Roger Dubuis’ Hommage La Placide arrives as a soulful revival, marking the Maison’s 30th anniversary with a timepiece reflecting both historical mastery and modern ingenuity. Limited to 28 numbered pieces, this creation stands not only as a tribute to Roger Dubuis himself but as a poignant synthesis of haute horlogerie, layering original and remanufactured components to breathe new life into the revered Hommage line.
The dial of La Placide tells its own tale, unfolding across five discrete layers and exuding the evocative expressivity characteristic of Roger Dubuis. Foremost is the Biretrograde display, a favourite complication of the Maison’s founder, which sees the calendar hands sweep smoothly along expansive semicircles only to snap back in synchronised retrograde motion. Each layer of the dial offers distinct character. The flange, treated to circular brushing and rhodium coating, exhibits transferred numerals and an articulate minute track, illuminated by finely polished angles. The calendar segments below are fashioned from mother-of-pearl, edged by hand-bevelled sides that amplify their lustre. The main plate stands out in Leman Blue, a nod to Lake Geneva, and is lacquered for exceptional depth, while the hour markers catch the light with their applied presence. Counters, also mother-of-pearl, display a broader circular brushing, their text elegantly transferred. Completing this orchestration is the moonphase disc, sculpted from blue aventurine and adorned with domed moons in rich yellow gold, capturing the nocturnal poetry the Maison so admires. The hands set the tone: hours and minutes crafted in pink gold with alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces, while the retrograde hands are brass with a pink gold coating to assure optimal movement and reduced mass.
Inside beats the Calibre RD1472, where the blend of past and present emerges most vividly. This self-winding movement combines the historic RD14 base with the RD72 module renowned for its perpetual calendar complication. Originally debuted in 2004, RD14 returns after comprehensive refurbishment; the movement incorporates swan neck regulators for precise adjustment and shock resistance, and retains Roger Dubuis’ in-house balance springs, a badge of horological distinction. The RD72 module, first integrated in 1999, introduces a perpetual calendar capable of day, date, month, leap year, and moonphase displays. Two innovative star-shaped wheels facilitate simultaneous month and leap year readings, operated by co-axial hands.Press-Release_Roger-Dubuis-Presents-A-Modern-Revival.pdf
Calibre RD1472 comprises 307 parts, with 33 jewels and a pink gold rotor truly emblematic of Roger Dubuis’ pursuit of excellence. The movement measures 12 lignes in diameter and stands 5.3 mm tall, beating at a brisk 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offering 48 hours of autonomy. A remarkable 15 decorative techniques enrich the architecture: wheel-bevelling, tool-bevelling, rounding, circular graining, snailing, Geneva stripes, mirror polishing, teeth and tip polish, perlage, truing, internal and external drawing, frosting, and burnishing. Each finish is bestowed with fastidious care, attesting to the artisans’ virtuosic command. Meeting the evolved Poinçon de Genève requirements, the movement was both meticulously calculated for optimal performance and painstakingly set to fulfil current chronometric standards, as these now encompass not only the calibre but the watch as a whole.
Encasing this mechanical marvel is a case crafted from 18K pink gold, measuring 38 mm in diameter and 11 mm thick. Its silhouette presents confident elegance by way of a generous open case back, inviting scrutiny of the calisthenics within. Rated for 3 bar (30 metres) water resistance, the watch is sufficiently fortified for daily wear while maintaining a decisively luxurious ethos. Fastened to the wrist with a blue calf leather strap, interchangeable by way of spring bars with spurs and finished with Roger Dubuis’ emblem, the ensemble is completed with a triple folding buckle, also fashioned from pink gold. This blend harmonises aesthetic warmth with technical prowess. Accompanying the watch is a collector’s box, dedicating space to essentials such as a corrector, magnifier and certificates of both authenticity and Poinçon de Genève. Each element underscores the Maison’s commitment to craft, exclusivity and legacy.
Hommage La Placide – € 140.500 – does more than mark three decades of the Maison, it embodies an ongoing dialogue between tradition and exuberant modernity. Biretrograde displays return centre stage, their kinetic artistry mirroring the pulse of Geneva’s watchmaking heritage. The multilayered dial stands as a visual memoir, while the RD1472 movement reveals a panorama of technical refinement and decorative virtuosity. From the warmth of its 18K pink gold case to the layered sophistication of its display, this timepiece achieves a unique synthesis: heritage honoured, but never frozen, continually revived for contemporary connoisseurs and the spirit of watchmaking itself.
