The Tenth Anniversary of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud with Chronomètre FB 3SPC

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The philosophy driving Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud since the launch of its first collection in 2015 is far more than merely a tribute to the work of the eponymous master-watchmaker. It transposes into contemporary watchmaking language the quest for excellence and precision of the man who was appointed Master Clockmaker-Mechanic by appointment to the (French) King and Navy. No fewer than nine exclusive calibres and three collections have been presented since 2015: Chronomètre FB 1 with its now iconic octagonal case; the FB 2 collection whose case design reinterprets the shape of marine clocks; as well as the FB 3, which is inspired by the longitude watches designed by Ferdinand Berthoud. To mark the tenth anniversary of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, the iconic FB 3SPC collection with a cylindrical balance-spring has been enriched with a very limited edition of platinum timepieces that can also be set with precious stones.

The nobility of platinum

Making a platinum case as complex as that of the FB 3 collection demonstrates the Maison’s exceptional expertise. More than 30 hours of work are required to machine and finish this 57-part case comprising a total of 57 elements. Polishing platinum is a particularly delicate operation, requiring more effort and patience than for other precious metals. Platinum is a very dense yet extremely malleable metal. Only the most experienced polishers are able to achieve the desired brilliance meeting the Ferdinand Berthoud quality criteria. Unlike gold, platinum cannot be polished by pressing very hard on the metal with a polishing brush. Doing so creates waves or a dull haze on the surface, due to the molecular structure of this noble material whose inalterable nature makes it much sought after by discerning collectors.

A certified award-winning movement

The FB 3SPC collection is the only wristwatch with a variable-inertia balance and a cylindrical balance spring, chronometer-certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and awarded the Chronometry prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2023.

Its mechanical movement is based on a cylindrical balance-spring, an extremely rare horological speciality on which Ferdinand Berthoud himself had worked. It is the result of more than three years of research and development. Positioned at 9 o’clock, the three main escapement components – namely the balance, pallet-lever and escape-wheel – are individualised, distinct and proeminent. This space dedicated to the regulating organ enables one to appreciate how it functions and to see the cylindrical balance-spring beating throughout the three days of the power reserve, including through a large water-resistant porthole in the case middle at 9 o’clock.

Two new movement colours

Thanks to its unique three-dimensional architecture with the mainplate positioned at the heart of the movement and the bridges framing it, Calibre FB-SPC is fully visible through the case-back as well as on the dial side. The way it is decorated thus determines the character of the timepiece, as do the two new pink and black PVD-treated versions – produced in 20-piece limited series – that are joining the FB 3 collection.

The FB 3SPC.3 model features a finely sandblasted salmon pink movement, a velvet-finished silver-toned brass inner bezel ring and dial, along with faceted and diamond-polished blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold hands. The regulating organ bridges visible at 9 o’clock are made of straight-grained natural nickel silver.

Meanwhile, Reference FB 3SPC.3-1 is equipped with a black PVD-treated sandblasted movement, a black-varnished inner bezel and dial, along with 18-carat white gold hands. To accentuate the intensity of the movement’s black hues, the regulating organ bridges and the barrel drum are treated with black rhodium, while the gear trains are white rhodium-treated.

Carefully chosen diamonds

Each of these two references will also be available in a diamond-set version, produced in a five-piece limited edition. Benefiting from Chopard’s expertise, the case, crown and buckle have been subtly reworked to accommodate diamonds of exceptional quality and cut. Each stone is then set with the utmost care to obtain a particularly elegant setting of 77 diamonds totalling 4.02 carats: 48 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, 10 on the pin buckle and 18 on the crown. The latter is also enhanced with a briolette-cut diamond.

A new folding clasp

Traditionally accompanied by a hand-sewn natural alligator leather strap and an 18 mm pin buckle, the FB 3SPC collection can now on request be equipped with a new 18 mm folding clasp. The latter features two blades, with a safety catch on the cap and a fine-adjustment mechanism enabling +/- 3 mm length modifications to fit the exact wrist size.

Already present on the folding clasps of the FB 1 and FB 2 collections, this mechanism equips the new version appearing with the Chronomètre FB 3SPC, whose design has been subtly reworked to adapt perfectly to the curve of the FB 3 case. This new clasp is available on request in 5N 18-carat rose gold or in 18-carat non-rhodium-treated white gold.

Through these new variations, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud reaffirms its desire to perpetuate the FB 3 collection, which requires the greatest watchmaking expertise, in order to produce and adjust around 30 chronometer-certified movements of this type each year. This launch also marks the start of celebrations for Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, which is celebrating its tenth anniversary in 2025.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC Technical Specifications

Functions

• Central display of the hours and minutes, seconds at 6 o’clock and power reserve at 2 o’clock

Movement

• Mechanical hand-wound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Calibre FB-SPC
• Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 mm
• Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.84 mm
• Lignes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15’’’
• Jewels. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 47
• Frequency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
• Power reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 hours
• Number of components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
• Number of bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
• Slip-spring barrel (automatic uncoupling when maximum power reserve is reached)
• Variable-inertia balance with four fine-adjustment screws and 8 load screws
• Cylindrical balance-spring with hand-crafted Berthoud terminal curves
• Swiss lever escapement
• Crown-activated stop-seconds mechanism
• Mainplate and bridges in sandblasted nickel silver
• Hand-finished to the highest watchmaking standards

Case

• Round case in platinum PT-950, fitted with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock
• Bezel set with 48 baguette-cut diamonds (1.79 carats)
• Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.30 mm
• Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.43 mm
• Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 metres
• Crown diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.50 mm
• Crown and screws in ethical 18-carat white gold
• Exhibition back in platinum fitted with a glare proof sapphire crystal pane
• Domed sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides

Dial

• Peripheral inner bezel ring in velvet-finished silver-toned brass for the hours and minutes, shiny anthracite-varnished engraved numerals
• Seconds subdial at 6 o’clock in velvet-finished silver-toned brass, shiny anthracite-varnished engraved numerals
• Sandblasted salmon pink (4N gilded), nickel silver movement, gilded gear trains, straight-grained natural nickel silver regulating organ bridges, 4N gilded barrel cover
  HANDS
• Diamond-polished, skeletonised and open-tipped hours and minutes hands in blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold
• Seconds hand with openworked counterweight in blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold
• Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold

Strap

• Alligator leather strap (125 x 70 mm) – Various sizes and colours available on request
• Platinum 18 mm pin buckle
• 18-carat white gold 18 mm folding clasp with security fastening and length-adjustable blade –