Kari Voutilainen’s name resonates with a quiet strength, an aura of meticulous perfectionism, and an unbridled devotion to timekeeping’s artistic and technical pinnacle. The Voutilainen 28 KOHAN Unique Piece, a one-off commission for a Finnish collector to mark his wife’s birthday, presents a narrative etched in precious material and emotion. Every aspect, from conception to the final, jewel-like assembly, speaks of profound intention, elegance, and an unwavering respect for both Japanese and Finnish heritage.
An Exhibition of Fantastic Craftsmanship
A dial such as this propels the watch straight into the realm of horology’s grandest artistic achievements. The magic unfolds across a surface wrought with shadows, glimmers, and colours: each telling a chapter of a story set on the archipelagos of Lake Saimaa. Voutilainen and master lacquer artist Tatsuo Kitamura conjure a play of autumnal foliage and glinting water through the ancient Urushi lacquering tradition. This centuries-old Japanese craft calls for the delicate application of layers of tree sap (“Urushi”), amplifying depth and vibrancy. Gold powder, hand-cut gold and platinum, and hundreds of fragments of green-turban and abalone shells are meticulously sorted by colour and lustre, then inlaid by hand over successive translucent coats.
Each layer is hand-polished, producing textures reminiscent of pebbles polished by centuries in a lake’s embrace. The surface interacts with light and shadow, revealing hidden aspects depending on the viewer’s perspective. Under bright illumination, the dial morphs into a lively blue sky, punctuated by clouds; in more subdued moments, it becomes a nocturne, the reflections reminiscent of moonlit water. It is the fruit of a protected, secret technique, ensuring no other dial can mimic its living aesthetic and tactile soul. The patience, artistry, and commitment on display here evade easy quantification, situating the timepiece unequivocally at the nexus of Japanese and Finnish aesthetic dialogue.
Technical Excellence and Artistic Finish
Peering through to the movement’s back, one discovers finishes and artistry that could hold their own in any grand complication. The calibre, developed in-house, features dual escapement wheels which deliver direct impulse to the balance. This innovation engenders superior mechanical efficiency versus the conventional lever, demanding less energy and affording a longer power reserve of 65 hours. The balance itself, a broad 13.50mm wheel fitted with rose gold timing weights, beats a stately 18,000 vibrations per hour, regulated by a distinctive balance spring—its external curve the classic Phillips, the internal curve the esoteric Grossmann, deliberately chosen to improve chronometric performance.
German silver and titanium bridges are decorated by hand, adorned yet again with Kitamura’s inimitable Urushi work, executed in the rare Saiei Maki-e style. On the ratchet, a compositional tableau displays three leaves of the silver birch, recalling the national tree of Finland, created from gold, blue lacquer and shell. The plates, bridges, steel components, and wheels are finished to an exceedingly high degree: flat-polished surfaces, hand-set jewels (30 in total), and a hand-crafted white gold power reserve indicator shaped as a Vichy water bottle, a small, personal nod to the client. The experience is both aesthetically intoxicating and technically reassuring, a movement inviting not only admiration, but also intimate scrutiny.
White Gold Craft and National Symbols
The case itself, 37mm in white gold, stands as sculpture rather than container. The exterior cover features hand-engravings and enamel work: a finely rendered seven-spot ladybird rests upon a silver birch leaf, paying tribute to Finland’s national insect and tree. Opening the cover, the interior continues the poetic symbology, with lilies of the valley (Finland’s national flower) and two holly blue butterflies (the national butterfly), all realised in hand-sliced mother-of-pearl. The composition’s hues change gently with the light, animating the miniature wildlife scene beneath the glass.
A granite-set crown references the national stone, echoing the red and black tones found throughout Finnish geology. More details await the sharp eye: the recipient’s birthday is discreetly engraved, along with the map of Finland and a bear’s paw, the nation’s animal, etched as a symbol of enduring strength. The sapphire glass on both faces enjoys anti-reflection treatment, and the watch is secured by a hand-sewn green crocodile strap, chosen for balance and a touch of daring individuality. Altogether, the case is both jewel and reliquary.
Craftsmanship and Dedication
Savouring the Voutilainen 28 KOHAN is akin to leafing through a compendium of artisanal mastery. Kari Voutilainen’s workshop, independent and uncompromising since 2002, has long been devoted to the creation of watches that blend Finnish gravitas with Swiss refinement. The 28 KOHAN stands out as a microcosm of his philosophy: unrelenting attention to mechanical integrity, aesthetic consequence, and the careful orchestration of cross-cultural dialogue.
Through collaborations with ateliers like Kitamura Studio, and a refusal to relinquish the most demanding decorative arts, Voutilainen’s horological practice becomes something larger: an intersection where love, skill, and national pride coalesce. In this unique piece, every detail harmonises with its narrative, championing a form of watchmaking where artistry is every bit as important as accuracy or longevity. The 28 KOHAN is a celebration of excellence, encapsulated in gold, lacquer, and dreams.
Voutilainen 28 KOHAN Unique Piece – Technical Specifications
Model: Voutilainen 28 KOHAN Pièce Unique
Movement
- In-house manufacture, manual winding, two escapement wheels with direct impulse
- Number of Components: 223
- Power Reserve: 65 hours
- Frequency: 18,000 v.p.h (2.5Hz)
- Balance Wheel: Free sprung, 13.50mm diameter, with rose gold timing weights
- Balance Spring: Phillips terminal curve on exterior, Grossmann internal curve
- Jewels: 30
- Main Plate: German silver (maillechort)
- Bridges: German silver and titanium, decorated by hand with Urushi lacquer (Saiei Maki-e technique)
- Ratchet Wheel: Steel, art decoration by Kitamura Studio
- Wheels: Made from gold
- Power Reserve Indicator: White gold, in the shape of a Vichy water bottle
Case
- White gold, 37mm, made in-house
- Case Decorations: Hand-engraved and enamelled covers (exterior and interior), with national Finnish symbols
- Crown: Set with a granite stone (Finland’s national stone)
- Sapphire Crystals: Front and back, anti-reflection treated
Dial
- Unique, hand-made and decorated by Kitamura Studio (Urushi lacquer with cut shells, gold, platinum)
- Hands: Gold and blued steel
Strap
- Hand-sewn green crocodile leather
