The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar marks the 30th anniversary of Roger Dubuis, a Swiss watchmaking maison known for its innovative and expressive designs. This timepiece revisits the brand’s hallmark biretrograde display, combining technical complexity with heritage-inspired aesthetics. Certified by the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, it reflects a meticulous approach to craftsmanship and horological precision.
The dial of the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is designed to enhance both functionality and aesthetics. The biretrograde display, positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock, is a signature of Roger Dubuis‘ design language. This display utilises a system of cams, rakes, clicks, and springs to return the hands to zero at the end of their cycle. The silver-plated dial features a satin-brushed surface with pink gold accents. Mother-of-pearl inserts at 12 and 6 o’clock add visual depth, while gold-plated hour markers with white luminescent material ensure legibility. The hour and minute hands are crafted from pink gold with satin-brushed surfaces and luminescent centres. Retrograde hands, made of lightweight brass coated in pink gold, optimise functionality. The symmetrical layout of the dial, along with its refined detailing, pays homage to the maison’s earlier designs from 1996.
The watch is powered by the RD840 calibre, an automatic movement that exemplifies technical sophistication. It features day and date functions displayed via the biretrograde mechanism. The movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offers a power reserve of 60 hours. With a thickness of 4.17 mm, it comprises 240 parts and includes 40 jewels. The movement incorporates 14 distinct finishes, including polished and matte surfaces, meeting the stringent requirements of Poinçon de Genève certification. Every component is hand-decorated to achieve a balance between aesthetic appeal and mechanical performance. Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the RD840 calibre also features a redesigned oscillating weight inspired by Roger Dubuis’ early creations.
The case is crafted from 18K pink gold, offering durability alongside elegance. It measures 40 mm in diameter and 11.25 mm in thickness, providing a balanced size for wearability. The watch is rated at 10 bar (100 metres) for water resistance, ensuring protection during everyday activities. The open sapphire crystal caseback allows a view of the intricately finished movement. This slimmer design reflects Roger Dubuis’ early preference for refined proportions in gentlemen’s watches.
The watch is paired with a premium calf leather strap featuring Roger Dubuis’ Quick Release System (QRS) for easy interchangeability. The strap is secured with a triple folding buckle made from pink gold, also equipped with QRS functionality.
The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar represents a significant technical achievement in modern horology. Its innovative biretrograde mechanism showcases mechanical ingenuity, while its adherence to Poinçon de Genève standards underscores its commitment to craftsmanship. By blending heritage-inspired design elements with contemporary materials and techniques, this timepiece serves as both a celebration of Roger Dubuis’ legacy and a forward-looking statement in fine watchmaking.
