Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 38mm: Luxury Redefined in Size

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Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms is a foundational pillar of modern sports horology, a symbol of underwater exploration, and a technical benchmark. In June 2025, the introduction of the new 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique marks a pivotal evolution for this legendary collection, making it more accessible, versatile, and inclusive than ever before. This new size is not just a reduction in diameter, but a careful reimagining, designed to offer the iconic Fifty Fathoms experience to a broader spectrum of wrists, including those seeking a more discreet or feminine profile. It can be seen as answer the growing demand from women and men alike for a high-performance, beautifully crafted diver that doesn’t overwhelm the wrist.

Fifty Fathoms: A Deep Dive into History and Sizes

Origins and Early Innovations

The Fifty Fathoms was born in 1953, the brainchild of Blancpain’s then-CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter, himself a passionate diver, and the French Navy’s combat divers, Captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud. Their requirements – legibility, water resistance, a secure rotating bezel, and anti-magnetic protection – set the template for all future dive watches. The original Fifty Fathoms featured a 42mm case, considered large for its time, but necessary for underwater readability and robustness.

Evolution of Case Sizes

Throughout its history, the Fifty Fathoms has seen a variety of case sizes and iterations:

1950s–1970s: The main Fifty Fathoms models ranged from 41mm to 42mm, with the Bathyscaphe sub-line offering smaller diameters (35–38mm) for those desiring a more wearable daily diver.
1980s–2000s: After a period of dormancy, the Fifty Fathoms returned with larger, more modern interpretations, including the 45mm reference 5015, which became the contemporary flagship.
2013–2017: The Bathyscaphe was reintroduced at 43mm, followed by a 38mm version in 2017, catering to both vintage enthusiasts and those preferring smaller watches.
2020s: The collection expanded further with limited editions in 40.3mm and a new 42mm size, but the 45mm remained the dominant regular production size—until now.

The New 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique

The dial options are equally compelling, ranging from classic sunburst blue and black, which evoke the timeless spirit of the original 1953 model, to two striking mother-of-pearl dégradé executions in petal pink and smoky black, introduced as a bold, expressive statement for those seeking a more contemporary aesthetic. Each dial is adorned with oversized luminescent markers and framed by the signature unidirectional rotating bezel, now rendered in domed sapphire for enhanced durability and a touch of vintage charm. The hands and indexes, crafted in red or white gold and treated with Super-LumiNova®, guarantee optimal legibility even in the murkiest depths.

Blancpain Calibre 1150 without the rotor weight

At the heart of the new model beats the Blancpain Manufacture calibre 1150, an automatic movement renowned for its technical sophistication and reliability. Operating at a frequency of 3 Hz and offering a prodigious 100-hour power reserve, the calibre 1150 features a silicon balance spring for superior anti-magnetic performance, a critical attribute for any serious dive watch. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back, revealing refined finishes and an 18ct gold rotor with NAC coating, a subtle homage to the original 1953 design.

The new 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique is available in a trio of case materials: polished stainless steel, satin-brushed grade 23 titanium, and 18ct red gold. Each was carefully crafted to balance visual impact with ergonomic comfort. The case, measuring 38.2mm in diameter and 12mm in thickness, with a lug width of 19mm, is engineered to offer a harmonious silhouette that sits elegantly on wrists of all sizes, whether slender or substantial. Water resistance is uncompromised at 300 meters, ensuring that the Fifty Fathoms remains every bit the professional-grade diver’s instrument it has always been.

This new generation of Fifty Fathoms is complemented by a diverse array of straps and bracelets, including tropic rubber, sail-canvas, NATO, and matching metal options in titanium or steel, each available with either a pin buckle or folding clasp. Such versatility ensures that the watch can transition seamlessly from the ocean’s depths to the urban landscape, adapting to any occasion or style preference.

A New Era: Fifty Fathoms for All Wrists

The arrival of the 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique is emblematic of a new era in the world of dive watches. No longer confined by traditional notions of size or gender, this collection now stands as a complete, coherent family, offering 38, 42, and 45mm options. The 38mm model, in particular, responds to a clear and growing demand from women seeking a sporty yet technically accomplished timepiece suited to a more delicate wrist, while simultaneously appealing to men who favor a more discreet, lightweight presence.

As Marc A. Hayek, President & CEO of Blancpain, eloquently observes, the Fifty Fathoms is “much more than a diver’s watch, it’s a symbol of exploration and innovation. With the addition of new models, we’re responding to a clear demand while reaffirming that this collection was always meant for all wrists. It’s a natural and important evolution for a watch born underwater, made to be worn anywhere”.

In sum, the 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique is a reimagined embodiment of Blancpain’s enduring commitment to innovation, inclusivity, and excellence. It heralds a new chapter in the history of dive watches, one in which technical mastery, heritage, and elegance are truly universal, transcending the boundaries of gender and wrist size to become, at last, a legend for every wrist.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 38mm Technical Specifications

Fifty Fathoms Automatique Ref. 5007

From 15,000 to 16,600 CHF for the grade 23 titanium edition, according to bracelet/strap
From 14,000 to 16,300 CHF for the stainless steel edition, according to bracelet/strap
From 25,600 to 28,500 CHF for the stainless steel edition, according to bracelet/strap

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