At Watches & Wonders 2024, Chopard unveiled a timepiece that transcends the conventional boundaries of haute horlogerie: the L.U.C Full Strike Ref. 168604-3002. This isn’t merely a watch; it’s an orchestration of light, sound, and material science. Following the ethereal “Sound of Eternity” limited editions, crafted in ethical gold, sapphire, platinum, and hardened steel, Chopard has now channelled its acoustic mastery into a bold, modern iteration. The Full Strike Ref. 168604-3002 marries the purity of a patented minute repeater movement with a case forged from anthracite ceramicised titanium, a material as technically intriguing as it is visually arresting. Limited to 20 pieces and bearing the coveted Poinçon de Genève, this watch is a manifesto of Chopard’s relentless pursuit of innovation.
A Brief History of Chopard L.U.C: Where Tradition Meets Avant-Garde
To understand the significance of the Full Strike, one must first appreciate the legacy of Chopard’s L.U.C line. Launched in 1996 to honour founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C collection embodies the pinnacle of the brand’s technical and artistic ethos. From the groundbreaking L.U.C 1860 (the brand’s first in-house movement) to the ultra-thin Quattro calibres and the 2017 Strike One, Chopard’s inaugural minute repeater, the L.U.C lineage has consistently redefined mechanical watchmaking.
The Full Strike, introduced in 2017, marked a watershed moment. It was not just Chopard’s first-minute repeater but one of the first in history to feature monobloc sapphire crystal gongs, a radical departure from traditional metal alloys. This innovation earned it multiple awards, including the “Aiguille d’Or” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The 2024 iteration builds on this legacy, proving that Chopard’s acoustic ambitions are far from muted.
Anthracite Ceramicised Titanium – A Material Revolution
The Full Strike Ref. 168604-3002’s case is a masterclass in material innovation. Measuring 42.50 mm in diameter and 11.55 mm thick, it strikes a balance between wrist presence and ergonomic refinement. But the true marvel lies in its composition: anthracite ceramicised titanium.
What Is Ceramicised Titanium?
This hybrid material begins with Grade 5 titanium, prized for its lightness (45% lighter than steel) and hypoallergenic properties. Through a proprietary plasma electrolytic oxidation (PEO) process, the surface is transformed into a ceramic layer. The result? A case that combines titanium’s resilience with ceramic’s scratch resistance (1,500–2,000 Vickers hardness vs. 300–400 for steel). The anthracite hue, reminiscent of storm clouds, adds a brooding, technical aesthetic, while the matte finish diffuses light softly, avoiding the ostentation of polished metals.
Acoustic Engineering
For a minute repeater, the case isn’t just a container; it’s an amplifier. Titanium’s natural acoustic properties (lower density than steel or gold) allow soundwaves to propagate with minimal dampening. However, the ceramic’s rigidity could theoretically hinder resonance. Chopard’s engineers counteracted this by optimizing the case’s internal geometry and thickness, ensuring the sapphire gongs’ crystalline tones project clearly. The result is a chime that’s louder (by 10–15 dB) and richer in harmonics compared to traditional precious metal cases.
Verdigris Elegance Meets Meticulous Craftsmanship
Beneath the anti-reflective sapphire crystal lies a dial that evokes the patina of aged copper, a verdigris hue achieved through a multi-step galvanic treatment. This isn’t mere colour – it’s a textural narrative.
Frosting & Velvet
The centre of the dial finely frosted contrasts elegantly with the velvet-finish chapter ring and the circular pattern of the small seconds sub-dial, creating a subtle distinction between areas, while its granular texture echoes the case’s matte finish. The interplay of finishes ensures legibility while adding depth to the verdigris canvas.
Functional Minimalism
Chopard resists the temptation to overcrowd the dial. The matt metallic black Dauphine fusée hands (a signature L.U.C touch) glide over applied matt metallic indices. At 6 o’clock, a small seconds subdial, adorned with concentric circles, provides a counterpoint to the acoustic focus. Notably, present are power reserve indicators and the cartoush branding; the Full Strike’s purpose is singular: to celebrate the marriage of time and sound.
Calibre 08.01-L – Where Science Meets Art
At the heart of the Full Strike lies the L.U.C 08.01-L8, a manually wound minute repeater movement that’s as visually stunning as it is technically profound.
