Panerai, a brand synonymous with Italian design and Swiss precision, once again captivated the horological world at Watches and Wonders 2025. With a legacy rooted in crafting precision instruments for the Italian Navy, Panerai has evolved into a beacon of innovation and style. This year, the Maison showcased a series of novelties that blend heritage with cutting-edge technology, reaffirming its position as a leader in luxury watchmaking: the Jupiterium, Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 and the Luminor Marina Collection.
A Tribute to Galileo: The Jupiterium
The Panerai Jupiterium is a planetarium clock that exemplifies advanced horological engineering and astronomical precision. Presented at Watches and Wonders 2025, this large-scale timepiece integrates complex mechanical systems to replicate the celestial movements of the Sun, Moon, Jupiter, and its four Galilean moons. Inspired by Galileo Galilei’s revolutionary discoveries, the Jupiterium serves as both a tribute to scientific exploration and a demonstration of Panerai’s technical expertise.
The dial of the Jupiterium is positioned beneath the central celestial sphere and features a minimalist yet functional design. Set against a black background, it includes long stick hour markers and large Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock, all coated with Super-LumiNova® for enhanced visibility in low light. The hour, minute, and second hands are similarly luminescent. The dial also includes an AM/PM marker for distinguishing day and night, a linear power reserve gauge marked with “40 giorni” (40 days), reflecting the clock’s extended operational autonomy, and a perpetual calendar display arranged in a linear format, showing the day, date, month, and year. The rehaut is engraved with “Jupiterium,” while the perpetual calendar mechanism is labelled in Italian as “Calendario Perpetuo.”
The Jupiterium is powered by a key-wound mechanical movement operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour. It incorporates eight spring barrels that collectively enable an impressive 40-day power reserve. The movement comprises 1,650 components, primarily crafted from titanium for durability and weight reduction, and includes 97 jewels to minimise friction within the intricate mechanism. The perpetual calendar is accurate until the year 2099, requiring minimal adjustments over centuries. Additionally, a retrograde mechanism simulates the apparent backward motion of planets due to relative orbital positions. The planetary movements are driven by a patented system of gears and counterweights that ensure precise representation of celestial phenomena such as retrogradation.
The Jupiterium is encased within a transparent glass structure supported by a mahogany base measuring 75 cm by 86 cm. The external structure is composed of black aluminium with anti-reflective coatings to enhance visibility. Key materials include titanium, used extensively in the mechanism for its strength-to-weight ratio, and polymer-coated planets enhanced with Super-LumiNova® for visual clarity. The hemispheres with constellations feature luminescent engravings to depict star positions. The entire installation weighs approximately 110 kg, underscoring its architectural scale while maintaining structural integrity.
Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575
The Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575, unveiled by Panerai at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, represents an advanced addition to the brand’s high-end watchmaking portfolio. This timepiece integrates innovative materials, mechanical complexity, and functional design rooted in Panerai’s history of crafting precision instruments for the Italian Navy. It is designed to combine durability, readability, and technological sophistication.
The watch features a sapphire crystal dial that offers transparency into the intricate mechanics beneath. The blue tone of the dial evokes maritime themes, complemented by luminescent applied indexes and hands treated with Super-LumiNova® X2 for enhanced visibility in low-light conditions. This advanced luminescent material provides a vivid green glow and greater efficiency compared to previous iterations.
The dial layout prioritises legibility by presenting essential functions such as hours, minutes, day, date, 12-hour GMT hand, a 24-hour GMT sub-dial at 9 o’clock, small seconds, and a day-night indicator. Additional perpetual calendar details—month, year, and leap year—are visible through the sapphire case back. The restrained design ensures clarity while maintaining functionality.
At the heart of the PAM01575 is Panerai’s P.4100 calibre, an automatic mechanical movement developed over ten years. This calibre operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and features a three-day power reserve stored in two barrels. A gold off-centred microrotor enables efficient winding while preserving space for displaying complications within its compact dimensions (35.1 mm diameter and 7 mm thickness).
Key technical innovations include:
- Perpetual Calendar Mechanism: Capable of calculating dates up to the year 2399 without requiring component changes. Adjustments for century transitions involve a simple intervention by a watchmaker.
- Intuitive Adjustment System: Day, date, month, and leap year settings can be adjusted smoothly using only the crown without restrictions during sensitive periods such as midnight transitions.
- Patented Date Shock Protection: Stabilises the date disk against impacts to prevent misalignment and reduce servicing needs.
- Patented GMT Spring: Enhances durability and smooth operation of dual-time functionality by distributing pressure across multiple contact points.
- The movement comprises 429 components and is equipped with anti-shock systems such as KIF® protection for reliability under everyday conditions.
The case is crafted from Panerai Platinumtech™, a proprietary alloy made with 95% pure platinum. This material undergoes specialised treatment to increase hardness by 40% compared to standard platinum while offering higher scratch resistance. The case measures 44 mm in diameter and includes a polished bezel and a screwed see-through sapphire crystal case back.
