The long-dormant American watchmaking icon BENRUS has awakened from its slumber, bringing with it the storied legacy that once graced the wrists of Steve McQueen, JFK, and countless servicemen who trusted their lives to Swiss precision wrapped in rugged American determination. Founded in 1921 by the Lazrus brothers in Manhattan, the brand’s renaissance under new leadership represents not merely a nostalgic exercise but a calculated return to the fundamental principles that made BENRUS indispensable on battlefields and Hollywood soundstages alike.
The 2025 collection stands as a disciplined homage to military specifications whilst incorporating contemporary watchmaking standards. This review examines the technical execution of six distinct references that form the backbone of BENRUS’s contemporary offering: the faithful DTU-2A/P reissue, the expanded DTU-2A variants, the mil-spec compliant Type 1 and Type 2 models, and the cinema-famous #3061 series.
Charming, Vintage
The aesthetic philosophy governing BENRUS dial design remains steadfastly utilitarian, prioritising legibility and functionality over decorative flourish. Each timepiece employs a distinctive ‘sterile’ dial configuration devoid of superfluous branding, a design ethos born from military necessity where maximum legibility and minimum reflective signature were paramount concerns.
The DTU-2A/P reissue faithfully reproduces the original’s austere black dial adorned with luminous Arabic numerals at cardinal positions, complemented by a precise minute track and dual-time scale displaying both 12 and 24-hour formats. This configuration enabled synchronized operations amongst military personnel, particularly crucial for special forces units where timing coordination measured in seconds could determine mission success.
The Type 1 continues this legacy of functional minimalism with its distinctive marker arrangement: a triangular marker at 12 o’clock, rectangular indices at quarters, and pointed markers elsewhere. The micro-blasted surface treatment eliminates unwanted reflections whilst maintaining optimal contrast between markers and background. The Type 2 adopts a more standardised military configuration with small triangular luminous markers positioned at each hour, embracing the traditional 12/24-hour military format that became standard across various defence branches.
The #3061 series, famously worn by Steve McQueen in “Bullitt,” presents a civilian interpretation of the military aesthetic. The dial retains the essential character of its battlefield cousins whilst introducing subtle refinements suitable for street wear. This model bridges the gap between tactical necessity and civilian sophistication, embodying the crossover appeal that made BENRUS watches desirable beyond military circles.
Robust Movements
The mechanical heart of the BENRUS collection showcases a thoughtful marriage of Swiss manufacturing excellence with American functional requirements. Each model employs proven ETA calibres, modified and assembled to meet specific performance criteria established by decades of military service.
The compact DTU-2A/P houses the ETA 2671 automatic movement, a 25.6mm calibre chosen specifically for its compatibility with the historically accurate 34mm case dimensions. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, this movement provides a 42-hour power reserve whilst maintaining the dimensional constraints necessary for authentic reproduction. The original DTU-2A/P utilised the BENRUS DR 2F2 movement, a 17-jewel calibre based on the ETA 2370 and modified with crucial “hacking seconds” functionality that enabled precise time synchronisation for coordinated military operations.
The expanded DTU-2A variants and both #3061 references employ the robust ETA 2892 automatic movement, a proven 25.6mm calibre delivering 42 hours of power reserve. This movement choice reflects contemporary reliability standards whilst maintaining appropriate sizing for the cases. The 2892’s architecture provides enhanced shock resistance and temperature stability compared to its vintage predecessors, addressing the demands of modern military and civilian use.
The Type 1 and Type 2 mil-spec models utilise the same ETA 2892 foundation, though configured to meet stringent MIL-W-50717 military specifications. These requirements encompass shock resistance, magnetic field immunity, temperature stability, and water resistance performance that exceeds civilian timepiece standards. The movements undergo specific regulation procedures to ensure chronometric performance within military tolerance ranges—specifications that remain classified but are known to be considerably tighter than Swiss chronometer standards.
Traditional Cases
Case construction represents the most significant evolution between vintage and contemporary BENRUS models, with modern manufacturing techniques enabling improved water resistance and durability whilst maintaining authentic proportions and aesthetic character.
