The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is one of the most prestigious awards in the world of haute horlogerie. It has been celebrating excellence, innovation, and artistry in watchmaking since its inception in 2001. Often referred to as the “Oscars of watchmaking,” the GPHG showcases the finest creations in the industry while promoting the art and science of horology on a global scale. Let’s have a look at and talk about GPHG 2024 favourites.
Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève
Founding and Early Years (2001–2005)
The GPHG was established in 2001 by the Fondation du Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, with the support of public and private institutions, including the City and Canton of Geneva. The objective was simple but ambitious: to create a platform that would honour exceptional achievements in watchmaking while bringing together both traditional Swiss maisons and independent watchmakers.
- The inaugural event in 2001 set the tone, awarding the first “Aiguille d’Or” (Golden Hand) to Patek Philippe’s Star Caliber 2000, a masterpiece that underscored the craftsmanship and complexity of the art.
- The early years saw a strong focus on Swiss brands, but the GPHG’s international outlook began to grow as the global influence of watchmaking expanded.
The Expansion and Recognition Era (2006–2012)
During this period, the GPHG began to refine its award categories and expand its reach beyond Switzerland. The foundation introduced new prizes to celebrate the diversity of watchmaking, including categories for ladies’, men’s, and complications watches.
- In 2008, the “Public Prize” was introduced, allowing enthusiasts and collectors worldwide to participate in the awards by voting for their favourite watches.
- By 2010, the GPHG had firmly established itself as a global event, with travelling exhibitions of nominated timepieces making stops in major cities like New York, Hong Kong, Dubai, and Paris.
This era also saw the rise of independent watchmakers, with brands like MB&F and Greubel Forsey gaining recognition alongside stalwarts like Rolex and Audemars Piguet.
Innovation and Globalization (2013–2019)
The GPHG entered a phase of significant evolution, reflecting the dynamic changes in the watch industry. Key developments included:
- New Categories: Awards like the “Mechanical Exception Prize” and the “Challenge Prize” were added to honour technical innovation and affordability.
- Increased International Participation: The awards began to feature more non-Swiss brands, recognizing the contributions of Japanese, German, and other international watchmakers.
- A New Trophy Design: In 2015, the iconic “Aiguille d’Or” trophy was redesigned, symbolizing the modern yet timeless nature of the event.
During these years, the GPHG became a crucial barometer for industry trends, highlighting the rise of microbrands and the growing importance of sustainability and ethical watchmaking practices.
Modernization and Digital Evolution (2020–Present)
The global pandemic in 2020 forced the GPHG to adapt rapidly, embracing digital technology to maintain its influence:
- Virtual Exhibitions: With physical travel restricted, the GPHG hosted virtual showcases, making the event accessible to a broader audience.
- Diverse Jury: In recent years, there has been a deliberate effort to include more diverse voices on the GPHG jury, including collectors, journalists, and watchmakers from various regions and backgrounds.
- Sustainability Focus: Sustainability has become a recurring theme, with brands like Chopard and Oris receiving accolades for their eco-friendly initiatives.
In 2021, the GPHG celebrated its 20th anniversary, underscoring two decades of excellence with an expanded lineup of categories and a stunning array of nominees.
Categories and Notable Awards
The GPHG has evolved to feature over 15 award categories, including:
- Aiguille d’Or Grand Prize: The most coveted honor, recognizing the overall best watch of the year.
- Ladies’ and Ladies’ Complication: Celebrating design and technical ingenuity in women’s watches.
- Men’s and Men’s Complication: Honoring groundbreaking innovation in men’s timepieces.
- Iconic Prize: For watches that have had a lasting impact on horological history.
- Audacity Prize: Awarded for bold, unconventional designs.
Cultural Impact
The GPHG has played a critical role in shaping modern watchmaking. By recognizing excellence across a wide spectrum of horology, it has encouraged innovation while honouring tradition. The travelling exhibitions have introduced countless individuals to the beauty of mechanical watchmaking, fostering a global community of enthusiasts. This year, the nominated watches will arrive in my home country, Romania, for the first time in that part of Europe.
In many ways, the GPHG reflects the evolution of the watch industry itself, standing as a testament to the artistry, precision, and enduring appeal of fine timepieces.
