The Bell & Ross BR-X3 collection represents a fascinating evolution in the French brand’s aviation-inspired design language, pushing their iconic square-cased instrument watches into a bold new dimension. After experiencing these timepieces firsthand, I can confidently say that they demonstrate Bell & Ross’s commitment to advancing both technical prowess and aesthetic sophistication whilst maintaining their fundamental DNA.
The extraordinary journey of the BR-X Collection
The BR-X designation has become synonymous with Bell & Ross’s most experimental and technically ambitious projects since its inception. This specialist “X” series began its journey in 2014 with the BR-X1, a groundbreaking 45mm skeleton chronograph that established the experimental nature of the collection. The BR-X1 represented the brand’s foray into high-end complications, featuring skeleton dials and advanced materials like ceramic and titanium.
Following the success of the inaugural model, Bell & Ross expanded the experimental narrative with the BR-X2 Skeleton Tourbillon Micro-Rotor in 2018. This exceptional piece elevated the collection into haute horlogerie territory, demonstrating that the brand’s aviation-inspired aesthetic could successfully house complex mechanical complications whilst maintaining their instrument watch philosophy.
The BR-X5, launched in 2022, marked a significant milestone by introducing the first Kenissi manufacture movement to the Bell & Ross stable. This model applied the experimental treatment to the BR-05 collection, creating a more urban and contemporary interpretation of their signature design codes. The BR-X5’s success paved the way for what we see today with the BR-X3, which brings this same experimental approach to the iconic BR-03 collection.
The letter “X” serves as a symbol of performance and modernity across industries, particularly in aerospace where it often denotes special projects and cutting-edge development. For Bell & Ross, the X series represents their most advanced level of sophistication within the professional range, inviting enthusiasts to explore new horological realms whilst maintaining the functional integrity that defines their brand identity.
Sophisticated dial architecture
The BR-X3’s dial construction represents a masterclass in layered complexity and functional design. Both variants feature a revolutionary three-plate system that creates exceptional visual depth whilst maintaining the practical legibility essential to instrument watches.
The Black Titanium variant showcases a matte grey metallic structure that frames the dial’s X-shaped design with remarkable precision. This metallic framework incorporates applied indices embedded within a wide 60-minute graduated flange, creating a sophisticated interplay between function and form. The structure elegantly frames the date window positioned at 3 o’clock and the power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, demonstrating Bell & Ross‘s commitment to practical complication placement.
The Blue Steel variant presents an entirely different character through its sunray-finished blue background that evokes celestial travel and aerospace aesthetics. The X-shaped metallic decoration receives meticulous attention to detail – polished on the edges for refinement and micro-blasted on top to emphasise the watch’s technical heritage. This dual finishing technique creates visual interest whilst maintaining the instrument watch’s utilitarian character.
Both dials benefit from generous applications of white Super-LumiNova X1, providing green emission for optimal legibility in low-light conditions. The applied metallic indices, numerals, and skeletonised hands receive this luminescent treatment, ensuring that these timepieces function as genuine instruments regardless of lighting conditions. The large date display shows three numerals simultaneously, corresponding perfectly with the movement’s impressive 70-hour power reserve capability.
The angled inner flange on both variants features cutouts on its periphery that frame the applied markers, adding yet another layer of visual depth to these already complex constructions. This attention to three-dimensional dial architecture demonstrates Bell & Ross‘s evolution from simple instrument readings to sophisticated horological displays.
The technical heart: BR-CAL.323 Movement
At the core of both BR-X3 variants beats the BR-CAL.323, an automatic mechanical movement that represents a significant technical advancement for Bell & Ross. This calibre, developed exclusively by Kenissi for the brand, operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers an impressive 70-hour power reserve.
The movement’s construction reflects modern watchmaking excellence, featuring a free-sprung balance wheel with adjustable weights for precise regulation. Unlike traditional balance cock constructions found in many movements, the BR-CAL.323 employs a balance bridge configuration that provides superior stability and performance. This technical choice demonstrates the quality upgrade that Kenissi movements represent over Bell & Ross‘s previous reliance on ETA and Sellita calibres.
The calibre’s finishing reflects its manufacture status with careful attention to decorative elements. The rotor features an open-worked design that allows visual access to the movement’s architecture through both variants’ exhibition casebacks. The Black Titanium model employs a tinted sapphire caseback that complements its stealth aesthetic, whilst the Blue Steel variant uses clear sapphire to showcase the movement’s mechanical beauty.
