Twenty years have passed since Maximilian Büsser embarked on what many would consider a fool’s errand: leaving the comfort of corporate luxury to chase an impossible dream. In 2005, armed with little more than a sketch and unwavering conviction, Max set forth to create timepieces that would defy every conventional notion of what a watch should be. What emerged from this audacious venture is MB&F, a brand that has spent two decades proving that in horology, as in life, the most beautiful creations are born from the marriage of technical mastery and unbridled imagination.
The Genesis of an Impossibility
The story begins as all great horological tales do: with a man possessed by an idea that refused to let him rest. Fresh from his departure from Harry Winston, Büsser embarked on what can only be described as a world tour of wishful thinking, pitching a timepiece that existed solely in his mind to retailers who had every reason to politely decline. Yet sometimes, madness finds its perfect audience. Visionary retailers including The Hour Glass in Singapore, Westime in Los Angeles, Ahmed Seddiqi in Dubai, Ghadah in Kuwait, and Chronopassion in Paris did something extraordinary – they believed.
These early “Friends” paid upfront for nothing more than a promise, a testament to the infectious nature of genuine passion. In an industry built on heritage and proven track records, they wagered on pure potential. It was, by any reasonable measure, financial folly. Yet this act of faith would prove to be the cornerstone upon which one of independent watchmaking’s most influential brands would be built.
Redefining the Possible
The early 2000s presented a horological landscape dominated by established giants, with independent watchmakers relegated to the industry’s periphery, talented craftsmen working in relative obscurity. Büsser had already begun disrupting this status quo at Harry Winston with the Opus series, creating bridges between haute horlogerie and independent minds. But MB&F represented something far more radical: a complete reimagining of what mechanical timekeeping could become.
The driving philosophy behind this revolution is encapsulated in the brand’s enduring mantra: “a creative adult is a child who survived”. This isn’t merely marketing speak; it’s a declaration of war against the stifling conventions that often plague luxury industries. Each MB&F creation stands as evidence that when technical prowess meets unfettered imagination, the results transcend mere timekeeping to become kinetic art.
Twenty Years of Mechanical Poetry
The numbers tell only part of the story: approximately 4,500 timepieces spanning four main collections, Horological Machines, Legacy Machines, Performance Art, and Special Projects, each powered by one of 22 original calibres. Yet behind each statistic lies a testament to the relentless pursuit of mechanical poetry.
Consider the HM1’s groundbreaking four-barrel engine, a powerhouse that established the template for everything that would follow. Or the LM1’s flying balance wheel, suspended in space like a mechanical constellation, paired with a vertical power reserve that defied horological gravity. These weren’t mere complications; they were statements of intent, declarations that MB&F would never be satisfied with “good enough.”
The evolution continued with increasingly ambitious projects: the LM Perpetual’s revolutionary mechanical processor and split escapement, the LM Thunderdome’s record-breaking triple-axis mechanism, and the HM10 Bulldog’s ingenious “jaws” power reserve display. Each creation pushed further into uncharted horological territory, culminating in marvels like the HM11, an architectural wonder whose rotating case allows the wearer to wind the movement and select functions, including temperature display.
The Architect of Ingenuity
Amongst the constellation of talent that has shaped MB&F’s journey, one name deserves particular reverence: Stephen McDonnell. The Northern Irish watchmaker first breathed life into the HM1 prototypes in 2007, but his true masterpiece emerged with the LM Perpetual, a complete reconceptualisation of the perpetual calendar complication. Where traditional perpetual calendars are notoriously fragile and error-prone, McDonnell’s creation offered reliability, intuitive operation, and unprecedented user-friendliness.
His horological poetry reached its crescendo with the LM Sequential, introducing the revolutionary Twinverter system and an unprecedented combination of timing modes. This achievement earned MB&F the 2022 GPHG Aiguille d’Or, independent watchmaking’s most coveted prize. The subsequent LM Sequential Flyback demonstrated that even perfection could be improved upon, pushing the boundaries of mechanical timing to their absolute limits.
A Philosophy of Transparency
In an industry traditionally shrouded in secrecy regarding suppliers and collaborators, MB&F chose radical transparency. From the very beginning, “Friends” received proper credit – not hidden in small print, but celebrated openly. Just as film credits acknowledge every contributor to a cinematic masterpiece, MB&F ensured that every watchmaker, designer, engineer, engraver, and casemaker received their due recognition.
This roster of Friends reads like a who’s who of horological excellence: Eric Giroud, the visionary designer who collaborated with Max on the first two decades of Horological and Legacy Machines; Kari Voutilainen, Peter Speake, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, Eric Coudray, Stepan Sarpaneva, and Stephen McDonnell. This wasn’t mere courtesy, it was fundamental to the brand’s ethos: “treat others as you’d like to be treated.
Evolution of Structure
MB&F’s operational philosophy has evolved alongside its creative ambitions. Initially operating as a pure concept laboratory, with creation and assembly handled internally whilst all research, development, and component manufacturing was entrusted to external Friends—the brand has gradually embraced a hybrid model. Today, MB&F maintains an in-house R&D team of eight engineers and a machining workshop producing 75-80% of cases and 15-20% of movement components, whilst continuing to collaborate closely with trusted external partners.
