Introducing Ulysse Nardin BLAST [SPARKLING RAINBOW]

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Ulysse Nardin’s BLAST [SPARKLING RAINBOW] stands as a new example to the maison’s audacious approach to haute horlogerie, where avant-garde design converges with the most exacting standards of traditional craftsmanship. Since its inception, the BLAST collection has been a crucible for innovation, and in this eight-piece limited edition, the house has set the bar for gem-set timepieces with a dazzling display of technical virtuosity and artistic flair. The [SPARKLING RAINBOW] is a vibrant celebration of colour, light, and the enduring allure of hand-finished métiers d’art.

BLAST and Gem-Setting

The BLAST collection, launched in 2020, quickly distinguished itself through its architectural case inspired by the angularity of stealth aircraft and its radical skeletonised movement architecture. Ulysse Nardin’s penchant for experimentation has seen the BLAST platform serve as a stage for both technical and decorative innovation, including the introduction of gem-set iterations. The earliest gem-set BLAST, such as the Sparkling BLAST, employed a mosaic of diamonds across the case and dial, demonstrating the brand’s facility with complex pavé and invisible settings. These early forays paved the way for more audacious expressions, culminating in the [SPARKLING RAINBOW], where coloured sapphires supplant diamonds, and the art of invisible setting reaches new heights.

A BLAST in Mystery Setting

The BLAST [SPARKLING RAINBOW] is a 45mm white gold tour de force, its case, bezel, crown, dial, and clasp ablaze with 211 invisibly set sapphires, totalling 13.33 carats. The rainbow gradient, which encircles the watch in a seamless, chromatic spectrum, is the result of a painstaking selection process, with each sapphire chosen for its precise hue and clarity to ensure an imperceptible transition from one colour to the next. The visual magic is achieved through the rare and demanding technique of mystery setting, a métier d’art mastered by only a handful of artisans worldwide. Each of the 85 uniquely cut sapphires is set without visible prongs or metal, held in place by a hidden structure beneath the surface. This allows the stones to appear as if suspended in air, their brilliance unimpeded by any visible gold, and enables light to pass through unencumbered, imbuing the watch with an ethereal luminosity.

The complexity of the mystery setting cannot be overstated; it requires extreme precision and a steady hand, with each watch requiring at least four weeks of meticulous work. The result is a piece that is at once spectacular and refined, with the rainbow effect rendered so subtly that the journey through the spectrum feels almost organic, a testament to the maison’s uncompromising pursuit of excellence in gem-setting.

Calibre UN-172

At the heart of the BLAST [SPARKLING RAINBOW] beats the UN-172 manufacture skeleton movement, a self-winding flying tourbillon calibre that exemplifies Ulysse Nardin’s prowess in both movement architecture and technical innovation. This movement is distinguished by its use of silicon for the escapement wheel, anchor, and balance spring, a technology Ulysse Nardin pioneered in 2001 with the Freak, and which has since become a hallmark of the brand’s commitment to horological progress. The UN-172 operates at a frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour) and offers a robust 72-hour power reserve, courtesy of its platinum micro-rotor, which is visible at 12 o’clock through the skeletonised dial.

The movement’s architecture is a visual symphony: a raised rectangular bridge and the signature “X” motif traverse the openworked dial, while the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock and micro-rotor at 12 o’clock create a harmonious symmetry. The skeletonisation not only reveals the intricate mechanics but also allows the interplay of light and colour from the sapphires to suffuse the movement, further enhancing the watch’s theatrical presence.

The Triumph of Traditional Hand Craftsmanship

More than the sum of its technical and aesthetic parts, the BLAST [SPARKLING RAINBOW] is a paean to the enduring value of traditional hand craftsmanship in the modern era. Every element, from the invisible setting of the sapphires to the assembly of the skeletonised movement, is executed by artisans whose skills are the product of years, if not decades, of dedication to their craft. In an age increasingly defined by mechanisation, Ulysse Nardin’s insistence on hand-finishing and métiers d’art is both a nod to its storied heritage and a bold statement of its relevance in contemporary watchmaking.

The [SPARKLING RAINBOW] thus occupies a rarefied space within the world of haute horlogerie: it is at once a showcase of technological innovation and a celebration of the human hand. In its riot of colour and technical sophistication, it encapsulates the spirit of Ulysse Nardin: restless, inventive, and forever in pursuit of the extraordinary.

Ulysse Nardin BLAST [SPARKLING RAINBOW] Technical Specifications

Ref. 1720-400B1LE-9A-RAIN/3A – 8 pieces: 451’700 CHF (8.1% VAT included) / 482’000 EUR (21% VAT included) / 476’500 USD (VAT excluded) / 419’270 GBP (VAT included)

Movement

• Caliber UN-172 Manufacture Skeleton Movement
• Automatic movement
• Raised rectangular bridge
• Escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicon
• Hours, minutes
• Flying tourbillon
• Platinum micro-rotor (visible at 12 o’clock)
• 137 components, 25 jewels
• Frequency 18’000 vph, 2.5hz tourbillon
• Power reserve: 72 hours

Case & Dial

• White gold case set with 77 invisibly set rainbow-coloured sapphires totalling 5.82 carats
• White gold bezel set with 64 invisibly set rainbow-coloured sapphires totalling 3.92 carats
• Skeletonised dial set with 48 invisibly set rainbow-coloured sapphires totalling 2.46 carat
• White gold crown set with 8 invisibly set rainbow-coloured sapphires totalling 0.2 carats
• Caseback: Sapphire crystal
• Diameter: 45 mm
• Thickness: 13.35 mm
• Water-resistance: 50 m
• Total sapphires: 211 totalling 13.33 carats

Strap & Buckle

• Integrated white rubber strap with white gold deployant buckle set with 14 invisibly set rainbow-coloured sapphires totalling 0.93 carats