Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR]: A New Era of Record-Breaking Lightness and Responsible Watchmaking

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In a horological landscape often defined by tradition, Ulysse Nardin’s Diver [AIR] emerges as a singular beacon comprising from a sum of innovation, sustainability, and technical audacity. At a featherweight 52 grams including the strap, this is not only the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch but also a compelling demonstration of what can be achieved when the boundaries of material science, responsible sourcing, and design are pushed to their very limits. The Diver [AIR] is more than a technical marvel; it is a manifesto for circularity and environmental responsibility, with each component narrating a story of upcycling, partnership, and purposeful engineering.

Collaborations and Material Innovation: Building a Responsible Ecosystem

Ulysse Nardin’s journey towards the Diver [AIR] is paved with a series of pioneering collaborations, each contributing expertise in advanced materials and sustainable processes. The brand’s ethos of innovation through partnership is exemplified by its alliances with both established industry leaders and nimble start-ups.

The movement and case’s titanium is sourced through TiFast, which recovers high-grade titanium from the Swiss biomedical sector, and then processed by Thyssenkrupp in Italy to enhance its machinability and resilience. This titanium is 90% recycled, a rarity in haute horlogerie, and a confirmation to Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to circularity. The side panels of the case are crafted from Nylo®-Foil, a composite material combining 60% recycled fishing nets—collected and processed by Fil & Fab, a French start-up—and 40% upcycled carbon fibre reclaimed from the hulls of high-performance IMOCA racing yachts by Extracthive, then transformed by Lavoisier Composites. The bezel insert, CarbonFoil, is made from 100% upcycled carbon fibre from these same yachts, compressed to create a marbled, visually arresting surface.

The escapement, a critical component for precision, is fashioned from upcycled silicon wafers supplied by Sigatec, further reducing the environmental footprint while enhancing anti-magnetic properties. These partnerships are not isolated gestures but part of a larger, ongoing ecosystem: previous models such as the Diver Net and Diver Net OPS have employed similar approaches, with cases made from recycled steel, Carbonium (upcycled carbon composite from the aerospace industry), and Nylo, a material derived from reclaimed fishing nets. Even the straps, ultralight, elastic, and available in white or orange, are designed for minimal environmental impact and maximum comfort, echoing the philosophy of the R-STRAP introduced in earlier sustainable concepts.

The Dial and Movement: Construction, Layout, and Finishes

At the heart of the Diver [AIR] beats the UN-374 calibre, a movement that is as visually striking as it is technically advanced. This skeletonised automatic movement, weighing a mere 7 grams, is the result of a radical reimagining of the earlier UN-372. The bridges and mainplate are crafted from 90% recycled titanium, their forms reduced to the barest essentials and arranged in triangular configurations, a nod to the principles of structural engineering, where such shapes offer maximum rigidity with minimal material.

The open architecture grants an unimpeded view of the movement’s inner workings, with the signature X-shaped bridges floating above a sea of negative space – indeed, 80% of the case’s interior is air. The oversized silicon balance wheel and balance spring, paired with an escapement wheel and anchor in upcycled silicon, ensure exceptional anti-magnetism and stability. Despite its ethereal construction, the UN-374 is shock-resistant to an extraordinary 5,000g, a feat achieved without sacrificing the automatic winding mechanism, an ISO requirement for dive watches. The movement delivers an impressive 90-hour power reserve, courtesy of a re-engineered flying barrel, and operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vph).

The dial itself is a study in minimalism and legibility. Skeletonised yet functional, it features black indexes and hands, both generously filled with white Super-LumiNova for optimal readability in low-light conditions. The visual balance is accentuated by the interplay of sandblasted and brushed finishes on the titanium components, offering a contemporary, industrial aesthetic that rewards close inspection.

