Chopard’s recent L.U.C special editions elevate watchmaking to a profound union of haute horlogerie and the artistic soul of Japan, blending ancestral crafts with technical mastery. This remarkable series invites a closer look at the harmonious convergence of sophisticated mechanics and the refined touch of traditional artistry, each piece a tribute to both Swiss and Japanese excellence.
L.U.C Full Strike Spirit of the Warrior
The L.U.C Full Strike Spirit of the Warrior stands as an expressive, singular creation, where every surface resonates with artistic and martial symbolism. The dial reveals the formidable menpō mask of a samurai, with intense expressions that command the centre. The caseband flourishes into a continuous tableau, capturing dynamic combat scenes intertwined with serene moments, evoking the perpetual interplay between warrior discipline and spiritual pursuit. Protective oni ogres and evocative samurai motifs are all intricately hand-engraved, while the bezel is adorned in patterns reminiscent of Edo-period armour, further rooting the piece in Japanese heritage.
The calibre 08.01-L minute repeater inside is a technical tour de force, distinguished by its use of a monobloc sapphire crystal for both the dial cover and the gongs. This construction, patented by Chopard, allows the sound to radiate with a truly unrivalled purity, celebrated for its resonance by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Security in handling is assured by an ingeniously disengaging striker mechanism, preventing mishandling and guaranteeing flawless chime sequences, while a dedicated strikework barrel stores enough power for twelve full sequences. The bridges and mainplate, cast in ethical white gold, are meticulously decorated, stylised waves flow across them, and the power reserve indication and unique lion motif round out the homage to Japanese tradition. Every detail, down to the engraved peony on the crown, is conceived to exude strength and poise within this singular 42.5 mm, 18-carat ethical white gold case.
L.U.C XP Nihonto
Uniting the sophistication of Swiss watchmaking with the revered legacy of Japanese swordsmiths, the L.U.C XP Nihonto’s dial is crafted using damascened steel, forged methodically by hand in the manner of tamahagane, the sacred steel of nihontō swords. The swirling moiré patterns evoke flames and the elusive concept of impermanence, with each of the 25 examples boasting its own distinctive aesthetic spirit.
At its heart lies the L.U.C 96.41-L, an ultra-thin, self-winding movement with a 22-carat gold micro-rotor and two barrels arranged in Chopard’s Twin configuration. Its 3.30 mm thickness belies the 65-hour power reserve it delivers, while each bridge is adorned in Côtes de Genève and hand-chamfered. Through the sapphire caseback, the eye is rewarded with a showcase of Poinçon de Genève finishing. The 40 mm case in ethical white gold features polished and satin-brushed surfaces, complementing the steel dial’s dynamic presence, a compelling tribute to the mastery required of both the swordsmith and watchmaker.
L.U.C XP Sakura by Night
Celebrating the refined nocturnal thrill of cherry blossoms, the L.U.C XP Sakura by Night presents a scene inspired by Dayū Matsuyama’s kabuki theatre kimono. The dial’s backdrop is rendered with delicate guilloché and translucent lacquer, catching and refracting light in a fashion reminiscent of sakura trees at dusk. Into this landscape, sculpted mother-of-pearl cherry blossoms blossom in relief, each hand-tinted and set with diamonds at their heart. Openworked gold and diamond flowers complete the visual symphony, combining Japanese lyricism with Swiss precision in enchanted three-dimensionality.
The movement, L.U.C 96.23-L, is decorated with the traditional Fleurisanne engraving technique. Its white gold bridges become a floral canvas, where a gilded cherry blossom motif is painstakingly revealed through a combination of gilding and selective pointillage. All this mechanical artistry is housed in an ultra-thin 35 mm, 18-carat ethical yellow gold case set with diamonds, a microcosm of poise and translucence, with a 65-hour autonomy and visible refinement throughout.
L.U.C XP Urushi Ukiyo-e
With the L.U.C XP Urushi Ukiyo-e, artistry steps beyond the European sphere into the heart of Japanese lacquerware. Each dial is hand-lacquered by a master of maki-e, using Urushi sap and gold powder to evoke a print by Katsushika Hokusai, where Mount Fuji ascends serenely above Tago Bay. This scene, positioned thoughtfully in the upper dial segment, provides a mindful space unperturbed by the march of the hands.
Beneath the lacquered dial, the L.U.C 96.41-L beats with quiet assurance and precision. The 18-carat ethical yellow gold case measures 40 mm in diameter, with a satin-brushed midsection and polished bezel reflecting the subtle play of light. As with all fine L.U.C creations, the movement is finished to the exacting standards of the Poinçon de Genève, with Côtes de Genève decoration and a micro-rotor in 22-carat gold, driving the twin-barrel system for reliable, extended performance.
L.U.C Quattro Spirit Series: Enso, Meditating Daruma, Samurai Last Stand
The L.U.C Quattro Spirit series takes on the art of Grand Feu enamel in limited editions honouring Japanese philosophy and iconography. The Enso dial is imbued with the meditative strength of the Zen circle, rendered in luminously fired black enamel. The Meditating Daruma conjures the legendary monk’s unyielding spirit in restrained minimalist brushstrokes, while the Samurai Last Stand pays homage to resilience through a rare ‘tattered battle fan’ motif, a poignant reminder of determination.
All three editions repose within 40 mm cases of ethical white or rose gold with soothingly rounded contours, reminiscent of historic pocket watches. The L.U.C 98.06-L powers each piece, flaunting an eight-day power reserve courtesy of Chopard’s own Quattro system with four barrels. The movement, just 4.85 mm thick, offers a jumping hour display with an exhibition caseback revealing finely decorated bridges, swan-neck regulators, and the coveted Poinçon de Genève on both movement and case. The dials achieve visual depth and complexity through carefully layered enamel and platinum or gold motifs, each edition strictly limited and each dial, a singular act of art.
Closing Perspective
Chopard’s mastery of both horological complexity and artistic finesse is at its zenith in this series. Each creation, shaped by exceptional materials and rare crafts, speaks both to the enduring values of the past and the ever-evolving language of contemporary watchmaking. In these watches, the boundaries between tradition and innovation, mechanical precision and poetic artistry, converge seamlessly, offering collectors objects that are at once technically thorough and emotionally resonant.
