This year, IWC boldly shown their continuous push of boundaries of sophistication and elegance. Unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva, the new Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night (Ref. IW545901) is yet another testament to IWC’s engineering genius and dedication to premium watchmaking. Even if a bit shadowed by the magnificent Eternal Calendar, this exquisite timepiece merges traditional craftsmanship with innovative design elements, catering to the connoisseur who appreciates both the art and science of fine watches.
A Case of Armor Gold® Elegance
At the heart of this luxurious timepiece is its 18-carat Armor Gold® case. The refined blend of polished and brushed finishes reveals IWC‘s commitment to delivering a product that is as beautiful as it is durable. Armor Gold® stands out due to its enhanced microstructure, offering greater hardness and wear resistance than conventional 5N gold. With a case diameter of 42.4 mm and a height of 10.8 mm, the watch offers a contemporary size that comfortably fits a variety of wrist sizes while maintaining a classic aesthetic. The sapphire glass, protected by an antireflective coating on both sides, ensures clarity and visual pleasure, presenting an undistorted view of the dial and movement.
The Depths of the Obsidian Dial
The Obsidian lacquered dial is a visual symphony of depth and contrast. Its finish sunrayed complements the gold-plated hands and appliques exquisitely. At 6 o’clock lies the flying minute tourbillon, a hallmark of fine watchmaking, elegantly showcased in its delicate, rotating dance. Moving to the 9 o’clock position, the globe-shaped day and night indicator draws the eye with its celestial motif. This rotating sphere, with its vivid depiction of the endless cycle of day and night, celebrates the ingenuity and creativity that IWC nurtures in its engineering team. Both elements perfectly balance the dial, integrating functionality with beauty.
The Heart of the Timepiece: Calibre 81925
Underneath the dial beats the IWC-manufactured calibre 81925, a testament to the brand’s legendary expertise in movement craftsmanship. With a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and a power reserve of 84 hours, this hand-wound mechanism promises precision and longevity. The intricate architecture of the 56-part tourbillon, weighing a mere 0.675 grams, showcases masterful engineering. The tourbillon’s continuous rotation minimizes the impact of gravity on the escapement’s oscillations, enhancing accuracy. The use of Diamond Shell® technology, applied to the silicon pallet lever and escape wheel, reduces friction and optimizes energy flow within the movement.
The calibre’s aesthetic allure is further heightened by circular Geneva stripes and a partly skeletonized gold-plated base plate, visible through the see-through sapphire glass back. Each component is meticulously finished, a labor of love for the artisans at IWC Schaffhausen. The hand-wound movement lacks an oscillating mass, allowing an unobstructed view of the mechanical marvel, an homage to transparency and craftsmanship.
Concluding Thoughts
The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night is a masterpiece that encapsulates the Swiss watchmaker’s devotion to elegance, ingenuity, and the tradition of haute horlogerie. It is an iconic timepiece that elevates the idea of what a contemporary luxury watch can embody. By merging traditional techniques with cutting-edge technology and a genuine love for watchmaking, IWC presents a timeless symbol of sophistication and innovation. For discerning collectors and aficionados alike, this timepiece combines the elegance of the Portuguiser collection with technical innovation in a subtle, yet visible piece.
IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night Technical Specifications
Ref. IW545901 – CHF 80’000 / $79,300 / 86.000 € / £66,500 / S$ 110,000 / ¥12,127,500
Features
- Mechanical movement
- Flying hacking minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock
- Day & Night indication in the shape of a globe at 9 o’clock
- See-through sapphire glass back
Movement
- IWC-manufactured calibre 81925
- Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz
- Jewels: 22
- Power reserve: 84 h
- Winding: Hand-Wound
Case
- 18-carat Armor Gold® case
- Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
- Water-resistant 6 bar
- Diameter 42.4 mm
- Height 10.8 mm
Dial
- Obsidian lacquered dial
- Gold-plated hands and gold appliques
Strap & Buckle
- Curved black alligator leather strap from Santoni
- 18-carat Armor Gold® folding clasp