Favourites by category
Being a part of the GPHG Academy is an everyday joy for me ( I am proud of it and it brings a smile to my face every time I remember it). I am forever grateful to the people who made this possible – Thank you! You know who you are…
I take it seriously! I am trying to propose as many interesting pieces as possible but my final vote will always reflect my favourites. Some of you already know that I have a tendency towards independent brands. But what I am searching for is craftsmanship, beyond names.
So let’s have a look at each category and debate technicity and beauty. Just the favourites…
Ladies’
- Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Night Tide
- Chopard Alpine Eagle 33
- Fabergé Colours of Love Rose Gold Rainbow Gemstone Watch
- Hermès Hermès Cut
- Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Diamonds Set
- Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Jour Nuit
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Night Tide
Moonphase is my favourite poetic complication. While these days the influence of the Moon is not so prominent in our artificial light environment, it is still there for some people. Perpetual Moon 38 Night Tide is a magnificent display of the night goddess. A superb combination of materials and a multitude of diamonds make this watch a personal favourite and a guilty pleasure.
After careful consideration, I chose the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Night Tide as my absolute favourite in this category.
Ladies’ Complication
- ANDERSEN Genève Sakura ANDERSEN Genève X BCHH
- Chaumet Swing
- Fabergé Compliquée Butterfly Blooms Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
- Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours Sakura
- Trilobe The Exquisite Hour Secret – Unique Piece
- Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été
The Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été is a stunning timepiece from the renowned French luxury jewelry and watchmaking brand, Van Cleef & Arpels. Known for its exquisite craftsmanship, rich history, and dedication to artistic expression, Van Cleef & Arpels creates watches that are as much about storytelling and design as they are about horological precision. The Lady Arpels Brise d’Été is a perfect example of this, offering a harmonious blend of delicate aesthetics, mechanical sophistication, and nature-inspired beauty. The Brise d’Été (which translates to “Summer Breeze”) is inspired by the gentle, fleeting beauty of nature, specifically the sensation of a light breeze on a warm summer’s day. The design evokes the soft, soothing movement of air, and this is reflected in the flowing, fluid motifs of the watch.
The dial of the watch is a true work of art, featuring intricate details that capture the essence of a breeze in motion. It is decorated with hand-painted flowers, delicate butterflies, or swirling patterns, which seem to float across the surface of the dial, creating a sense of lightness and movement.
One of the standout features of the Lady Arpels Brise d’Été is the iridescent nature of the dial. The background may feature mother-of-pearl, which gives the piece a soft, luminous glow, enhancing the feeling of a breezy, dreamlike scene. The intricate craftsmanship is also seen in the application of enamel work and gemstone accents that elevate the dial’s visual appeal.
It is hard to compete with this level of detail and mechanical beauty – Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été is by far my most loved piece.
Time Only
- Berneron Mirage Sienna
- Bernhard Lederer 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer
- Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier
- Czapek Goutte d’eau
- H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel
- Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No date
Czapek Goutte d’eau
The Czapek Goutte d’Eau is one of the standout models from the independent Swiss watch brand Czapek & Cie, known for its highly sophisticated and innovative timepieces that celebrate a blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern design. This model is particularly notable for its unique design, exceptional attention to detail, and its tribute to Czapek’s rich horological history. The name Goutte d’Eau translates to “Drop of Water” in French, and it’s a fitting title for a watch that embodies fluidity and harmony in both design and execution. The Goutte d’Eau draws inspiration from nature’s most elemental forms, reflecting the smooth curves and elegant flow of water. The shape of the case, with its flowing lines, evokes the idea of water droplets in motion, a concept that is also represented in the dial’s distinctive guilloché pattern, which mirrors the fluid, organic shapes of water.
This is one of the hardest categories. All of the watches have exceptional details and stand out in their brand’s collections. But there was a particular one that left me minutes long mouth open, and that is Czapek Goutte d’eau.
