The House of Breguet celebrates its 250th anniversary in 2025, with the unveiling of the Classique Souscription 2025 wristwatch in Paris, home to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop, which saw the birth of the master watchmaker’s great inventions.
The first timepiece with a simplified architecture, the design is epitomised by the purity of the white enamel dial, the time displayed by a single hand, yet with a remarkable legibility. More than two centuries ago, it was presented through an advertising pamphlet, the likes of which had never been seen before. Today, the historic, groundbreaking Souscription pocket watch is reborn as a wristwatch.
Abraham-Louis Breguet, in search of a wider audience
To protect himself from the violence of the French Revolution, A.-L. Breguet returned to Switzerland in 1793, staying in Neuchâtel and Le Locle. In 1795 he went back to Paris where, in 1775, he had set up his workshop, on the Île de la Cité, and had already achieved fame. On his return, he set about turning his company around, developing numerous projects, including the Souscription watch.
Although the term “Souscription” appears as early as 1796 in the sales registers, now carefully preserved in the Musée Breguet at place Vendôme, this single-hand timepiece was mainly marketed from 1797 onwards. It was through an advertising pamphlet devised by the master that this robust, reliable creation, with a large diameter of around 61mm, a white, enamelled dial and a movement with a simple architecture, became known. While most people think of A.-L. Breguet first and foremost as an exceptional watchmaker, he was no less a seasoned and visionary businessman, not hesitating to innovate even in his commercial methods.
The principle is simple: if the customer wishes to purchase a watch of this type, he or she must confirm the order by paying a quarter of the price. This deposit enabled the Quai de l’Horloge workshop to acquire the supplies needed to manufacture the watches, thus marking the start of series production. Around 700 timepieces were produced in this way over more than 30 years.
The Souscription watch embodies the desires of A.-L. Breguet’s philosophy of broadening his clientele and opening the doors to haute horlogerie with a watch that was revolutionary in its design and conception, as well as in its production and sales methods. In many ways, the Souscription watch is a cornerstone of Breguet’s work.
As part of its 250th anniversary celebrations, the House is unveiling the Souscription 2025, a fusion of the art of the Neuchâtel master watchmaker with contemporary know-how.
“This watch is the link between what we wish to share of the history of Breguet and our desire to perpetuate this history going forward.” Gregory Kissling, Breguet CEO
Classique Souscription 2025, perpetuating a passion born in 1775
The face of the Souscription 2025 model is adorned with a dazzling white, grand feu enamel dial that faithfully reproduces the spirit of the timepieces once produced at the Quai de l’Horloge workshop, such as the No. 246, No. 324 and No. 383 watches. The back is directly inspired by the architecture of the first Souscription watches signed by A.-L. Breguet.
A radiant face with classic features
Dressed in immaculate enamel, the dial symbolises the refined aesthetic intended by the master watchmaker. Based on simplicity and contrasts, it is easy to read. At its centre is a unique, steel, open-tipped Breguet hand, which has been flame-blued and curved entirely by hand. Its tapered tip hovers over the famous, slightly inclined Breguet Arabic numerals, as well as the circular “chemin de fer” (railroad track) with its specially designed sectoring indicating the hours and the 5, 10, 15 and 30-minute markings. The numbers and minute markers are in black, petit feu enamel, the same as the Breguet signature placed at 12 o’clock.
Depending on the light, the inscriptions “Souscription”, the unique serial number and the secret signature appear discreetly between the centre of the dial and 6 o’clock. Generalised on the original Souscription watch, this signature served to authenticate the work of the Breguet workshops and fight against counterfeiting. It is produced, as it was in A.-L. Breguet’s day, using a precision tool equipped with articulated arms: the diamond-point pantograph, which makes it possible to delicately engrave this guarantee of authenticity into the enamel.
This face, with its classic features, is protected by a sapphire crystal with a “chevé” profile. This innovation is also the work of A.-L. Breguet. This format, thinner and less domed than those then in vogue, has a relatively flat surface that gently curves towards the edges to blend harmoniously into the case, which was unprecedented at the time. This distinctive shape, like Breguet numerals and hands, has become part of the vocabulary of contemporary watchmaking.
A redesigned Breguet gold case
With the Classique Souscription 2025, Breguet introduces its own gold alloy: Breguet gold, a blond precious metal that combines gold, silver, copper and palladium. The case, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm high, is of a new design, standing apart from other watches, with a particular attention paid to its ergonomics. The typical Breguet fluting has been replaced by a delicately satin-brushed case middle that respects the style of the original timepieces, while the lugs have been curved to better fit the wrist and, as such, offer a more fluid appearance than the traditional straight lugs.
To celebrate its 250th anniversary in 2025, Breguet presents its own gold alloy: Breguet gold
Combining tradition and modernity, its warm, subtly pink hue is inspired by the gold used by watchmakers of the eighteenth century, following the example of A.-L. Breguet. At the time, this alloy met precise requirements in terms of resistance, durability and aesthetics, enhancing the prestige of watches.
Conceived and developed in the House’s workshops, 18K Breguet gold is composed of 75% gold, enriched with silver, copper and palladium. Beyond its brilliance, it is distinguished by its resistance to discolouration and its stability over time, guaranteeing a pure, elegant finish. Every detail has been designed to enhance the House’s collections, with particular attention paid to aesthetics and durability.
