstrate the reverence artisan-craftspeople of Biver Watches feel for natural materials. Black obsidian, once shaped into tools and weapons in prehistoric times, now enchants as a gemstone with its enigmatic shades. Mother-of-pearl, ethereal in its very structure, continuously mesmerizes with myriad reflections.
“In working with these natural materials, we honor their integrity and their essence. We are guided by the whims of nature and therefore we embrace its unpredictability,” Pierre Biver shares.
Also notable is the thoughtful selection of materials for the watch straps. On the titanium version with the mother-of-pearl dial, Alcantara, with its velvety texture and the almost mineral quality of its gray hue, enhances the watch’s sporty elegance with a nod to exclusive automotive design. Meanwhile, the gray water buffalo leather strap selected for the rose gold variant with an obsidian dial, stands out due to its rarity, strength, and durability, offering a compelling blend of luxury and functionality.
While each collector will naturally be able to customize their piece according to their desires, with this special series of ten timepieces, Biver Watches introduces two complementary artistic directions for its Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater.
For reference, the prices of the two models presented are 560,000 CHF for the version with the mother-of-pearl dial and baguette diamond indexes in the titanium case, and 630,000 CHF for the version with the silvered black obsidian dial and baguette diamond indexes in the rose gold case.
Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater in Mother-of-Pearl and Black Obsidian Technical Specifications
Watch name: Carillon Tourbillon Biver
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon, carillon minute repeater, micro-rotor
Movement:
- JCB.001-A (mother-of-pearl dial); JCB.001-B (obsidian dial)
- Movement type: Automatic caliber, micro-rotor winding
- Winding and adjustment via the crown (2 positions)
- Components: 374
- Jewels: 44 rubies
- Diameter: 34 mm
- Power reserve: approximately 72 hours
- Specific feature: Platinum micro-rotor with decorative plate in rose gold
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz)
- Decorations: 18K white gold bridges; 18K 5N rose gold bar bridge; gear 5N
Components mirror-polished and satin-brush finished, bevels mirror-polished and straight-grained
Case
- Case material: 18K 5N rose gold (obsidian) or Grade 5 titanium (mother-of-pearl)
- Case diameter: 42 mm
- Case thickness: 13.90 mm
- Crystal: Sapphire with antireflective coating on the inside
- Case back: Sapphire crystal
- Water resistance: 5 ATM (50 meters, approximately 160 feet)
Dial:
- Black Obsidian:
- Center: Black obsidian, guilloché
- Periphery: Black obsidian, polished
- Indices: Baguette-cut diamonds
- Hands: 18K 5N rose gold; satin-finished, beveled by hand
- ‘Biver’ applique: 18K 5N rose gold
- White Mother-of-Pearl:
- Center: White mother-of-pearl, guilloché
- Periphery: White mother-of-pearl, polished
- Indices: Baguette-cut diamonds
- Hands: 18K white gold; satin-finished, beveled by hand
- ‘Biver’ applique: 18K white gold
Strap
- Gray Alcantara or Gray Buffalo Leather
- Buckle: Folding clasp with pin in either 18K 5N rose gold or Grade 5 titanium
About Biver Watches
Jean-Claude Biver, after 50 years in the watchmaking business, and his son Pierre Biver, both passionate collectors, embarked on a magnificent adventure in March 2023: the creation of an ultra-exclusive and prestigious watch brand. Free from any economic pressure and constraints, they have engaged the best specialists in each field to create exceptional timepieces. The first model features a complication particularly dear to them: a minute repeater with a carillon, tourbillon, and micro-rotor.