Men’s
- Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum
- Garrick S3 MK2
- Grand Seiko Manual-winding Hi-Beat 36000
- Hajime Asaoka Tsunami “Art Deco”
- Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Platinum
- Voutilainen KV20i Reversed
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Platinum
The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Platinum is a prestigious and refined timepiece from Parmigiani Fleurier, a Swiss watchmaker known for its artisanal craftsmanship, technical innovation, and high-quality movements. The Toric collection, first introduced in 1996, is one of the brand’s flagship lines and is inspired by the geometric shapes and architectural harmony of the golden ratio. The Toric Petite Seconde Platinum is a perfect example of Parmigiani’s commitment to luxury, craftsmanship, and elegance. It embodies the brand’s philosophy of blending haute horology with artistic design. The platinum case adds an additional layer of luxury, giving the watch a refined and weighty feel while enhancing its prestige. The elegant dial, with its sub-seconds complication, delivers a harmonious visual experience, while the in-house PF780 movement ensures top-tier performance and reliability. This watch is for those who appreciate exceptional craftsmanship, unique design, and luxury materials, making it a fitting choice for connoisseurs of fine timepieces. Its blend of classical aesthetics with modern watchmaking techniques makes the Toric Petite Seconde Platinum an enduring piece that is not only a functional tool but also a beautiful piece of art on the wrist.
It is hard not to fall in love with the new Toric collection. Although there are some strong contendents in this category, I go with the one that I would wear any day, anytime, the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Platinum.
Men’s Complication
- ArtyA Purity Central Tourbillon Blue
- Byrne Meca
- Chopard L.U.C Strike One
- De Bethune DB Kind Of Grande Complication
- Franck Muller Long Island Evolution Master Jumper
- Kazuo Maeda Heures Universelles
De Bethune DB Kind Of Grande Complication
The De Bethune DB Kind of Grande Complication is a striking and sophisticated timepiece that combines high-end watchmaking craftsmanship with innovative design. It represents De Bethune’s ability to push the boundaries of traditional horology, blending exceptional technical complexity with avant-garde aesthetics. The DB Kind of Grande Complication features a highly intricate movement, showcasing De Bethune’s signature engineering prowess. At its heart is a hand-wound mechanical movement that combines multiple complications—such as a minute repeater, a tourbillon, and a perpetual calendar—all seamlessly integrated.
I feel that in this category, although with interesting pieces taken individually, there is a clear winner – the DB Kind Of Grande Complication: not just the complications but the fantastic visual implementation. Just look at the starry sky…
Iconic
- Breitling Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute
- Hublot Classic Fusion Original Yellow Gold 29 mm
- IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler
- Louis Vuitton Tambour
- Piaget Piaget Polo 79
- Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded
Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded
The Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded is a distinctive and avant-garde timepiece from the Swiss watchmaker Urwerk, known for its unique, futuristic designs and innovative complications. The UR-102 Reloaded represents a modern reinterpretation of one of Urwerk’s earliest models blending the brand’s signature design language with contemporary technology and materials. The UR-102 Reloaded is a tribute to the original UR-102, which was first released in the early 2000s. The original was notable for its unconventional time display and minimalist design. The Reloaded version brings an updated look while retaining the core concepts, adding a fresh perspective on the original concept, and showcasing Urwerk’s evolution in design.
In a category with avant-garde pieces but all (with an exception) with a classical time display, the UR-102 stands out – like any other Urwerk wristwatch. Although I consider the entire category a collection of masterpieces, my heart keens heavily towards the independent.
Tourbillon
- Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon
- Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
- H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton
- Rémy Cools Tourbillon Atelier
- Sartory Billard SB06-24HM “La Nuit”
- Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary
Sartory Billard SB06-24HM “La Nuit”
I have to say a big BRAVO to Armand for this fantastic achievement. Congrats my dear friend!
The Sartory Billard SB06-24HM “La Nuit” is a remarkable example of haute horlogerie, combining artistry, innovation, and technical mastery. It is part of Sartory Billard’s SB06 collection, showcasing their first in-house movement, the SBTV01, which is meticulously crafted and finished by Philippe Narbel, a renowned artisan in the watchmaking world. The SB06-24HM features a unique hour hand with sun and moon indicators to distinguish day and night. The hour hand completes one full rotation every 24 hours, made possible by an additional gear module under the dial. A minute hand ensures precise timekeeping. The central dial features a detailed moon engraving, created using data from NASA’s Lunar Reconnaissance Orbiter, offering an intricate and lifelike representation of lunar topography. Surrounding this is a shimmering aventurine glass outer ring, enhancing its celestial theme.
It is a heavy category with heavy names. But what a joy it will be to have Sartory Billard winning this section. Diana and I have known Armand and Sartory Billard pieces for several years and I am happy to see the evolution. In my heart a clear winner!