Panerai’s signature crown-protecting device ensures water resistance up to 5 BAR (approximately 50 metres). The robustness of the case is further tested under pressure exceeding guaranteed water resistance values by 25%.
Luminor Marina Collection: A Modern Evolution
The Panerai Luminor Marina collection represents a fusion of Italian design heritage and Swiss horological expertise. Originally developed to meet the rigorous demands of the Italian Navy, the Luminor series has evolved into a hallmark of robust watchmaking. The latest models showcased at Watches & Wonders 2025 continue this legacy, combining advanced technical features with refined aesthetics. This presentation explores the key aspects of these watches, including their dials, movements, cases, and overall functionality.
The dials of the Luminor Marina watches are designed for optimal readability and durability under various conditions. They feature a sandwich construction—a layered design where luminous material is placed between two plates with cut-out numerals and markers. This construction enhances visibility, particularly in low-light environments, a necessity for military applications.
The latest models incorporate Super-LumiNova® X2 technology, which provides increased brightness compared to previous iterations. This innovation ensures clear legibility even in challenging lighting conditions. The dials are available in several finishes:
- Matt black (PAM03312): A traditional aesthetic paired with green Super-LumiNova® X2.
- Sun-brushed blue (PAM03313): A contemporary look with white luminescence.
- Matt white (PAM03314): Featuring grey Super-LumiNova® X2 for a modern touch.
- Light blue sun-brushed (PAM03323): A fresh colourway combined with white luminescence.
- Green sun-brushed (PAM03325): An olive-green dial reminiscent of Panerai’s military origins.
Each dial includes a date display at 3 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock for enhanced functionality.
At the heart of the Luminor Marina collection is the P.980 calibre, an automatic mechanical movement engineered for reliability and precision. Key technical specifications include:
- Power reserve: 3 days, supported by a single barrel.
- Frequency: Operates at 28,800 alternations per hour.
- Components: Comprising 177 parts, including 23 jewels.
- Anti-shock system: Equipped with Incabloc® to enhance durability during impact.
- Stop-second function: Enables precise time-setting by halting the seconds hand when adjusting the crown.
The movement undergoes six-position testing to ensure chronometric accuracy. Its finishing is visible through an open sapphire case-back, offering both aesthetic appeal and insight into its mechanical intricacies.
The Luminor Marina cases are crafted from high-performance materials to maximise strength and wearability:
- Titanium (PAM03325):
- Constructed from Grade 5 titanium, known for its strength-to-weight ratio and resistance to corrosion.
- Features a brushed finish paired with a polished bezel for contrast.
- Stainless Steel (PAM03312-PAM03323):
- Made from AISI 316LVM stainless steel, a low-carbon alloy that offers enhanced corrosion resistance due to vacuum arc remelting.
- Available in brushed or polished finishes depending on the model.
The cases measure 44mm in diameter and have been refined to reduce thickness and weight by approximately 12% and 15%, respectively. This modernisation improves comfort without compromising durability.
All models feature water resistance up to 50 BAR (~500 metres), making them suitable for professional diving applications. Each watch undergoes testing at pressures exceeding the guaranteed limit by 25%, ensuring reliability under extreme conditions
| Reference | Price |
|---|---|
| PAM01575 | 78.000 € |
| PAM03312 | 8.900€ |
| PNPAM03313 | 8.900€ |
| PAM03314 | 8.900€ |
| PAM01574 | 16.800€ |
| PAM03323 | 9.900€ |
| PAM03325 | 9.900€ |
Ambassadors and Friends of the Brand
Panerai’s rich narrative extends beyond its timepieces through its collaboration with ambassadors who embody its values. Mike Horn, a legendary explorer, has co-created several Panerai watches over two decades. His expeditions have inspired limited-edition models like the Submersible GMT Titanio Mike Horn Experience Edition PAM01670. Kauli Vaast, the Olympic surfing champion, reflects Panerai’s deep connection to the sea. His partnership celebrates resilience and passion, qualities mirrored in Panerai’s maritime heritage. Alberto Guerra, the Cuban actor, represents the Luminor collection, bringing his charisma and dedication to Panerai’s global stage.
A Legacy of Innovation
Founded in Florence in 1860, Panerai began as a supplier of precision instruments for the Italian Navy before transitioning into luxury watchmaking under Richemont Group ownership in 1997. Iconic designs like the Luminor and Radiomir have become symbols of rugged elegance, blending Italian creativity with Swiss craftsmanship.
At Watches and Wonders 2025, Panerai demonstrated its enduring commitment to innovation while honouring its storied past. From celestial marvels like the Jupiterium to modern evolutions in its flagship collections, Panerai continues to push boundaries while staying true to its heritage—a legacy that resonates with collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.
