In the rich horological landscape of 2025, Glashütte Original unveils a creation that deftly intertwines the past and present, the PanoLunarTourbillon in platinum. Conceived to celebrate both the 180th anniversary of Glashütte watchmaking and the inauguration of the brand’s new dial manufactory, this limited edition of fifty pieces stands as a profound homage to Saxon craftsmanship and the enduring spirit of innovation that has defined the region. The watch, with its evocative “Eisenerz” (iron ore) rose dial and a suite of complications, projects an aura of refined exclusivity and technical bravura that beckons the connoisseur to discover the depths of its artistry and the joy of living.
Bits of History: Glashütte, the Cradle of German Fine Watchmaking
Glashütte Original’s narrative is inseparable from the very genesis of watchmaking in Glashütte, Saxony. The brand’s roots reach back to 1845, when Ferdinand Adolph Lange and a cadre of visionary craftsmen established the foundations of what would become a global epicentre of horological excellence. Through wars, political upheaval, and economic transformations, the Glashütte watchmaking tradition has maintained an unbroken lineage, steadfastly upholding the values of authentic in-house production.
By the late 20th century, Glashütte Original emerged from the shadows of the GDR era (GUB – Glashütter Uhrenbetrieb), reinvigorated and resolute, championing both traditional techniques and modern innovation under one roof. Today, it is one of the few maisons capable of producing up to ninety-five per cent of its movement components as well as its exquisite dials internally, a rare feat that underscores its commitment to the craft.
The Evolution of the PanoLunarTourbillon
The PanoLunarTourbillon occupies a singular place within Glashütte Original’s Pano collection, a line renowned for its asymmetrical dial architecture and the harmonious interplay of classical and avant-garde elements. The tourbillon complication, a signature of horological virtuosity, was first introduced into the Pano series as an homage to Alfred Helwig, the Glashütte master who, in 1920, invented the Flying Tourbillon.
Helwig’s innovation, the anchoring of the tourbillon on one side only, ushered in a new era of technical elegance, allowing the mechanism to appear as if suspended in mid-air. Over successive generations, the PanoLunarTourbillon has evolved to incorporate new materials, refined complications, and increasingly sophisticated finishing, culminating in this 2025 edition that integrates a moon phase and Panorama Date, each executed with precision and aesthetic clarity that has become synonymous with the brand.
Techniques and Aesthetic Mastery
The dial of the PanoLunarTourbillon Eisenerz is a canvas upon which the full spectrum of Glashütte Original’s dial-making prowess is displayed. Crafted in the newly opened dial manufactory, the surface is distinguished by its galvanic rose “Eisenerz” hue, a colour that draws inspiration from the iron-rich soils of the Ore Mountains encircling Glashütte.
The galvanisation process applied to a finely grained substrate results in a crystalline texture that shimmers with a dynamic interplay of reds, subtly shifting with the light and the observer’s perspective. This difficult process is done by a handful of specialists who count on their years of experience to master the shades correctly.
The off-centre hour and minute sub-dial, adorned with a delicate vinyl milling, offers a visual counterpoint of tranquillity, while the applied gold indices, coated in blue, and the blued steel hands with Super-LumiNova infill, further enhance the sense of depth and sophistication.
The moon phase display, executed with a miniature night sky of silver stars on a deep blue ground, and the Panorama Date with its blue discs and crisp white numerals, are both produced in-house, underscoring the maison’s mastery over both artistry and engineering.
It is important to note that the date discs are in the same plane and not on top of each other, increasing the complexity of the mechanical design and showcasing the fine manufacturing tolerances which Glashütte Original masters so well. This complication becomes more natural and easier to use.
The Calibre 93-03 – a Showstopper in its own right
At the heart of the PanoLunarTourbillon beats the automatic Calibre 93-03, a movement whose technical specifications and finishing elevate it into the upper echelons of contemporary watchmaking. The calibre features a silicon balance spring, impervious to magnetic fields and temperature fluctuations, ensuring optimal chronometric performance. Oscillating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), the movement offers a power reserve of sixty hours, a feat achieved through judicious engineering and atent assembly.
