The re-emergence of the Daniel Roth name signals a welcome return to the world of refined horological artistry. The Tourbillon Platine, inspired by the iconic Tourbillon 2187/C187 of 1988, stands as a distinguished hallmark of the brand’s renewed commitment to haute horlogerie, blending tradition and innovation in its elegant execution. This contemporary iteration continues Daniel Roth’s philosophy: “La Montre Objet d’Art”, a timepiece that exists as an objet d’art by virtue of its design, craftsmanship and mechanical virtuosity.
Structure, Craftsmanship and Palette
The dial of the Tourbillon Platine projects the quiet grandeur necessary in high watchmaking. Composed of solid white gold and finished in an anthracite grey, the dial provides a visually arresting yet sophisticated backdrop for Daniel Roth’s signature linear guilloché, meticulously engraved using a line-cutting engine operated entirely by hand. This particular method not only brings a vivid sense of depth and texture, but also reflects the enduring spirit of the manufacture, with every stroke the direct result of a master guillocheur’s hand.
Time is marked using a sterling silver 925 disc for the hour and minute indications, with the same precious metal employed for the seconds scale, thoughtfully divided into three sectors. Daniel Roth’s emblematic “moustache” adorns the dial, representing the brand and the individuality of each timepiece through its unique number. Each of these elements is created separately; their edges are adorned with fine fluting achieved through traditional guilloché techniques. Notably, the moustache’s complex, curved profile demanded a dedicated tool for its production, an evidence of ingenuity and a nod to uncompromising attention to detail.
All dial components are manufactured entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, where restored vintage machinery and seasoned artisans give rise to a tableau that requires up to three days’ work for each piece. The results speak with quiet conviction, a beautifully traditional composition balanced by modern restraint. Black-coated steel hands sweep above this intricate dial, enhancing legibility and allowing the dial’s artistry to remain the focal point.
Calibre DR001, Tradition Refined
At the heart of the Tourbillon Platine lies the calibre DR001, a shaped movement developed in tandem with Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, co-founders of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Daniel Roth’s association with the tourbillon runs deep, dating to his period at Breguet, where he was responsible for their first tourbillon wristwatch. This complication became the cornerstone of his independent marque, and the DR001 pays homage to Roth’s relentless pursuit of traditional watchmaking virtues.
Comprising 206 hand-finished components and 19 jewels, the DR001 is built with reverence to the original but benefits from distinct enhancements. Precision finishing is visible throughout, from the black polished steel and rounded anglage to the fine côtes de Genève, all echoing the dial’s line guilloché. Even the hidden parts are decorated, a practice reserved for the purist’s appreciation and a tactile confirmation of the maker’s expertise during winding and setting.
Noteworthy is the movement’s practical refinement: an increased power reserve of 80 hours and reduced thickness, rendering the watch more elegant and wearable. Three polished gold chatons secure the gear train rubies, with certain details remaining concealed, inviting discovery by future connoisseurs. The Tourbillon Platine features a sapphire exhibition back, offering views of this mechanical marvel, unlike the solid-backed Souscription model.
Double Ellipse, Masterful Evolution
Faithful to the double ellipse form created by Daniel Roth in 1988, the Platinum Tourbillon case is a masterclass in restraint and evolution. Crafted from platinum, a material long venerated for its mass and rarity, yet daunting for its intractability, the case underscores Daniel Roth’s devotion to exceptional watchmaking. The use of platinum in the brand’s contemporary chapter revives this noble metal’s association with pieces of consequence.
The case measures 38.6 x 35.5mm and stands at a refined 9.2mm thickness. The double ellipse combines squared and circular forms in a unique silhouette that remains instantly recognisable, having achieved the status of an icon, both for its aesthetic innovation and functionality as a housing for complex mechanisms. Key details, including the subtle groove traversed by the longest of three seconds hand branches, pay homage to the original C187, maintaining continuity without resorting to mere replication.
Subtle refinements in the new iteration include hand-soldered lugs, now more ergonomically curved for improved comfort, and a slimmed-down case, a benefit of the DR001’s compact architecture. Sapphire crystals, both on the dial side and caseback, provide durability and a clear view of the movement. The watch is finished with a calf leather strap, complementing its overall sophistication.
Ending and Conclusion
Daniel Roth’s Tourbillon Platine, 185,000 CHF (Excl. taxes), enriches the maison’s collection with an audacious yet understated piece, connecting the house’s golden past with a vision for its future. Its dial is a canvas for artisanal guilloché, the calibre DR001 a testament to contemporary watchmaking’s finest standards, and the platinum double ellipse case a tangible link between the brand’s heritage and its modern aspirations.
La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton’s involvement ensures an unbroken chain of technical virtuosity. Each watch stands as an authentic reflection of Daniel Roth’s design codes and philosophy, a rare synergy of mechanical depth and aesthetic purity. The Tourbillon Platine, in its limited edition, projects a discreet exclusivity. It is a celebration of the enduring art of horology, destined for aficionados and collectors with a keen appreciation for integrity, rarity, and tradition.