Calendar and Astronomy
- Anton Suhanov Chronotope
- Frédérique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Designed by Peter Speake
- H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Chinese Calendar
- IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar
- Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver
- Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar
The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar is a flagship model that beautifully combines technical mastery and timeless design. It is a hallmark of haute horlogerie, featuring one of watchmaking’s most prestigious complications: the perpetual calendar. Thanks to a newly engineered 400-year gear, which completes just one revolution every four centuries, the calendar will skip three leap years over 400 years – an event that will take place in the year 2100 for the first time. The eternal calendar will calculate the leap year correctly until at least 3999, as no official decision has been taken yet as to whether 4000 will be a leap year.
Interesting pieces some with very original interpretation in displaying the information. But nobody can be surprised by having the Eternal Calendar as a winner. A classic look and a bold mechanical movement that would outlive us and maybe out civilisation as we know it.
Mechanical Exception
- Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1
- Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC
- Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé
- MB&F HM11 Architect
- Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon
- Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad
Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé
This remarkable timepiece combines classic Hermès design with exceptional technical complexity, including a triple-axis tourbillon and a minute repeater. The Arceau Duc Attelé stands out for its refined aesthetics and the fusion of traditional craftsmanship with innovative watchmaking. With a price of approximately $401,400, it is a testament to Hermès’ commitment to excellence in both design and mechanical artistry.
After a show like Watches & Wonders, I have to take a moment and remember all the pieces that I have seen. But Duc Attelé was one of my favourites and I am impressed by it. What a sound, what machine, what a beauty…
Chronograph
- Angelus Instrument de Vitesse
- Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie
- Massena Lab Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena Lab
- Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Split Seconds Chronograph
- TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph
- Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar
Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie
The Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie is a groundbreaking collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Rexhep Rexhepi of Atelier Akrivia, blending high fashion and haute horlogerie. Limited to just 10 pieces, this watch represents the first in a planned series of collaborations between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmakers. A reinterpretation of Louis Vuitton’s Tambour case, crafted in platinum, with a compact 39.9mm diameter and a tall 12.2mm profile. The brushed surfaces are accented by polished chamfered edges, exuding both luxury and precision. The case design was overseen by master case maker Jean-Pierre Hagmann. The front features a smoked sapphire crystal dial with subtle Louis Vuitton motifs, while the reverse offers a traditional white enamel dial, representing a fusion of modern and classical aesthetics. The in-house movement by Atelier Akrivia integrates a chronograph, a tourbillon, and a sonnerie. The chiming mechanism strikes once per minute during chronograph operation, powered by a secondary gear train and barrel to ensure consistent timekeeping. A five-minute tourbillon, inspired by historical pocket watches, highlights Rexhepi’s commitment to classical watchmaking. The chronograph is a monopusher system controlled at 2 o’clock, with the added acoustic element marking elapsed minutes.
What a feast of senses, what a magnificent collaboration – Chronographe à Sonnerie, a spectacular piece that it is hard to surpass by the traditional chronos, even if spectacular…
Sports
- IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One™ Team
- MING 37.09 Bluefin
- Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph
- Singer Reimagined Divetrack
- Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono”Cycling Edition”
- Zenith Defy Extreme Diver
Singer Reimagined Divetrack
The Singer Reimagined Divetrack is a groundbreaking dive watch, reimagining traditional dive chronographs with a unique focus on functionality before, during, and after a dive. This limited-edition piece, produced in only 25 units, merges technical innovation with exceptional craftsmanship.
Key features include a Central 24-hour Chronograph: Instead of conventional time displays, the central chronograph tracks elapsed time in seconds, minutes, and hours. This is ideal for divers to monitor decompression stops and surface intervals; Peripheral Time Display: The current time is shown on a sapphire band around the case, viewed through a small luminous triangle at the 6 o’clock position; Segmented Chronograph Zones: The dial features three segments—Chill, Dive, and Fly—to indicate surface intervals, safe dive times, and when it’s safe to fly after diving, aligning with PADI safety guidelines; Robust Design: Crafted from Grade 5 titanium with a sandwich-style case, it measures 49mm wide and 19.67mm thick, ensuring durability and water resistance to 300 meters.
