This new collection combines the attractions of a clean design with the mechanical complexity of fine watchmaking. Because Richard Mille connoisseurs are fascinated by the brand’s signature watchmaking techniques, the new RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire timepieces remain faithful to the first iteration, whose movement could be admired from every angle through a coloured sapphire prism.
It was back in 2015 that Richard Mille boldly chose to design watches with cases made entirely of coloured sapphire. The RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire collection has been enriched with four versions – including one in lilac, a brand-new shade – and new interpretations of the gem-set dial.
At the heart of this crystalline cocoon is an intriguing and attractive dial that draws the eye with perfectly symmetrical geometric shapes and refined aesthetics. This central graphic design is a testament to the art of the master gem-setter. The stones adorning this watch catch the light to enhance every facet of the sapphire case, decorating the dial, bezel and flange. A cabochon also embellishes the crown. Here, precious stones, including dazzling diamonds, hypnotic blue sapphires and vibrant yellow sapphires, are combined with ornamental stones such as orange spessartite, white agate or opal, and various shades of green tsavorite, chrysoprase and malachite.
Behind the sumptuous visual harmony of this piece lies great ingenuity. Protected by its sapphire case, the CRMA5 in-house skeletonised automatic movement, displaying the hours and minutes, is wound by a variable-geometry rotor making it possible to configure the winding of the movement to the activity of the wearer by adjusting two small weights. This compact calibre has a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The baseplate and bridges – crafted from either red or white gold depending on the version – are micro-blasted and chamfered by hand. The red gold oscillating weight is set with diamonds for an even more precious result.
The use of sapphire at Richard Mille involves major constraints and unique expertise. The brand’s iconic tonneau-shaped case is especially difficult to craft because of its curved lines, which render it particularly ergonomic and comfortable to wear. However, working with these curves demands additional time at every stage of the creative process, from pre-production to production itself and finishing. Sapphire will not tolerate even the slightest approximation, particularly during cutting. Its chemical composition gives it an exceptional score of 9 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness, just behind diamond, which tops the list. Creating a case of this quality requires over 1,000 hours of machining, of which 430 hours devoted to preforming the case parts and 350 hours reserved for polishing the entire case. The front and rear bezels also receive an anti-reflective coating to guarantee optimal visual properties.
Producing coloured sapphires involves a process that is even more complex than for transparent sapphire: these stones are created by carefully incorporating metal oxides into the material’s crystalline lattice. However, a coloured crystal is more sensitive to the heating and growth process than its colourless counterpart. Developing a new shade like lilac therefore involves a multitude of trials before the exact shade can be approved.
Setting gems into this particular material is a true feat of engineering, as a laser is required to perform the mitraillage, that is drilling holes for the stones. This must be accurate to the nearest micron. Prongs in hand-polished gold, made separately, are then inserted, creating the multiple settings that hold a graceful row of diamonds.
This new collection is the result of an uncompromising quest to combine refinement with technical skill. The Richard Mille RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire is limited to seven timepieces for each of the four versions: gem-set pink sapphire, lilac sapphire, green sapphire and gem-set green sapphire.