The DTU-2A/P reissue employs a 34mm sandblasted 316L stainless steel case measuring 10.90mm in height—dimensions that precisely match the original military issue timepiece. The sandblasting process creates the distinctive matte finish that prevents reflective signature whilst providing enhanced grip security. The screw-down crown ensures 10 ATM water resistance, representing a substantial improvement over the original’s basic water protection. The 18mm lug width accommodates both the included brown leather Bund strap and NATO-style fabric strap, maintaining compatibility with military-specification straps.
The enlarged DTU-2A variants increase case diameter to 38mm whilst maintaining the essential design language. Available in stainless steel with black PVD coating and bronze PVD finishes, these models address contemporary wrist preferences whilst preserving historical aesthetics. The bronze version develops natural patina over time, creating individual character that evolves with wear—a feature appreciated by collectors seeking authentic aging characteristics.
The Type 1 and Type 2 models employ 39.5mm cases measuring 14.40mm and 13.70mm in thickness respectively, engineered to achieve exceptional 36.5 ATM water resistance (365 metres) for the Type 1 and 20 ATM for the Type 2. This represents a substantial improvement over the original Type 1’s 30 ATM rating whilst maintaining the distinctive crown guard configuration that enabled silent underwater operations. The Type 1’s innovative “monocoque” construction, where movement, dial, and hands insert from the top before crystal and bezel sealing. It provides enhanced structural integrity and water resistance compared to traditional three-piece case architecture.
Both Type models incorporate fixed spring bars to prevent accidental strap loss during operations, a detail that demonstrates the brand’s continued attention to military-derived functional requirements. The cases undergo parkerisation treatment, an automotive-grade metal phosphatisation process that provides superior corrosion resistance and durability compared to standard steel finishing techniques.
The #3061 series utilises 39.5mm stainless steel cases measuring just 9.95mm in height, creating an elegantly proportioned profile suitable for both casual and formal wear. The exhibition sapphire caseback, absent from military models for obvious security reasons, provides visual access to the ETA 2892 movement, acknowledging the civilian market’s appreciation for mechanical artistry. This model achieves 10 ATM water resistance, appropriate for daily wear whilst avoiding the tactical specifications unnecessary for civilian applications.
All contemporary models feature double-domed sapphire crystals with double anti-reflective coating, representing a substantial upgrade from the original acrylic crystals used in vintage military timepieces. This enhancement improves legibility under varied lighting conditions whilst providing superior scratch resistance and optical clarity.
Authentic
The resurrected BENRUS collection succeeds in its primary objective: delivering authentic military heritage wrapped in contemporary reliability. The technical execution demonstrates sophisticated understanding of both historical accuracy and modern performance requirements, creating timepieces that honour their battlefield origins whilst meeting current expectations for precision and durability.
Each reference serves a distinct purpose within the collection hierarchy. The DTU-2A/P reissue provides uncompromised historical authenticity for collectors seeking genuine military heritage. The enlarged DTU-2A variants offer contemporary proportions whilst maintaining tactical aesthetics. The Type 1 and Type 2 models deliver genuine military-specification performance for professionals requiring battle-tested reliability. The #3061 series bridges military functionality with civilian sophistication, carrying the cachet of Hollywood glamour alongside battlefield pedigree.
The collection’s greatest strength lies in its restraint. Where many military-inspired watches succumb to theatrical excess, BENRUS maintains the disciplined functionality that originally made these designs indispensable tools rather than mere fashion accessories. The technical specifications reflect genuine military requirements rather than marketing hyperbole, creating watches that could genuinely serve in their intended roles whilst appealing to civilian enthusiasts who appreciate authentic purpose-driven design.
Under the leadership of industry veterans including Vincent Perriard, Michael Sweeney, and Ion Schiau, BENRUS has positioned itself for sustained growth beyond nostalgic reissues. The forthcoming Project Type 3X, developed in collaboration with active special forces personnel, suggests the brand’s commitment to evolving military requirements rather than simply mining historical archives. This forward-looking approach, combined with the establishment of Swiss manufacturing facilities in La Chaux-de-Fonds, indicates BENRUS’s serious intentions for long-term market presence.
The collection represents successful brand resurrection through genuine understanding of what made the original timepieces indispensable. In an era saturated with military-inspired fashion watches, BENRUS delivers the authentic article: timepieces engineered for purpose, proven in service, and worthy of the trust placed in them by those who face genuine consequences for equipment failure.
