At Watches and Wonders 2025, Hermès continues its horological journey with a collection that challenges conventional timekeeping. Rather than viewing time as something to be measured, ordered, or controlled, the Parisian maison presents it as an object designed to evoke emotions and create spaces for spontaneity. The novelties on display this year demonstrate the brand’s unique approach to watchmaking while maintaining connections to its rich heritage in leather craftsmanship and saddlery: Arceau Rocabar de rire, Arceau Le temps suspendu, Hermès Cut Le temps suspendu and the Maillon libre Collection.
Arceau Rocabar de rire
The Arceau Rocabar de rire presents one of the most whimsical creations from Hermès this year. This limited edition of 12 pieces features a dial with a mischievous horse that playfully sticks out its tongue when activated.
The dial is a masterclass in traditional craftsmanship, combining horsehair marquetry with hand-engraving and miniature painting. The artisan has meticulously selected horsehair strands in different colours, cut them precisely, and glued them one by one onto the brass base to create the colourful striped background. Against this backdrop, a hand-engraved and hand-painted horse appliqué comes to life through an “on-demand impulse” function activated by a pusher at 9 o’clock.
The watch is powered by the Manufacture Hermès H1837 self-winding movement, which offers a 50-hour power reserve and operates at 28,800 vph (4 Hz). The movement features circular-grained and snailed mainplate, satin-finished bridges and an oscillating weight decorated with a sprinkling of Hs – all visible through the sapphire crystal case-back.
The 41mm white gold case retains the signature asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs that have defined the Arceau line since Henri d’Origny designed it in 1978. The timepiece is completed with a bleu abysse alligator leather strap that complements the anthracite, red and straw-coloured shades of the dial.
Arceau Le temps suspendu
Hermès has reimagined its “Time suspended” complication, first introduced in 2011, with the new Arceau Le temps suspendu. This 2025 iteration features a slender 42mm case available in white or rose gold, framing an openworked dial that reveals the exclusive module responsible for the time suspension function.
The dial comes in three colour options – sunburst blue, brun désert, and rouge sellier – each providing a distinctive backdrop for this philosophical approach to timekeeping. The time suspension function allows wearers to temporarily escape the tyranny of measured time, embodying Hermès’ belief that “the time we forget is the time we cherish”.
The watch is powered by the Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement, which is visible through the transparent caseback. The asymmetrical lugs, crafted in the Hermès Horloger workshops, provide a visual connection to the equestrian heritage of the brand while maintaining the timeless nature of the Arceau line.
Hermès Cut Le temps suspendu
For the first time, Hermès has incorporated its emblematic “Time suspended” complication into the Cut collection, which was only unveiled last year. The Hermès Cut Le temps suspendu features a 39mm rose gold case with sharp lines and bold geometry, creating a striking contrast with the philosophical nature of the time suspension function.
The watch is powered by the Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement equipped with the Time suspended module. Adding to its unconventional character, the running indicator rotates counterclockwise, further disrupting our reference points regarding time.
The timepiece is available in several versions, including a one-shot model with a red dial. The combination of assertive design with the ability to suspend time creates a watch that embodies the brand’s playful approach to horology.
Maillon libre Collection
The Maillon libre collection represents Hermès‘ venture into new territory, reinterpreting the iconic anchor chain link as both a wristwatch and a brooch watch. These pieces stand out for their radical nature and versatility in how they can be worn.
The wristwatch features a complex structure with undulating shapes, incorporating either diamond or terracotta tourmaline centre stones. The time display is discreetly integrated into the bracelet design, adding an element of surprise when checking the time.
The brooch watch revives one of the most ancient masculine accessories, transforming it into a versatile piece that can be worn on its own or as a pendant using a leather cordlet – a nod to the brand’s leatherworking heritage. This collection exemplifies Hermès’ ability to create timepieces that are both expressive and precious, where elegance meets unexpected design.
The Hermès Approach to Time
These 2025 novelties from Hermès demonstrate how the maison continues to challenge traditional watchmaking while maintaining its distinctive identity. Since its founding in 1837 as a harness workshop, Hermès has evolved into a luxury house that creates objects “shaped by the hands of artisans to make them true companions for those who wear them”.
The incorporation of crafts like horsehair marquetry and hand-engraving alongside mechanical innovations such as the “Time suspended” module speaks to the brand’s commitment to both tradition and innovation. Each timepiece reflects Hermès’ philosophy that objects should be practical and functional while radiating “the lightness of the unexpected”.
As Watches and Wonders 2025 demonstrates, Hermès continues to view time not just as something to be measured, but as an object that can “arouse emotions, open up interludes and create spaces for spontaneity”. In doing so, the brand transforms ordinary moments into extraordinary experiences, staying true to its heritage while constantly reimagining what a luxury timepiece can be.
