Christie’s Watches: High Jewellery Meets Rare Haute Horologerie @The Dubai Edit online sale

Dubai – Christie’s announces its seasonal Watches Online: The Dubai Edit comprising 124 lots, a bespoke Middle Eastern horology sale curated by the longstanding Dubai-based Christie’s team of three specialists, representing men’s and women’s timepieces, catering for dedicated and new collectors seeking rare vintage or modern timepieces in the secondary luxury market.   The online sale goes live for browsing on 14 November and will be live for bidding between 20 – 28 November.

A Trove of Feminine Treasures

Leading the sale is a limited edition, rare Richard Mille RM71-02 ‘Grace’ (illustrated above left), a spectacular gem-set wristwatch in 18k white gold from 2021 (estimate US$500,000-1,000,000). This remarkable watch is part of a collection of ten models, each limited to only seven pieces and named after iconic figures from the 1970s, including singer, model, and actress Grace Jones. (Other models in the series are named after icons such as Bianca Jagger, Carmen D’Alessio, Gloria Gaynor, Paloma Picasso, and Elizabeth Taylor). Adorned with sapphires, diamonds, amethysts, rubies and tsavorites, its semi-skeletonised dial is further enhanced by chrysoprase and opal, showcasing Richard Mille’s dedication to technical innovation and artistic design. The ‘Grace’ is one of four exceptional Richard Mille masterpieces to be offered in Watches Online: The Dubai Edit this season.

Cartier Imperial Tiger cuff is a unique 18k rose gold and black lacquer cuff watch set with 655 orange-coloured diamonds, 590 white diamonds, 195 yellow diamonds, 76 pale yellow diamonds and 24 brown diamonds arranged in a stunning tiger motif.  Alongside the panther, the totem animal in Cartier’s jewellery, the tiger figures as an emblematic feline in the Maison’s bestiary. This spectacular high-jewellery watch, a masterpiece of horological creativity, has never been offered at auction before and dates from  circa 2018 (estimate US$250,000-450,000).

From the same collection as the Cartier cuff, this extraordinary Bvlgari Serpenti Misteriosi is an 18k white gold and malachite cuff watch where the serpent’s head lifts to reveal the hidden timepiece. The dial is set with 82 diamonds, and the case and bracelet with 1,192 round brilliant diamonds. This piece of high jewellery pays homage to the cuffs worn by women in ancient Rome and is fitted with a hidden spring system. The Roman jeweller’s talismanic serpent appears to slither around a cuff fitted with a special system of tiny hidden springs (estimated US$150,000-250,000).

Vintage Rarities with History

Christie’s Watches Online: The Dubai Edit sale is renowned for bringing together some of the most desirable and historically significant timepieces. This season’s auction is no exception, with a highly curated selection of coveted references.

Breguet 1262, is a notably rare example of a jump-hour wristwatch from the Art Deco period. This vintage timepiece, crafted from Osmior (an alloy with a platinum-like hue before white gold was available), showcases Breguet’s innovative approach to time display and horological mastery. According to Breguet’s heritage department, the watch was produced in 1926 and sold on January 18, 1928. A throwback to a bygone era, it is believed that Breguet only produced approximately 50 jump-hour watches in the last century, thus making this a highly desirable lot for the most discerning of collectors (estimate US$40,000-60,000).

Rolex GMT-Master 1675, a rare stainless steel model, features a black dial signed by His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the ruler of Dubai, in red Arabic script.  Watches sporting only his signature are among the scarcest versions of these personalised timepieces found more commonly in combination with the United Arab Emirates crest. A highlight for the connoisseur of rare timepieces, this GMT-Master is further preserved in extremely appealing original condition, dating from circa 1978 (estimate US$80,000-120,000).

Complications Curated for Collectors

As a preview of the exceptional timepieces that demonstrate the discerning taste of collectors in the region, further highlights include:

Patek Philippe 5004R-014, a highly sought-after perpetual calendar wristwatch. This reference features a combination of a pink gold case and a distinct black dial with pink gold Arabic numerals – which would have been added as a bespoke request. Only 12 examples were created per year due to the immense technical complexity. Reference 5004 is regarded as one of the great modern classics among Patek Philippe’s high-complication creations. In production between 1994 and 2010, the first series of watches commenced with movement no. 879’501, while the present watch is an early example with movement no. 879’856 from circa 2002 (estimate US$300,000-500,000).

Patek Philippe 5078G-010, a rare white gold minute repeating watch with a black grand feu enamel dial. This is only the second example of this reference with the black ‘arabesque’ dial to be offered at public auction. A highly collectable example of Patek Philippe’s most significant complication, minute repeaters are known worldwide for their outstanding acoustic performance and clarity of sound. The automatic reference 5078 is also one of the rarest and will be offered with a full set of accessories. Circa 2021 (estimate US$300,000-500,000).

Remy Julia, Head of Watches, Christie’s Middle East, India & Africa, comments, ‘The Middle East watch market is driven by a passionate community of collectors who appreciate horological excellence and rarity. The Dubai Edit bi-annual auctions are a testament to continued interest and demand in the region. The Dubai horology team is proud to have curated a fine array of extremely rare to-market wonders, from Breguet’s ref. 1262 dating 1926, to Richard Mille’s RM 71-02, the sale showcases nearly 100 years of horological history and superiority.’

Nitin Nair, Christie’s Associate Director and Watch Specialist, adds: ‘This edition of Watches Online: The Dubai Edit is the most tightly curated sale we have had in recent years. It captures several regional market trends, including the rise of female collectors drawn to the artistry and craftsmanship of gem-set and jewelled timepieces. As in the past few years, we also see a very strong continued demand for Patek Philippe and Rolex, as well as for rare references that remain highly sought-after by connoisseurs in the region. Notably the sale includes interesting watches that will appeal to new collectors with estimates starting from US$1,000 to the rare high-value classics’.

Watches Online: The Dubai Edit will be on view at Christie’s Middle East in the DIFC, Dubai from 20 -28 November. For opening hours please see www.christies.com.

The sale is live for browsing from 14 November and live for bidding from 20 – 29 November.
Estimates range from US$1,000 – US$500,000

About Christie’s
Founded in 1766, Christie’s is a world-leading art and luxury business with a physical presence in 46 countries throughout the Americas, Europe, Middle East, and Asia Pacific, and flagship international sales hubs in New York, London, Hong Kong, Paris and Geneva. Renowned and trusted for our expert live and online-only auctions, as well as bespoke Private Sales, Christie’s unparalleled network of specialists offers our clients a full portfolio of global services, including art appraisal, art financing, international real estate and education. Christie’s auctions span more than 80 art and luxury categories, at price points ranging from $500 to over $100 million. Christie’s has sold 7 of the 10 most important single-owner collections in history, achieved the world record price for an artwork at auction, launched the first fully on-chain auction platform dedicated to exceptional NFT art and manages an investment fund to support innovative startups in the art market. Christie’s is also committed to advancing responsible culture throughout its business and communities worldwide. To learn more, browse, bid, discover, and join us for the best of art and luxury at christies.com or by downloading Christie’s apps. 

* Please note when quoting estimates above that other fees will apply in addition to the hammer price – see Section D of the Conditions of Sale at the back of the sale catalogue.  *Estimates do not include buyer’s premium. Sales totals are hammer price plus buyer’s premium.