Maybe the most complete mechanical diver watch ever made? I am not a diver and I am not familiar with all the needs of a professional diver. But as someone who loves water, this Singer Reimagined Divetrack is life-changing…
Jewellery
- Bvlgari Fenice High-Jewelry secret watch
- Chopard Laguna High-Jewellery Secret Watch
- Damiani Margherita Desert Garden Secret Watch
- Dior Montres Grand Soir Reine des Abeilles
- Gucci G-Timeless Planetarium
- Piaget Aura High Jewellery watch
Chopard Laguna High-Jewellery Secret Watch
The Chopard Laguna High-Jewellery Secret Watch is a masterpiece of haute horlogerie and high jewellery. Designed to merge exquisite craftsmanship with exceptional artistry, this secret watch reflects Chopard’s commitment to blending luxury timekeeping with spectacular gem-setting techniques. The watch incorporates a hidden dial, a hallmark of secret watches, camouflaged amidst a breathtaking array of jewels. While specific details about the Laguna’s gemstone arrangement and movement are limited, its nomination in the high-jewelry category underscores its role as a showcase for gem-setting expertise and creative innovation
I have never seen a more beautiful watch that is able to catch the splendour of the waters as Laguna does. Mindblown by all the small details and colours…
Artistic Crafts
- ANDERSEN Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone
- Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Year of the Dragon
- Hermès Arceau Chorus Stellarum
- Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders Snake’s Jungle
- Piaget Glowing Weave watch
- Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté
ANDERSEN Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone
The ANDERSEN Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone is a stunning example of minimalist and artisanal watchmaking. This timepiece combines the elegance of platinum and pink gold with the rare and luxurious material of black jade. Crafted from Platinum Pt950, the 38mm case features satin-brushed flanks and polished lugs, a traditional touch where lugs are separately constructed and welded. The pink gold crown complements the design beautifully. The dial is a seamless, mirror-polished black jade stone, with a jumping hour display at 12 o’clock and a pink gold minute hand on a sub-dial at 6 o’clock. A pink gold railway-style chapter ring and logo complete the aesthetic. Powered by the Frédéric Piguet 11.50 calibre, this automatic movement boasts a 70-hour power reserve with an in-house jumping hour module. It’s decorated with an 18k pink gold guilloché rotor and features a ring of 21ct BlueGold, a heat-treated gold alloy exclusive to ANDERSEN Genève.
A subtle elegance and a perfect example of less is more – the ANDERSEN Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone stands out in the most positive way. I love it!
“Petite Aiguille”
- Amida Take Off Edition
- Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Ariadne
- Frédérique Constant Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture seconde/seconde/
- Furlan Marri Perpetual One
- KUDOKE 3 Salmon
- Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
Amida Take Off Edition
The Amida Digitrend Take-Off Edition is a contemporary revival of the cult-classic Amida Digitrend, first introduced in 1976. This unique timepiece retains the distinctive design of its predecessor while incorporating modern advancements. Its standout feature is the Light Reflecting Display (LRD), which uses a sapphire prism to display the time vertically, mimicking the retro-futuristic aesthetic of 1970s driver’s watches.
Why not have fun, why not choose the most crazy love? How many of us will set aside traditions for something new and interesting? Bold and daring, made to turn heads and create fiery passions. For me, the Amida Take Off Edition is a winner.
Challenge
- Beaubleu Seconde Française
- Christopher Ward London C1 Moonphase
- Furlan Marri Disco Verde
- kollokium Projekt 01
- Otsuka Lotec No.6
- Spaceone Tellurium
Spaceone Tellurium
The SpaceOne Tellurium is an extraordinary timepiece designed as a miniature orrery, showcasing the movements of the Earth and Moon around the Sun with stunning precision. Encased in a futuristic-grade 5 titanium case, the watch is 50mm long, 42mm wide, and 16mm thick, capped with a domed sapphire crystal. Its aventurine glass dial serves as a celestial backdrop, adorned with polished titanium stars and featuring glowing hour and minute hands for enhanced legibility. The heart of the watch is the patented Tellurium complication module integrated with a Soprod P024 automatic movement, offering a power reserve of 38 hours. This module accurately displays Earth’s year-long orbit and the Moon’s 29.5-day cycle, complemented by a date and month indicator at 6 o’clock.
When you are familiar with the world of watches and the price to innovate and produce interesting pieces is a heavy fight, a watch like Spaceone Tellurium will leave you open-mouth, especially when you hear the price – 2’900 CHF. Hands down the most interesting watch ever in its price category.
Which one is your favourite? Don’t forget to come back on Wednesday to have a look at the live transmission. Or looking forward to seeing you in Geneva.