The Biver Automatique Collection unveiled at Dubai Watch Week 2025 emerges as a compelling evolution of Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver’s vision, articulating a refined dialogue between traditional craftsmanship and contemporary watchmaking. This new series asserts itself through a distinctive aesthetic identity that honours natural materials and artisanal techniques, while accommodating the brand’s continuous architectural and technical innovation.
The new releases present a varied yet cohesive visual language. There’s a marked emphasis on natural stones and traditional crafts that elevate the watches from mere time-telling instruments to canvases of watchmaking art. The collection includes dials crafted from richly hued materials such as mahogany obsidian, œil de fer, blue quartzite, and lavender jade. These surfaces exhibit diverse finishes ranging from highly polished, deep reflections to matte and semi-matte textures, each imparting visual depth and organic complexity. A notable innovation is the introduction of guilloché with Clous de Paris on a deep blue sunray-finished dial, an elegant nod to horological heritage executed by hand on century-old machines. Additionally, grand feu enamel dials in dark grey and bordeaux suggest a modern interpretation of this classical technique, presented with restrained aesthetics yet enhanced by yellow gold luminous plots, integrating dress watch sincerity with sporty legibility.
At the heart of the Biver Automatique beats the calibre JCB-003, developed alongside Dubois Dépraz. This automatic movement is a powerful yet sophisticated engine, housed in a 30.6mm by 4.0mm frame, ticking at a frequency of 3.5 Hz (25,200 vibrations per hour). Its architecture is deliberately expansive to showcase exquisite finishes: guilloché patterns, black polish, and anglage are applied meticulously to each visible surface. Featuring a 22k gold micro-rotor that winds bi-directionally, the calibre offers a robust 65-hour power reserve and a zero-reset seconds mechanism for precision setting. The finishing extends to matching the colour tone of the wheels to the case metal, with yellow gold wheels for yellow gold models and pink gold wheels for rose gold and platinum variants, enhancing harmony within the watch’s internal aesthetics.
The cases uphold these sophisticated nuances with dimensions set at 39mm in diameter, 10mm thickness, and a lug-to-lug length just under 48mm, striking a versatile balance suited for wearer comfort. Constructed predominantly in 18k rose gold, yellow gold, and platinum, the cases exhibit polished, satin, and mixed metal finishes, complementing the dial tones with subtle contrasts such as in the two-tone model blending 18k rose gold with a lighter palladium-rich white gold dial alloy. Sapphire crystals with inner anti-reflective coatings ensure clarity for every dial variation, while exhibition casebacks allow unhindered views of the artfully decorated calibre. Each model provides sensible water resistance to 80 meters, reinforcing their practical appeal without compromising elegance.
The collection’s strap options adapt to each model’s character, ranging from Pomari calf leather and rustic nubuck to marine Fuwari calf leather or Alcantara, paired with matching 18k gold or platinum pin or deployant buckles. The option of matching metal bracelets adds further versatility, underscoring Biver’s intent to combine classic craftsmanship with modern luxury demands.
In sum, the 2025 Biver Automatique collection marks a sophisticated chapter that deepens the brand’s distinct aesthetic while pushing the boundaries of artisanal decoration and technical refinement. It stands as a compelling proposition for collectors drawn to the tactile beauty of natural materials, the skill of historic techniques like guilloché and enamel, and the solid promise of a technically forward automatic calibre. The deliberate marriage of tradition and innovation in these watches is likely to resonate well within the dynamic, growing markets of Dubai and beyond, affirming Biver’s place as a brand to watch.
This collection does not just signify evolution but an organic maturation of Biver’s design language, echoing through every nuanced dial, movement finish, and case detail. It is a confident yet measured statement that appeals both on aesthetic and mechanical grounds, offering a quietly compelling answer to those seeking a finely crafted daily companion. The Biver Automatique in 2025 is where natural artistry intersects with robust horology, rendered with a refined economy of means and unmistakable style.
