In the landscape of modern horology, Bell & Ross managed to carve out a distinctive visual identity. What began as a university project between two childhood friends has evolved into one of the most recognizable design languages in the watchmaking world. As we witness their 2025 novelties at Watches and Wonders, it’s the perfect moment to chronicle the journey of this French-Swiss manufacturer that transformed cockpit instruments into wrist-worn icons.
The Genesis of Functional Horology
Bell & Ross was born in 1992, founded by Bruno Belamich and Carlos A. Rosillo – whose surnames provided the “Bell” and “Ross” that would become horological shorthand for utilitarian excellence. The childhood friends embarked on their watchmaking adventure with a crystal-clear philosophy: “function shapes form“.
The foundational principles that would guide the brand were established early: efficiency, legibility, and reliability. These weren’t merely marketing buzzwords but essential criteria for the professional users Bell & Ross intended to serve – pilots, astronauts, divers, and bomb disposal experts whose lives could depend on their timepieces.
Perhaps the duo’s shrewdest early move was partnering with Sinn Spezialuhren, the German manufacturer already renowned for its professional-grade dashboard instruments. The earliest Bell & Ross timepieces carried “Bell & Ross by Sinn” on their dials, leveraging Sinn’s technical expertise while establishing their own design language.
The Early Milestones
The brand’s inaugural years saw remarkable achievements that belied its youth. In 1994, Bell & Ross introduced the Space 1, a re-edition of the first automatic chronometer worn in space by German physicist Reinhard Fürrer during the Spacelab mission. This was followed by the Type Demineur in 1996, specially designed at the request of the French Civil Defense bomb disposal unit.
In 1997, Bell & Ross shattered records with the Hydro Challenger, which achieved a world water resistance record of 11,000 meters, securing a place in the Guinness Book of Records—and impressively, diving a few meters deeper than Rolex’s later Deep Sea Challenge would achieve in 2012.
The Chanel Connection
The trajectory of Bell & Ross took a decisive turn in 1998 when luxury powerhouse Chanel Horlogerie acquired its first stake in the company. As Carlos Rosillo recounts, “The brand awareness grew and the second step was when Chanel took a share in the company, in 1998. Two years later, in 2000, Chanel took another share in the company.”
This partnership proved transformative without compromising the brand’s identity – Bell & Ross maintained majority control while gaining access to Swiss manufacturing expertise. By 2002, the Sinn era concluded, and Bell & Ross began producing watches at Chanel’s manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.
The Square Revolution: Birth of an Icon
If there’s a watershed moment in Bell & Ross history, it arrived in 2005 with the introduction of the BR-01 Instrument. This revolutionary timepiece boldly reimagined what a pilot’s watch could be. The BR-01’s distinctive 46mm square case with four exposed screws at the corners wasn’t merely a design exercise—it was a deliberate translation of aircraft cockpit instruments to the wrist.
The BR-01 represented a dramatic departure from conventional watch design, embracing a pure “round within square” aesthetic that would become instantly recognizable. As Bruno Belamich explains in the brand’s 20th-anniversary materials, “Its unique design, inspired by aviation cockpit instruments, quickly became a signature of the brand.”
The watch’s overwhelming success proved that watchmakers could still create genuinely original design languages in the 21st century. For Bell & Ross, it established a visual identity that would permeate its collections for decades to come.
The Evolution Continues: BR-03
Recognizing that the 46mm BR-01 was too substantial for many wrists, Bell & Ross introduced the more wearable 42mm BR-03 in 2006. This adaptation preserved the iconic square case and four screws while offering proportions that appealed to a broader audience.
The BR-03 would become the brand’s workhorse, spawning countless variations over the next two decades. In 2023, Bell & Ross further refined the case to 41mm—a subtle but significant evolution that demonstrated the brand’s attention to changing market preferences while maintaining design integrity.
Two Decades of Innovation
Between 2005 and 2025, Bell & Ross consistently pushed the boundaries of their square case concept. The BR-01 Skull in 2009 revived skull motifs in watchmaking, while the BR-03 Phantom (2007) pioneered the now-ubiquitous “all black” aesthetic.
