The Sartory-Billard SB04-E “Small Bang” Limited Edition stands as a dazzling fusion of Japanese ancestral craft and contemporary horological intent, exclusive to Martin Pulli. It emerges not just as a machine for measuring hours, but as an evocation of the cosmic – a wrist-bound fragment of creation rendered in mother-of-pearl and steel, conceived by French designer Armand Billard and executed through the artistry of the indomitable Tatsuya Todo, master of Yamanaka lacquerware.
Sartory-Billard has rapidly become a force among independent watchmakers, embracing the dialogue between technical prowess and exceptional craft. With the SB04-E “Small Bang”, the maison brings Japanese Raden, a method of inlaying mother-of-pearl into lacquer, to the fore. This synergy is not merely aesthetic; it is a homage to chaos, to light, to the inimitable singularities that define bespoke watchmaking. There is a quiet confidence in the restrained steel case, a generosity in the art that sweeps across the dial, and a clear reflection of Billard’s vision for watchmaking: that each watch should mark more than time, but presence, experience, origin.
Each SB04-E “Small Bang” dial is a unique, hand-wrought explosion of iridescence, driven by the genius of Tatsuya Todo, better known as Kosetsu. Born in Kaga City in 1954 and custodian of a fragile heritage, Todo’s work on each dial encompasses days of patient labour, guided by decades of mastery. Ultra-thin strips of mother-of-pearl radiate from the centre in a hypnotic, graphic burst reminiscent of a cosmic origin, interrupted only by the delicate, floating fragments set under the sapphire minute ring. These are not simply decorative, but kinetic: light and shade ripple across green or violet inlays, depending on edition. Every dial is non-replicable, a living canvas bursting with unpredictable chaos and beauty. No industrial process can compete with the slow, deliberate poetry of Raden; each fragment is cut, inlaid and polished by hand, the outcome singular and breathtaking.
Two editions grace the collection. The Green Edition is alive with energetic greens and turquoise, a nod to the first shoots of spring, while the Purple Edition is a study in mystery, overlaying deep violets and blues in a manner that conjures the night sky. Both find their complement in corresponding rubber straps and an additional stainless-steel bracelet, the change between them effortless thanks to quick-release pins.
Within the SB04-E beats the Swiss-made La Joux-Perret automatic calibre G101. This movement operates at a robust and reliable 4 Hz, yielding a power reserve of some 68 hours, ample for the daily demands of a connoisseur’s wrist. The calibre is supplied with a tungsten rotor, enhancing efficiency and maintaining durability over the long term. While some previous Sartory-Billard models posed decorated bridges and rotors, the “Small Bang” channelled its focus upon the artistry of the dial, but the movement remains a thoroughly precise piece of engineering. The G101’s finish can include subtle Côtes de Genève striping on the bridges and a matte texture on the tungsten rotor, a nod to classic haute horlogerie, visible through the sapphire caseback. Its hacking seconds and robust winding character ensure the experience is not merely tactile, but functionally rewarding, driven by the watchmaker’s own hand in adjustment before delivery.
The case of the SB04-E “Small Bang” stands as an exercise in elegant restraint and ergonomic intent. Measuring 39.5 mm in diameter and crafted from stainless steel, its alternating brushed and polished finishes provide a seamless interplay of light across architecturally clean facets. The design incorporates a slight curvature to hug the wrist, slim yet muscular, with thoughtful transitions between polished bevels and satin-brushed case sides. A wide, polished bezel frames the art on the dial but never seeks to overpower it. The caseback is enhanced by nuanced finishing, utilising polished, brushed and blasted details, completed with Torx screws for even pressure and visual appeal. For practicality, a screw-down crown ensures water resistance to 100 metres, reflecting the watch’s capacity to traverse both formal and adventure-driven environments. The luminous hands and indexes remain legible across all conditions, and the overall construction has a sense of robustness balanced by effortless refinement.
Comfort on the wrist is paramount: Sartory-Billard’s ergonomic design finds echoes in the subtle dips between lugs and bezel, while the quick-release bracelet and rubber strap system allows the wearer to transition between sartorial sophistication and casual ease in mere moments, no tools required.
The Sartory-Billard SB04-E “Small Bang” for Martin Pulli achieves a rarefied air in contemporary independent watchmaking. It is both a technical object and a statement of craft, distilling the drama of cosmic creation down to a dial alive with shifting light, an unrepeatable fusion of French design vision and Japanese artisanal mastery. In the hands, on the wrist, it is discreetly luxurious: slim, wearable, infinitely captivating as light pirouettes across its surface, anchored confidently by the La Joux-Perret G101’s measured ticking. This is not merely a collector’s trinket, but a fragment of art and tradition, deliberately singular, yet designed for daily enjoyment.
With only ten pieces per shade produced for this edition, finding one is a collector’s triumph. The “Small Bang” does not simply adorn a wrist: it encapsulates the unpredictable poetry of cosmos and chaos in miniature, a brief eternal captured in steel, shell, and patience.
