The launch of the Chief Date Royal Purple marks another stride in Favre Leuba’s artistic resurgence, confidently blending design codes drawn from its storied past with a bold push into the present. The watch, inspired by the brand’s celebrated 1970s Chief collection, radiates character, much of it anchored in its evocative dial, meticulous movement finishing, and technical sophistication.
From the first glance, the dial’s distinctive Royal Purple hue captivates. This electrifying shade is not chosen for fashion’s sake, but rather for its profound symbolism. Evoking royalty, mystery, and the creative spirit, purple here stands for presence, intention, and purposeful elegance. The sunray-patterned dial shimmers evocatively with every movement of the wrist, further enlivened by the high-relief, polished Favre Leuba hourglass motif set three-dimensionally on the surface.
The raised, rhodium-plated indices and sandblasted grooves, set alight by the azure glow of Super-LumiNova C1 X1, create a visual tapestry that is as sophisticated as it is arresting. The hands—also rhodium-plated and finished with a delightful interplay of brushing and sandblasting—add depth and clarity, ensuring superb legibility under any lighting conditions, both day and night. At 3 o’clock, Favre Leuba integrates the date window with such seamless finesse that it feels a natural culmination of the dial’s geometry, not an afterthought.
Beneath this alluring façade ticks the FLD03 automatic calibre, engineered in collaboration with La Joux-Perret. This movement upholds the brand’s dedication to precision and mechanical artistry. Offering a substantial 68 hours of power reserve and beating at a rhythm of 28,800 vibrations per hour, it promises reliability for daily wear and weekend stretches alike. What truly elevates the movement, visible through the sapphire caseback, are its hand-executed finishes.
The mainplate boasts Geneva stripes, their interplay with light matched by the brilliance of thermally blued screws. The skeletonised rotor, engraved with Favre Leuba’s monogram, is adorned with intricate colimaçonnage—swirling spiral patterns—and radiant soleillage sunburst finishing. Such fine decoration signals a contemporary approach to Swiss watchmaking, where technical achievement goes hand in hand with aesthetic pleasure. With 24 jewels ensuring smooth mechanics, each glance through the transparent back is a reminder of the care and artistry within.
The 40mm stainless steel case is another masterstroke in balanced proportions. Its cushion-shaped architecture, a nod to the brand’s design heritage, is further elevated by a harmonious blend of polished and satin-brushed surfaces. At just 10.81mm thick, the case manages to offer both significant wrist presence and refined comfort, emphasising a versatility suitable for any occasion.
The curved sapphire crystal, equipped with an anti-reflective coating, guards the dial, ensuring clarity in all environments. At the rear, the sapphire caseback allows full appreciation of the movement’s artistry. The water resistance of 10 ATM supports active lifestyles without compromising the watch’s sophisticated credentials.
Favre Leuba offers the Chief Date Royal Purple with two strap options: an integrated stainless steel bracelet, its alternating brushed and polished surfaces enhancing the case’s geometric flow, and a vibrant purple FKM rubber strap for a more sporting, contemporary spirit. Each is fitted with engraved hardware, whether it be the butterfly clasp or the pin buckle, and both provide a seamless, confident fit.
This Chief Date Royal Purple serves as a striking demonstration of Favre Leuba’s progression. It is a creation that respects the house’s enduring codes but refuses to blend into the background. From dial to movement, case to clasp, each element is crafted with an attention to detail that speaks not to past glories, but to a living legacy: evolving, bold, and undeniably present in today’s landscape of independent watchmaking. The new Chief Date Royal Purple is a compelling argument not just for the return of Favre Leuba, but for its place at the forefront of modern horological artistry. Can be dound on the brand’s website: Favre Leuba Chief Date Royal Purple – €2,775 for bracelet and €2,675 for rubber.
