DOXA SUB 200T Aquamarine Sunray Dial Review

Reading Time: 5 minutes

The DOXA SUB 200T is a compact 39 mm dive watch that debuted in April 2024 in the SUB line with fresh colours, combining the brand’s patented safety bezel with a practical Swiss automatic movement tuned for daily reliability and real‑world diving. Built in 316L stainless steel to 200 metres with a choice of Iconic or Sunray dials and either the hallmark beads‑of‑rice bracelet or an FKM rubber strap, it refines the SUB design for modern wrists without losing the tool credentials that define the series. Today we have a look at the SUB 200T Aquamarine Sunray Dial Ref. 804.10.241S.25 on strap.

Sunray finish on a suberb sky colour

The sunray-finished dial executes light manipulation through directional brushing that radiates from the centre, creating dynamic colour variation dependent on viewing angle and ambient illumination. This Aquamarine variant employs turquoise lacquer applied to achieve depth whilst maintaining legibility under varying conditions. The sunray treatment differentiates itself from the Iconic dial option, which presents a flat, anti-reflective surface prioritising consistent readability over visual dynamism.

Dial architecture follows functional hierarchy. Hour markers consist of painted rectangular forms, each filled with white Super-LumiNova photoluminescent material. The luminous compound comprises strontium aluminate doped with europium and dysprosium, absorbing electromagnetic radiation between 200-450nm and re-emitting stored energy as visible light through phosphorescence. Charge retention extends several hours following activation, though intensity diminishes progressively. The hands – a broad minute hand dominating the hour hand according to DOXA convention – receive identical luminous treatment. A sqaure lollipop-style seconds hand with luminous insert completes the display.

The date aperture resides at 3 o’clock within a framed window. Text placement follows asymmetric distribution: “DOXA” and “automatic” occupy the 10:30 position, whilst “SUB 200T” and “aquamarine” appear at 4:30. An outboard minute track painted along the dial periphery provides precise time measurement reference.

Robust and reliable

The SUB 200T houses a Sellita SW200-1 automatic calibre, though DOXA‘s technical documentation refers only to “Swiss automatic movement with exclusive DOXA decorations”. This omission of manufacturer identification follows industry practice amongst several brands utilising third-party ébauche movements.

The SW200-1 represents Sellita’s direct equivalent to the ETA 2824-2 another well known, universal used calibre, sharing identical fundamental specifications. The movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz frequency), delivering eight semi-oscillations per second. Power reserve reaches approximately 38 hours from full wind, positioning it below contemporary standards but adequate for daily wear with regular use. The calibre incorporates 26 jewels within its construction.

Functional capabilities include bidirectional automatic winding via ball-bearing rotor, manual winding capacity through the crown, quickset date adjustment, and hacking seconds. The movement diameter measures 25.6mm with 4.6mm height. Anti-shock protection employs either Novodiac or Incabloc systems depending on production batch.

DOXA applies proprietary decoration to the movement, though the extent remains unspecified. Given the closed caseback construction appropriate to a tool watch, such finishing serves manufacturing branding rather than aesthetic display. The movement likely receives Standard or Special grade adjustment – two-position regulation delivering ±12 to ±30 seconds daily deviation for Standard, or three-position regulation achieving ±7 to ±20 seconds for Special grade.

The SW200-1’s widespread adoption stems from proven reliability, comprehensive serviceability through established networks, and drop-in compatibility with cases designed for ETA movements. For a dive watch emphasising functional dependability over horological exhibitionism, this calibre selection demonstrates appropriate engineering prioritisation.

A tool watch with vintage look

The case employs 316L stainless steel throughout its construction. This austenitic steel variant contains 16-18% chromium, 10-14% nickel, and 2-3% molybdenum within its iron matrix. The “L” designation indicates low carbon content (maximum 0.03%), reducing carbide precipitation during welding and improving corrosion resistance. Molybdenum addition provides enhanced resistance to chloride-induced pitting and crevice corrosion, particularly relevant for marine environments.

The material offers practical advantages beyond corrosion resistance. Hypoallergenic properties suit prolonged skin contact, whilst mechanical strength resists impact deformation. Surface finishing accepts varied treatments – the SUB 200T presents circular brushing across the case top surface contrasting with polished flanks. This dual-finish approach provides visual interest whilst the brushed surfaces better mask minor scratches accumulated through use.

Case architecture follows DOXA‘s cushion form with horizontal chamfers delineating the junction between vertical sides and horizontal surfaces. The tonneau profile with abbreviated lugs contributes to the compact lug-to-lug measurement, enabling the watch to articulate closely against the wrist rather than projecting outward.

The unidirectional bezel executes 120 clicks through its rotation, providing precise 30-second interval positioning. The bezel surface carries DOXA‘s patented dual-scale system: an inner black count-up timer and outer US Navy no-decompression limit table for calculating safe dive duration at specific depths. Bezel grip derives from knurled edges providing adequate purchase for manipulation whilst wearing gloves.

Crystal specification calls for sapphire with anti-reflective coating. Sapphire (crystalline aluminium oxide) rates 9 on Mohs hardness scale, providing exceptional scratch resistance. The anti-reflective treatment typically employs vacuum-deposited layers of materials such as magnesium fluoride, creating destructive interference for reflected light waves whilst permitting transmitted light through constructive interference. This coating improves dial legibility under direct illumination but introduces vulnerability to scratching, as the coating itself possesses less hardness than the underlying sapphire substrate.

The screw-down crown features DOXA‘s fish logo inlay colour-matched to the dial. Water resistance reaches 200 metres (approximately 660 feet), suitable for recreational diving within sport diving limits but reduced from the 1,200-metre rating of the SUB 300T. The caseback employs screw-in construction with embossed sailboat design. But let’s be honest, it is more than enough for the most of us…

The folding clasp incorporates wetsuit extension mechanism operated through secondary pushers, permitting on-the-fly adjustment. Construction quality receives mixed assessment across reviews – the design delivers comfort and historical authenticity, yet clasp tolerances produce some rattling from internal component clearances.

Conclusions

The DOXA SUB 200T Aquamarine Sunray Dial executes its brief as an accessible dive watch prioritising wearability and value proposition. At €1,590 on bracelet, the timepiece positions €400 below the larger SUB 300T whilst delivering comparable capability for recreational diving applications. The 39mm case dimension addresses contemporary preferences for moderate sizing whilst maintaining legibility through generous dial aperture relative to case diameter. The presented model, the SUB 200T Aquamarine Sunray Dial Ref. 804.10.241S.25 is priced at €1,550, making it an exceptional bang for the buck. Or better said, a good value for the money.

We spend more than a week with this piece, along with the SUB 300, visible in some of the pictures, and exchanged wrists (between Diana and me). We both enjoyed it. The attractive price makes it trully usable as an everyday watch without the fear of expesive repaires in case of accidents or recommendet service. In sum: comfortable to wear, with a gorgeous colour that plays with light, unpretentios companion, a watch you can count on.

DOXA has crafted a diving instrument that respects the brand’s heritage established since 1967 whilst accommodating current market realities. The SUB 200T neither revolutionises dive watch construction nor attempts innovation for its own sake. Instead, it represents thoughtful dimension optimisation of an established design, rendering accessible a formula that functions precisely as intended.