During the design stage, after selecting the ideal alloy, Breguet carefully ensured that it aligns with the various watchmaking skills, particularly the decorative finishes. Breguet gold thus embodies the House’s commitment to pushing back the boundaries of watchmaking expertise and exceeding established standards. It enriches the pieces in an exceptional anniversary collection, symbolising a unique heritage and a constant quest for innovation and excellence.
A beating heart, of mechanical art
On the back of the case, the generously sized, slightly domed, sapphire crystal reveals the mechanical construction of the new VS00 calibre in gilded brass in the same shade as Breguet gold. It is decorated with an entirely new type of guilloché pattern unveiled this year, called Quai de l’Horloge. This new design is inspired by the singular curves of the Île de la Cité and the slender refinement of the Île Saint-Louis to create a harmonious rhythm that can be infinitely modulated. This new creation celebrates guilloché as a living art, sublimated by Breguet’s expertise. The structural typology of the movements in the first Souscription watches produced by A.-L. Breguet was the inspiration for this calibre.
The result of a meticulous development process, this movement beats at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and delivers an impressive four-day power reserve using only a single barrel. The balance spring, a small, coiled spring that is at the heart of the precision timekeeping of the watch, is blued and features a Breguet overcoil. It is made from NivachronTM, a non-magnetic alloy essentially composed of titanium. This makes the movement more resistant to temperature variations, magnetic fields and shocks.
The plate and bridges are finely shot-blasted, a new decoration directly inspired by the movements of A.-L. Breguet. Blued steel screws and rubies further enhance the movement. At the centre sits the imposing ratchet wheel, which features an engraved inscription: the founder’s words, explaining the design of the Souscription movement and taken from his advertising brochure, are faithfully reproduced in his characteristic cursive script.
A new presentation box, between time and elegance
In the purest tradition of exceptional leather goods, Breguet is unveiling an original presentation box to mark its 250th anniversary. Inspired by the red Moroccan leather cases once used by A.-L. Breguet to protect his precious creations, this box, in lightly grained calf leather, features gold hot embossing bearing the inscription “BREGUET 250 YEARS”, which is accompanied by the individual serial number of the timepiece inside.
Its soft, rounded silhouette designed with an aesthetic and “philosophical” concern shaped over time, marks a real difference from traditional watch boxes. The opening mechanism, faithful to the techniques used in A.-L. Breguet’s time, is based on a simple, elegant pushbutton, while its hinge is plated with Breguet gold. The interior is lined with refined blue fabrics housing the watch in a vertical position, thus optimising space and evoking the spirit of pocket watches.
A nod to the first Breguet “logo” in the form of an escutcheon (a type of shield often seen in coats of arms) adorns the underside of the case. Much more than just a watch box, it is a collector’s item, a symbol of timeless heritage and watchmaking expertise that spans the ages.
Reference 2025BH/28/9W6 – 45’000 CHF (recommended retail price, all taxes included) / 52.300 EUR Warranty: 5-Year International Sales Warranty
Key features
Classique Souscription 2025, hand-wound VS00 calibre, 3Hz and 96-hour power reserve, fine shot-blasting, guilloché and hand-engraved, 40 mm-diameter 18K Breguet gold case, satin-brushed case middle, traditional grand feu white enamel dial, Breguet Arabic numerals and minute track in black petit feu enamel, single opentipped Breguet hand, flame-blued and curved by hand, alligator leather strap and 18K Breguet gold pin buckle.
Movement
Calibre VS00 treated in gilded brass in the same shade as Breguet gold, numbered and signed Breguet, 16 lines, 144 components, 21 jewels, 12 blued steel screws
5.7 mm thick
Hand-wound
3 Hz frequency (21,600 vibrations per hour)
Patented NivachronTM balance-spring with Breguet overcoil
Single barrel
96-hour power reserve (4 days)
Finely shot-blast finishing on plate and bridges
Ratchet wheel engraved in negative with a reprography of A.-L. Breguet’s writings
Case
18K Breguet gold
40 mm diameter
10.8 mm thick
Satin-brushed case middle, crystal with a “chevé” profile,
anti-reflective coating on both sides
“Quai de l’Horloge” handmade guilloché case back,
crystal engraved with “BREGUET 250 YEARS”,
anti-reflective coating inside
3 bar (30 m) water-resistance
Breguet gold weight: 47,7 g (Estimation)
Dial
White grand feu enamel on gold base
Black, petit feu enamel Breguet signature
Black, petit feu enamel Breguet Arabic numerals,
Black, petit feu enamel minute track
“Souscription”, serial number and secret signature engraved with a diamond-point pantograph
Indication
Single hand indicating the time (resolution: +/- 2 minutes),
curved with mirrorpolished chamfer,
flame-blued steel
Strap
Navy blue large-scaled alligator leather,
navy blue small-scaled alligator leather lining 18K Breguet gold pin buckle
Pin finishing with the B of Breguet
Box
Special Edition 250th presentation case in red leather, individually numbered, inspired by Breguet’s Moroccan leather cases of the period.
