Geneva — Among the treasures to be presented at the upcoming Rare Watches auction in Geneva in November, Christie’s will offer an exceptionally rare and historically important timepiece: Breguet No. 3218. This tonneau-shaped perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date and moon phases, produced in 1935, was sold to the celebrated French designer Paul Iribe, known for his significant contributions to Art Deco design, the graphic arts and even Hollywood movie sets. Iribe’s close association with Coco Chanel and his influence in design history enhance the watch’s already profound cultural significance.
The Breguet No. 3218 stands as an important milestone in the history of watchmaking. As one of only two known Breguet perpetual calendar wristwatches with a retrograde date from the pre-war era, this timepiece represents a groundbreaking moment in horological innovation. Its movement is an early example of the technical advancements that Breguet pioneered, showcasing the brand’s precision and innovation during the early 20th century. This wristwatch is among the earliest perpetual calendar models ever produced by Breguet, with features that were rare and advanced for its time.
Paul Iribe’s acquisition of this wristwatch adds further historical significance. An undisputed talent as a designer in the fields of textiles, advertising, graphics, and stage design, he was also a leading figure in the Art Deco movement. Iribe was closely associated with Coco Chanel, collaborating on a number of creative projects, including her first high jewelry collection. Their relationship was both deeply personal and professional, lasting until Iribe’s untimely death in 1935. This particular watch reflects the refined tastes of the period and embodies the artistic spirit of the era. It stands as a symbol of both Breguet’s technical prowess but also of the cultural and aesthetic zeitgeist of the time.
The Breguet No. 3218 is one of only four known vintage retrograde perpetual calendar wristwatches across any brand. Its combination of technical complexity and cultural significance makes it one of the most important discoveries in recent years for the history of wristwatches. The technical achievement of incorporating a retrograde date and moon phases in a perpetual calendar wristwatch—particularly one from this period—places the watch in a special category within horology.
Signed Breguet, no. 3218, ‘Quantième Perpétuel – date rétrograde, jours et mois guichets, phases de lune’, manufactured in 1935, sold to monsieur Paul Iribe on 24 may, 1935, for the sum of 10,000 francs.
Estimate: CHF100,000-200,000 | US$120,000-240,000 | €110,000-210,000
Remi Guillemin, Head of Watches, Europe and Americas, shares: “Breguet No. 3218 is a landmark in horology, representing a fusion of technical brilliance and historical importance. This watch is not only the earliest of the only two known Breguet perpetual calendar wristwatches with a retrograde date feature, but it also ranks among the very few examples of vintage perpetual calendars from any brand. We are grateful to Montres Breguet and Mr. Emmanuel Breguet for their assistance in accessing the archives that shed light on this important timepiece.”
Christie’s Rare Watches auction returns to Geneva on November 11th at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, following the success of the May sale, which totaled CHF 23 million. This season’s auction will feature rare and iconic models from Rolex, Patek Philippe, F.P. Journe, Cartier, and others, curated for discerning collectors. A special section will benefit the European Leukodystrophy Association (ELA), with eleven renowned brands, including Andersen Genève x BCHH, Bovet, Richard Mille, and Ulysse Nardin, donating timepieces to support research into leukodystrophies and assist affected families. For more information, please visit the Christie’s website.
About Christie’s
Founded in 1766, Christie’s is a world-leading art and luxury business with a presence in 46 countries throughout the Americas, Europe, Middle East, and Asia Pacific, and flagship international sales hubs in New York, London, Hong Kong, Paris and Geneva. Renowned and trusted for our expert live and online-only auctions, as well as bespoke Private Sales, Christie’s unparalleled network of specialists offers our clients a full portfolio of global services, including art appraisal, art financing, international real estate and education. Christie’s auctions span more than 70 art and luxury categories, at price points ranging from $500 to over $100 million. Christie’s has sold 7 of the 10 most important single-owner collections in history, achieved the world record price for an artwork at auction, launched the first fully on-chain auction platform dedicated to exceptional NFT art and manages an investment fund to support innovative startups in the art market. Christie’s is also committed to advancing responsible culture throughout its business and communities worldwide. To learn more, browse, bid, discover, and join us for the best of art and luxury at christies.com or by downloading Christie’s apps.
* Please note when quoting estimates above that other fees will apply in addition to the hammer price – see Section D of the Conditions of Sale at the back of the sale catalogue.
*Estimates do not include buyer’s premium. Sales totals are hammer price plus buyer’s premium.