The Flying Tourbillon, with its small seconds blue hand mounted on the cage, rotates with a visual lightness that belies the complexity of its construction. The moon phase mechanism, calculated to deviate by a bare 57.2 seconds per synodic month, speaks to an obsessive pursuit of astronomical accuracy. After 62.9 lunar cycles, the deviation amounts to only one hour.
The movement’s decorative flourishes are a symphony of traditional Saxon techniques: rhodium-plated plates adorned with Glashütte stripe finish, perlage on the base plate, a tin-polished tourbillon cage with hand-bevelled edges, and a skeletonised rotor with a rhodium-plated 21-carat gold oscillating weight. Blued screws and engravings inlaid with blue lacquer complete the ensemble, all visible through the sapphire crystal case back, inviting the wearer to linger over the mechanical artistry within.
Heavy: Material, Signification
Encasing this horological marvel is a platinum case, 40 millimetres in diameter and 12.7 millimetres in height, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47 millimetres. The case is superbly polished and satin-brushed, its slender bezel designed to maximise the visual expanse of the dial.
Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective on both sides, protects both the dial and the exhibition case back, ensuring an unobstructed view of the movement’s splendour. Water resistance is rated at 5 bar, providing a reassuring degree of robustness for daily use.
The watch is offered with a choice of blue Louisiana alligator leather strap or a synthetic fabric alternative, both secured by a platinum folding clasp, harmonising perfectly with the cool blue accents of the dial and hands. The available combinations showcase the brand’s commitment to offering a luxurious product that can be enjoyed in various sartorial cases.
Daily Wear: Comfort, Versatility, and the Joy of Ownership
Wearing the PanoLunarTourbillon is an experience that transcends the simple act of timekeeping. The balanced proportions of the case, coupled with the supple embrace of the alligator leather or the sporty resilience of the synthetic strap, ensure a remarkable level of comfort on the wrist.
Despite its technical complexity and precious materials, the watch possesses a versatility that allows it to transition effortlessly from formal occasions to more relaxed settings, its distinctive dial and harmonious asymmetry invariably attracting admiring glances.
The tactile pleasure of engaging with the complications, the visual delight of the flying tourbillon’s perpetual dance, and the nuanced play of colour across the dial combine to create a sense of intimate connection with the watch, a daily companion that rewards both contemplation and casual enjoyment.
I have to admit that, in the beginning, I was a bit skeptic about the orange/red background and the dark blue accents of the indexes and hands. I found the contrast a bit too strong for such a combination of features. Until I realised that the watch is meant to be enjoyed daily and not kept in a safe, just for a few major events. The watch is fun, joyful and playful and dares to get the adventurous side of you.
In sum, the Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon with Eisenerz dial is a masterwork that encapsulates the essence of Saxon watchmaking, a synthesis of heritage, innovation, and aesthetic refinement destined to captivate the discerning collector and bring the joy of life with a rather serious set of skills.
Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Eisenerz Technical Specifications
Model name and refference:
- PanoLunarTourbillon – 125.000 EUR
- Launch year: 2025
- Limited edition: 50 pieces
- Reference number:
- 1-93-03-01-03-61 with leather strap
- 1-93-03-01-03-64 with synthetic fabric strap
Movement:
- Calibre 93-03 automatic, finely finished
- Functions:
- Hours, minutes, small second,
- Flying tourbillon,
- Moon phase,
- Panorama Date
- Jewels: 50
- Frequency: 21,600 A/h, equivalent to 3 Hz
- Running time: 60 h
Case:
- Platinum
- Dimensions:
- Diameter: 40 mm, height: 12.7 mm,
- Lug to lug: 47 mm
- Glass: Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on both sides
- Case back: Sapphire crystal
- Water resistance: 5 bar
Dial:
- Galvanic rose “Iron ore” with finely grained surface, vinyl milling on off-centre dial; appliques: gold, coated in blue
- Hands: Hours/minutes: blued steel with Super-LumiNova®; seconds: blued steel
Straps:
- Blue Louisiana alligator leather: folding clasp in platinum
- Blue synthetic fabric strap, folding clasp in platinum