Chronometer certification by COSC guarantees the movement’s precision within strict tolerances, whilst the exceptional five-year warranty demonstrates Bell & Ross’s confidence in the calibre’s long-term reliability. This extended warranty period represents a significant upgrade from the brand’s traditional two-year coverage, made possible by the superior quality of the Kenissi movement.
The movement powers a comprehensive display including hours, minutes, seconds, date indication, and power reserve display. The large date mechanism requires significant torque to advance its overlapping discs, yet the BR-CAL.323 maintains its impressive power reserve whilst supporting this complication alongside the continuously operating power reserve indicator.
Revolutionary Case Construction
The BR-X3’s case represents perhaps the most significant innovation in this collection, introducing a completely new “sandwich-style” construction that reimagines how Bell & Ross can approach their signature square case design. This multi-component, multi-layered, and multi-material architecture measures 41mm in width and creates exceptional structural integrity whilst enabling unprecedented material flexibility.
The construction employs two plates – top and bottom – that secure all components together through four prominent screws that traverse the titanium plates, middle case, bezel, and caseback. This modular approach allows Bell & Ross to experiment with different material combinations whilst maintaining the visual coherence of their design language.
The Black Titanium variant demonstrates the system’s capability for creating sophisticated material contrasts. The case utilises micro-blasted Grade 2 titanium plates with exceptional finishing quality. The black colour continues from the perforated rubber strap through the case itself, forming a distinctive black band that runs between the grey titanium layers. This creates a striking visual effect that emphasises the watch’s multi-layered construction.
Creative Director Bruno Belamich explains the philosophy behind this approach perfectly: “This multi-layer design lets us mix materials, colours, and finishes.” The modular construction enables future variations using different material combinations, potentially incorporating ceramic, precious metals, or other advanced materials whilst maintaining the fundamental architecture.
The Blue Steel variant showcases the system’s versatility through its combination of satin-finished and polished steel surfaces. The decorative side pillars and bezel ring utilise anodised blue aluminium with micro-blasted finishing – a material choice that aerospace enthusiasts will recognise from Apollo 11 crew flight suit connection systems. This historical reference demonstrates Bell & Ross‘s continued commitment to authentic aviation inspiration.
Both variants feature crown guards that protect the screw-down crown, whilst maintaining water resistance to 100 metres. The crown guards receive specific finishing treatments – black DLC coating for the titanium variant and matching steel finishing for the blue variant – demonstrating the attention to detail that this construction method enables.
The case construction also incorporates rubber elements around the circular bezel, adding both visual interest and functional grip. These rubber accents complement the integrated strap design and reinforce the tool watch character whilst adding contemporary design elements that distinguish the BR-X3 from traditional BR-03 models.
The Future of Functional Luxury
The Bell & Ross BR-X3 collection succeeds brilliantly in advancing the brand’s core mission whilst embracing contemporary horological excellence. These timepieces demonstrate that functional design need not sacrifice sophistication, and that innovation can enhance rather than compromise fundamental design principles.
The partnership with Kenissi has clearly elevated Bell & Ross‘s technical capabilities, providing movements that match the ambition of their case construction and dial complexity. The BR-CAL.323’s five-year warranty and COSC certification provide confidence that matches the visual impact of these remarkable timepieces.
Both variants offer distinct personalities that will appeal to different enthusiasts. The Black Titanium variant – Ref. BRX3R-BL-TI/SRB 8,400 € – provides stealth aesthetics with lightweight comfort, perfect for those who appreciate technical innovation in a more subdued package. The Blue Steel variant – Ref. BRX3R-BLU-ST/SRB 7,400 € – embraces its role as a contemporary statement piece, combining aerospace inspiration with luxury finishing that makes it equally at home in professional or social settings.
The modular case construction opens exciting possibilities for future variations, suggesting that the BR-X3 collection will continue evolving with new material combinations and finishing treatments. This flexibility ensures that Bell & Ross can continue innovating within their established design language whilst meeting evolving market preferences.
These watches represent Bell & Ross at their finest – maintaining their instrument watch DNA whilst embracing the technical and aesthetic possibilities that modern watchmaking offers. The BR-X3 collection proves that aviation inspiration remains as relevant today as it was when the BR-01 revolutionised watch design twenty years ago, and that evolution and innovation can enhance rather than compromise design integrity.
