Ulysse Nardin FREAK [X GOLD ENAMEL]

In watchmaking, progress is achieved through the fusion of the future and the past. True innovation goes beyond mere advancement; it emerges when cutting-edge technology intersects with time honoured craftsmanship and tradition. The new FREAK [X GOLD ENAMEL] embodies Ulysse Nardin’s mastery of this space, pairing the revolutionary mechanisms of the Freak superwatch with the classic finery of a rare métier d’art. Combined, the timepiece is a celebration of unconventional design, pioneering technology, and unmatched Swiss craftsmanship.

THE ICONIC FREAK

Launched in 2001, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak redefined the boundaries of haute horlogerie. Originally a codename coined by then-owner Rolf W. Schnyder, the name “Freak” perfectly captured the watch’s bold spirit through its groundbreaking design and mechanics. With no hands, no dial and no crown, the original Freak replaced the crown with a time setting system integrated into the bezel and wound via a mechanism in the case back. The Freak introduced revolutionary innovations, most notably pioneering the use of silicon in watchmaking, valued for its exceptional durability, lightness, and resistance to magnetism. This material transformed the industry and remains central to the Freak’s technical excellence. Over two decades, and with more than 20 patents, the Freak has become an icon among collectors, representing Ulysse Nardin’s relentless pursuit of innovation. In 2023, the Freak One was awarded the Iconic Watch Prize at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

In 2019, Ulysse Nardin expanded the Freak collection with the introduction of the Freak X, designed as a more accessible iteration. The Freak X features a slimmer profile and a smaller case, making it suitable for everyday wear while preserving the core spirit and innovations that define the collection. A key evolution was the addition of a crown for winding and time adjustments.

A STATEMENT PIECE

The Freak X builds on the same principles as the original Freak. The entire movement rotates to indicate time: hours are shown by a pointer on a rotating disc, while the movement itself completes a full revolution every hour to mark the minutes. This complication, known as a flying carousel, is unique in that the movement is held without an upper bridge, seemingly “flying” above the hour disc, creating a mesmerising visual and mechanical show.

It features a rose gold-colored minute bridge and hour markers treated with white Super-LumiNova® for optimal legibility. The 43 mm case in blue PVD titanium, is enhanced by rose gold side parts, creating a bold and elegant contrast. Offering a 72-hour power reserve, the timepiece is paired with a blue alligator strap detailed with rose gold stitches and a blue titanium and rose gold folding buckle.

The Freak [X Gold Enamel] stands out with a striking Guilloché-Flinqué rotating disc with a sunray pattern, enhanced with multiple layers of blue enamel, amplifying the rotational path of the iconic flying carrousel. This highly exclusive edition is limited to just 120 pieces.

MÉTIERS D’ART
THE ART OF ENAMELLING

Among the rare decorative techniques preserved by Ulysse Nardin, enamelling holds a very special place. This ancient art—practiced for over 3,000 years by civilizations such as those of Egypt, China, and the Roman Empire—became associated with watchmaking in the 17th century. Renowned for its rich, vibrant palette, enamelling offers colors of unmatched depth that do not fade over time, unlike traditional surface treatments. Today, it remains one of the most intricate métiers d’art in watchmaking, mastered by only a handful of workshops worldwide, including Donzé Cadrans, Ulysse Nardin’s dedicated enamelling atelier.

DONZÉ CADRANS: PERPETUATING HERITAGE

To ensure the continuity of this expertise, Ulysse Nardin began collaborating with Donzé Cadrans in the 1980s and acquired the workshop in 2011. Established in 1972 in Le Locle – just a few streets from the Ulysse Nardin Manufacture – by master enameller Francis Donzé, the atelier has become a reference in the field, mastering traditional techniques such as Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, and Guilloché-Flinqué. With an annual production capacity of approximately 1’200 dials, the workshop not only supplies Ulysse Nardin but also serves other prestigious watchmakers and institutions seeking restoration of historical pieces.