This evolution reflects not abandonment of principles, but maturation of vision. The Friends remain integral, but MB&F now possesses the internal capabilities to push boundaries even further whilst maintaining the collaborative spirit that defines its identity.
Beyond Timekeeping
MB&F’s creative universe extends far beyond wristwatches into realms that defy easy categorisation. The Performance Art pieces, beginning with a unique HM2 collaboration with Los Angeles artist Sage Vaughn at the 2009 Only Watch auction, established a new paradigm for horological artistry. The JwlryMachine, created with Parisian jewellers Boucheron, transformed the HM3 into a high-jewellery owl of extraordinary beauty.
Subsequent collaborations have included partnerships with designers like Alain Silberstein and James Thompson, artists such as Huang Hankang and Cassandra Legendre, master engraver Eddy Jaquet, and even established manufactures like H. Moser & Cie and Bulgari.
Perhaps most remarkably, MB&F’s collaboration with L’Epée 1839 revolutionised the forgotten art of table clocks. Their rockets, jellyfish, robots, and spiders transformed desk accessories into conversation pieces, proving that mechanical art could find new audiences in unexpected forms. Music boxes with Reuge, writing instruments with Caran d’Ache, and rocket-shaped magnifying loupes further expanded this universe of mechanical wonder.
Building Community: The Tribe
Understanding that exceptional products deserved an exceptional community, MB&F created The Tribe—a global network of collectors united by shared appreciation for horological artistry. Every registered owner becomes a member, gaining access to insider privileges including early M.A.D.Editions access, matching Minimilian figurines, and invitations to exclusive Gatherings hosted by Max and the team.
This wasn’t mere marketing; it was recognition that watches at this level represent more than purchases—they’re investments in shared passion, connections to a community of individuals who understand that true luxury lies not in ostentation, but in appreciation of exceptional craftsmanship.
M.A.D.Editions: The Democratic Revolution
In 2014, Büsser posed himself an intriguing question: could MB&F create something more accessible without compromising its principles? The initial development proved challenging, and the project was shelved. However, the COVID-19 pandemic provided unexpected opportunity for reflection. The concept was revisited, reimagined not as a commercial venture, but as a gesture of appreciation to the Friends and Tribe.
The M.A.D.1 was offered exclusively to 500 trusted collectors at a fraction of typical MB&F pricing. The response was volcanic—watches disappeared instantly, and the broader horological community erupted in frustration at being excluded. Büsser was forced to issue a public apology whilst promising broader availability.
The eventual public launch, limited to a few hundred pieces and allocated through raffle, attracted over 18,000 applicants. This wasn’t simply pent-up demand; it was validation that exceptional design could find audiences beyond traditional luxury boundaries. The subsequent M.A.D.2, launched in 2025, continued this democratic approach to horological excellence.
Spaces for Mechanical Art
Recognising that exceptional timepieces deserved equally exceptional presentation, MB&F opened its first M.A.D.Gallery on Geneva’s Rue Verdaine in 2011. The concept was revolutionary: placing watches alongside other forms of mechanical and kinetic art, creating contexts that elevated both.
The network has since expanded globally, encompassing full-scale M.A.D.Galleries and compact MB&F Labs. Each space, designed by Voltige Design & Architecture, features sculptural interiors, domed displays, and the distinctive blue lens that inverts the world as visitors pass by. These aren’t merely retail spaces; they’re temples to mechanical artistry.
Looking Forward: The Third Decade
As MB&F enters its third decade, the creative torch passes to a new generation. Alongside Max Büsser and Eric Giroud, Berlin-based designer Maximilian Maertens, who began as an intern in 2017, now co-leads creative projects. The first Büsser-Maertens wristwatch, due in 2026, represents both continuity and evolution.
The August 2024 partnership with Chanel, acquiring a 25% minority stake, provides long-term security without compromising independence. This alliance joins MB&F with F.P. Journe and Romain Gauthier in Chanel’s haute horlogerie portfolio, ensuring the brand’s future whilst maintaining its essential character.
The Enduring Madness
Twenty years after that first sketch became reality, MB&F has fundamentally transformed independent watchmaking. They’ve proven that transparency, collaboration, and unbridled creativity aren’t merely admirable qualities, they’re essential ingredients for lasting success. Each Horological Machine, Legacy Machine, and co-creation stands as evidence that when technical mastery meets childlike wonder, the results transcend conventional boundaries.
MB&F has never been merely about watches; it’s been about inspiring others to pursue their own impossible dreams. In an industry often paralysed by reverence for tradition, they’ve demonstrated that the future belongs to those brave enough to reimagine what’s possible. The madness, it seems, has only just begun.
And perhaps that’s precisely as it should be. For in a world increasingly dominated by the sensible and the safe, we need those willing to chase impossible dreams. We need the mad ones, the dreamers, the builders of mechanical poetry. We need MB&F.