Monobloc Sapphire Gongs: A Patent-Worthy Innovation
Traditional minute repeaters use metal gongs (often steel or gold) shaped from wire and tuned to specific frequencies. Chopard’s engineers, however, asked: What if the gongs were made from sapphire?
Crafted from single blocks of synthetic sapphire (Al₂O₃), these gongs are harder (9 on the Mohs scale), more stable, and resistant to oxidation. Their monolithic construction eliminates joints or welds, ensuring vibrational purity. Tuning them required diamond-coated tools and microscopic precision: each gong’s length (38.60 mm) and cross-section (0.35 mm²) are calibrated to produce A4 (440 Hz) and E5 (659 Hz) notes, replicating the Westminster chimes.
Acoustic Synergy with the Case
The sapphire gongs’ high-frequency vibrations interact uniquely with the ceramicised titanium case. Titanium’s low density allows the sound to resonate freely, while the ceramic layer filters out high-pitched overtones, resulting in a warmer, more rounded timbre than previous Full Strike models. During testing, Chopard recorded a sound pressure level of 78 dB at 10 cm—audible even in moderately noisy environments.
Poinçon de Genève: The Seal of Excellence
The 08.01-L isn’t just technically brilliant; it’s artistically finished to Geneva Seal standards. Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève striping, bevelled edges polished to mirror shine, polished and bevelled screws heads – every component reflects établissage traditions. The movement’s architecture is deliberately openworked on top, offering a glimpse of the hammers in action.
Chopard’s Ode to the Future
The L.U.C Full Strike 168604-3002 is more than a limited edition, it’s a manifesto. With its ceramicised titanium case, Chopard redefines what a modern minute repeater can be: lighter, harder, and acoustically purer than its predecessors. The verdigris dial, a first for the Full Strike family, bridges horology’s heritage with contemporary design. But the true triumph lies in the sapphire gongs. By replacing metal with crystalline alumina, Chopard hasn’t just innovated, it’s reimagined the very physics of sound in watchmaking. This is a timepiece that appeals equally to the eyes, ears, and intellect. In an era where “innovation” is often reduced to incremental upgrades, the Full Strike 168604-3002 reminds us that true progress demands audacity. Chopard hasn’t just crafted a watch; they’ve composed a symphony. And in doing so, they’ve secured their place at the vanguard of 21st-century horology.
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Ref. 168604-3002 Technical Specifications
Ref. 168604-3002 – is limited to 20 pieces, priced upon request. Available exclusively through Chopard boutiques.
Movement
- MovementL.U.C 08.01-L8
- Type of Winding: hand-wound mechanical movement
- Function: small seconds, hours and minutes, power-reserve indicator
- Complications: Minute Repeater
- Power Reserve: Power Reserve of approximately 60 hours
- Certification(s): Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark
- Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
- Movement DimensionsØ 37.20 mm
- Movement Thickness7.97 mm
- Number of Movement Parts: 533
- Jewels: 63
Case
- Metal: titanium
- Case Diameter: 42.5
- Thickness: 11.55 mm
- Dial: Lacquered grey-green “Verdigris ” colour, finely frosted centre
- Case-Back: see-through sapphire crystal
- Crown Material: titanium
Strap & Buckle
- Buckle Typefolding clasp
- Buckle Material: titanium
- Strap: grey alligator leather strap (soft touch) with hand-sewn matching tones
Chopard
Founded in 1860, Chopard, The Artisan of Emotions, perpetuates the heritage of traditional know-how and ancestral crafts through contemporary and ethical creations.
Cultivating limitless creativity, which enables everyone to find precious objects within Chopard collections that are in tune with their own nature, the Maison takes craftsmanship to peak levels through the work of passionate and experienced artisans. Moreover, since July 2018, the Maison has been the first watch and jewellery maker to use 100% Ethical Gold for the production of all its watches and jewellery.
Today, Chopard is run by the Scheufele family and masters more than 50 professions at its three production sites, where particular attention is paid to internal training and the transmission of know-how.
The Maison lives in step with its prestigious partnerships: a loyal official partner to the Cannes Film Festival since 1998, it has also been the official timekeeper of the legendary Italian 1000 Miglia classic car race since 1988.