The Flight Instruments collection, launched in 2010, further explored the aviation connection by directly translating specific cockpit gauges to wristwatch designs. The BR-01 Red Radar (2011) incorporated radar screen aesthetics, while the BR-03 Horizon reimagined the artificial horizon instrument.
Bell & Ross has consistently demonstrated prowess with complications as well. The BR-X1 Chrono Tourbillon (2015) and BR-X2 Tourbillon (2017) embedded high horology within the utilitarian design language. The brand also explored material innovation, incorporating ceramic, bronze, and carbon fiber long before they became industry standards.
In 2017, the brand proved that functional design need not be constrained by convention with the BR-03 92 Diver, demonstrating that diving watches didn’t require circular cases.
Military and Professional Collaborations
True to its founding mission, Bell & Ross has maintained strong connections with professional users. The brand has created specialized timepieces for the French Air Force, the French Naval Air Force, and students from French war schools.
Perhaps most significantly, in 2021, Bell & Ross announced a partnership with the prestigious Patrouille de France, France’s aerobatic demonstration unit. As Bruno Belamich noted, “This token of trust is the fruit of a rich and prestigious history between Bell & Ross and military aviation.”
Watches and Wonders 2025: Celebrating 20 Bold Years
At Watches and Wonders 2025, Bell & Ross celebrates the 20th anniversary of its iconic BR-01 with the “20 YEARS OF BOLDNESS” campaign. The centerpiece of this celebration is a sophisticated new BR-03 Skeleton collection that demonstrates how far the brand has evolved while maintaining its distinctive DNA.
BR-03 Skeleton Collection
The new collection introduces three remarkable variations, each showcasing the art of skeletonization through a unique lens:
The BR-03 Skeleton Black Ceramic features a 41mm micro-blasted black ceramic case framing a smoked sapphire crystal dial that offers a stealthy glimpse of the movement beneath. The “baignoire style” indices are filled with Super-LumiNova for optimal readability—a reminder that function remains paramount even in these artistic executions.
The limited-edition BR-03 Skeleton Grey Steel (250 pieces) transforms the utilitarian pilot’s watch into something more sculptural and refined. Its polished and satin-finished steel case complements the open-worked dial with faceted areas treated with ruthenium for enhanced brilliance.
Most striking is perhaps the BR-03 Skeleton Lum Ceramic, limited to 250 boutique-exclusive pieces. This futuristic timepiece employs luminescence not merely for functionality but as a deliberate design element. The skeletonized dial features Super-LumiNova C3 outlines that create a dramatic green glow against the black ceramic case – producing a stunning “X-ray” effect that Bruno Belamich describes as adding “a modern, aesthetic dimension.”
New Movement Development
All three models feature the new BR-CAL.328 caliber, developed specifically for this collection. This automatic movement boasts a 54-hour power reserve and forms a distinctive X-shape with its upper bridges connecting to the case’s bezel screws. Priced between EUR 5,900 and EUR 6,900, these pieces represent a significant elevation of the BR-03 concept.
The Continuing Story of Boldness
As Bell & Ross marks this significant anniversary, its journey from a university project to a globally recognized brand with a distinctive design language serves as a reminder of what’s possible in modern horology. The DNA established with the BR-01 in 2005 has proven remarkably resilient and adaptable, evolving through countless iterations without losing its essential character.
The partnership between Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo has endured for over three decades—a testament to their complementary skills and shared vision. As Rosillo poetically describes their relationship: “It’s like an old couple. We don’t have to talk to understand each other.“
Bell & Ross has succeeded where many brands struggle, creating an instantly recognizable design language that has become their signature without becoming a constraint. By consistently balancing innovation with identity, they’ve ensured that their square case concept remains fresh and relevant two decades after its introduction.
The 2025 novelties demonstrate that Bell & Ross continues to find new expressions within their established aesthetic framework, elevating their utilitarian roots with sophisticated executions that bridge the gap between tool watches and haute horlogerie. As the next chapter begins, the boldness that has defined the brand for thirty-three years shows no signs of diminishing.