A Modular Assembly of Advanced Materials

The Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR]’s 44mm case stands as a masterclass in modular construction and material innovation. The middle case, caseback, and movement bridges are all fabricated from 90% recycled titanium, lending the watch its remarkable strength-to-weight ratio and corrosion resistance, qualities essential for a true dive instrument. The side parts, including the lugs, are executed in Nylo®-Foil, whose marbled appearance is both a visual signature and a declaration of its upcycled origins. This composite is not only lighter than traditional carbon fibre but also a tangible link to ocean conservation, with each watch containing material once adrift as discarded fishing nets.

The unidirectional rotating bezel features a luminous insert of CarbonFoil, its swirling patterns a direct result of the randomised compression of upcycled carbon fibre. This material, originally designed for the rigours of competitive sailing, now serves as both a functional and aesthetic highlight. The domed sapphire crystal, engineered to withstand pressures equivalent to 170kg at a depth of 200 metres, completes the robust yet refined profile.

The caseback, also in recycled titanium, is fitted with a sapphire window, inviting admiration of the UN-374’s architectural movement. Water resistance is rated to 200 metres, ensuring that the Diver [AIR] is not merely an exercise in lightness but a fully capable tool for underwater exploration.

The straps, available in orange and white elastic fabric, are ultralight, each weighing less than six grams, and secured with a scratch closure for ease of use and versatility. These are easily interchangeable without the need for tools, enhancing the watch’s adaptability to both aquatic and urban environments.

Lightness, Pleasure, and the Imperative of Responsible Watchmaking

On the wrist, the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] is an almost paradoxical presence: its mass is so insubstantial as to be nearly imperceptible, yet its tactile and visual impact is profound. The sensation of wearing a watch that weighs less than eleven sheets of paper is a revelation (80gsm A4), transforming the experience of timekeeping into something both intimate and exhilarating. The pleasure derives not only from comfort but from the knowledge that each component is the result of thoughtful sourcing, upcycling, and partnership – a convergence of high horology and environmental stewardship.

Ulysse Nardin’s Diver [AIR] is not simply a technical achievement or a design statement; it is a blueprint for the future of responsible luxury. By demonstrating that circularity, transparency, and uncompromising performance can coexist, the brand has set a new standard for the industry. In an era where the provenance of materials and the ethics of production are as critical as the mechanics themselves, the Diver [AIR] stands as a luminous example, a proof that the lightest watch can also carry the heaviest significance.

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Ulysse Nardin Diver[AIR] Technical Specifications

Reference 3743-170-2A/0A – 36’000 CHF (8.1 % VAT) / 38’000 $ (w/o VAT) / 38’400 € (21% VAT) / 33’420 GBP (20% VAT)

Movement

• New UN-374 Manufacture calibre
• Skeleton automatic movement
• Hours, minutes, seconds
• Self-winding system
• Open barrel
• Bridges and main plate in 90% recycled titanium (Thyssenkrupp and TiFast)
• Oversized balance wheel & balance spring in silicon
• Escapement wheel, anchor in upcycled silicon
• 199 components / 21 jewels
• Frequency 3 Hz / oscillations 21’600 V/H

Case

• 44 mm
• Middle case: 90% recycled titanium (Thyssenkrupp and TiFast)
• Side parts: Nylo®-Foil (60% recycled fishing nets Nylo® from Fil & Fab and 40% upcycled carbon fibres from CDK Technologies)
• Concave rotating bezel : CarbonFoil (100% upcycled carbon fibres from CDK Technologies) with a domed sapphire glass
• Height 14.7 mm
• Caseback:
  • 90% recycled titanium (Thyssenkrupp and TiFast)
  • Titanium open mineral glass case back
• 200 metres water resistance

Dial

• Minimal skeleton dial
• Black indexes and hands with white Superluminova®

Strap

• The Diver [AIR] comes with two interchangeable straps:
  • Orange elastic fabric strap with scratch closing
  • White elastic fabric strap with scratch closing
• Compatible with R-STRAP and rubber straps

Weight

• The strap weighs less than 6 grams
• The Diver [AIR] weighs less than 52 grams
• The head of the watch weighs less than 46 grams