SKILLS FORGED IN TIME

The enamellers of Donzé Cadrans are among the most experienced in the industry. The workshop employs eight artisans, several of whom have dedicated over three decades to perfecting their skills. It takes a minimum of five years to acquire the fundamentals of enamelling, and continuous learning is essential to reach the level of excellence required. Each dial is the result of accumulated expertise and meticulous handcraft, embodying both artistic sensitivity and technical discipline. Enamel fabrication is an extremely responsive process that can never be industrialised. The instincts and sensitivities required of the craft cannot be replicated by a programme or machine.

THE ART OF THE PROCESS

While Donzé Cadrans is renowned for crafting static enamel dials, the rotating disc of the Freak X presents a significantly greater technical challenge. Unlike traditional dials, the hour disc is an integral part of the movement itself—a functional and mobile mechanical component that incorporates multiple screw fittings. These elements add complexity to the enamelling process, demanding exceptional precision and technical expertise. Moreover, the disc’s material is carefully selected: 22-carat rose gold (917 gold and 83 copper), chosen for its exceptional thermal stability. This unique composition enables the plate to withstand the extreme temperatures required during kiln firing, a crucial step in the enamelling process. Finally, the disc is stamped with a subtle sunray pattern that enhances the visual effect of the Freak X’s iconic rotating carousel.

The enamelling process begins with the washing and grinding of raw solid compounds into a fine powder using a traditional mortar and pestle. This meticulous step ensures the perfect consistency and color tone for the blue enamel applied to the rotating disc. Blue dials are emblematic of Ulysse Nardin’s maritime heritage, and the artisans at Donzé Cadrans continually develop new shades tailored to each timepiece. Finding the right blend of pigments is part experimentation, requiring deep knowledge of chemical reactivity and color theory.

Water is then added to form a pigment paste, which is carefully applied to the plate and fired at around 800°C. After cooling and cleaning, three to four additional layers are applied and fired, each enhancing depth, intensity and radiance of the hue. Once complete, the disc is manually polished—a delicate operation that takes up to an hour to achieve.

Every step in the kiln carries the risk of imperfections such as bubbling or cracking, often requiring the process to be restarted. It is a demanding discipline that calls for patience, precision, and remarkable technical skill—making enamel one of the most challenging materials to master in haute horlogerie. Each rotating disc of the Freak [X Gold Enamel], part of a limited edition of 120 pieces, is crafted one after the other, with each requiring a full day’s work—approximately eight hours—to complete. The result is a truly one-of-a-kind creation, where no two discs are exactly alike. Each piece bears its own depth and tone —its own unique soul and timeless color.

Ulysse Nardin FREAK [X GOLD ENAMEL] Technical Specifications

Ref. 2305-270LE-3AE-BLUE/1A – 46’000 CHF (incl. 8.1% VAT) / 49’100 EUR (incl. 21% VAT) / 48,500 USD (excl. VAT) / 42,700 GBP (incl. 20% VAT)

Movement

• Calibre UN-230 Manufacture
• Automatic movement
• Hours, minutes
• Self-winding system
• Flying carrousel movement rotating around its own axis
• Silicon escapement, hairspring and balance wheel, crafted entirely in-house at our dedicated
• silicon lab, SIGATEC
• Rotor in rose gold
• Rose gold coloured minute bridge with white Super-LumiNova®
• 214 components / 21 jewels
• Frequency 3 Hz, oscillations 21’600 V/H
• Power reserve: 72 hours

Case

• Blue PVD titanium case and bezel
• Side parts in rose gold
• Blue PVD titanium with open sapphire
• Diameter: 43 mm
• Perceived height: 10.70 mm
• Overall height: 13.38 mm
• Water resistance: 50 m

Dial

• Blue guilloche enamel hour disc
• Hour indicators in white Super-LumiNova®

Strap & Buckle

• Blue alligator strap with rose gold stitches
• Blue PVD titanium and rose gold folding buckle