The horological world is no stranger to grand statements, yet every so often, a creation emerges that genuinely redefines the boundaries of watchmaking artistry and mechanical ambition. Vacheron Constantin, upon the occasion of its 270th anniversary, presents an outstanding manifestation of its pursuit of excellence in the form of the Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication High Jewellery – Moon Dust. The piece is not only a celebration of the Maison’s rich heritage but also a tribute to the scientific wonders underpinning the watchmaker’s art, embodied by the great astronomers and their ceaseless quest to model the skies. As the name suggests, this double-sided timepiece fuses intricate mechanical complexity with the highest traditions of decorative craftsmanship, presenting a poetic interpretation of a celestial journey from Earth to the Moon.
The presentation of the dial is breathtaking in its execution and narrative, uniting three core artistic disciplines in perfect harmony. Vacheron’s artisans have lavished the front with a radiating hand-guilloché pattern, overlaid by a deep blue PVD coating that conjures the immensity and mystery of the cosmos. The effect is further accentuated by a refined black opaline border and counters that gently echo the sparkle of diamonds set along the case. Every detail here encourages the gaze to linger, from the finely crafted white gold appliques used for the hour markers to the elegance of the hands, all executed in 18K white gold.
Notably, the perpetual calendar indications are nestled within three subdials, positioned at three, nine, and twelve o’clock, providing the date, day, and month respectively. At six, an aperture invites the wearer to admire the tourbillon’s mechanical ballet, emphasising the profound technical accomplishment at the heart of the watch. The entire dial, in its intricate orchestration of form and material, evokes the romance of astronomical discovery and the quest to measure the heavens.
Turning to the movement, Vacheron Constantin has chosen to develop and manufacture the extraordinary Calibre 2755 GC16 for this unique timepiece. This hand-wound mechanical marvel combines sixteen distinct complications, each one an assertion of mastery. All are regulated by a tourbillon whose cage, shaped as the Maison’s emblematic Maltese cross, completes a full rotation each minute and elegantly doubles as a small seconds indicator.
The perpetual calendar is deftly executed, requiring no adjustment until the secular year 2100, while the leap year indication and repeater torque are thoughtfully displayed. Power reserve indications reside at nine o’clock, integrated with the day counter. The minute repeater is particularly remarkable, utilising an ingeniously silent rotating regulator, equipped with two weights that apply centripetal force to regulate the energy released. This results in a striking mechanism whose chimes unfold with crystalline purity, their musical sequences beautifully paced and free from mechanical discord.
Astronomical complications are prominent, with civil, solar, and sidereal time all accounted for. The equation of time chart, sunrise and sunset times for a chosen city, a sidereal disc displaying observable constellations from the Northern Hemisphere, and precise indications for zodiac signs, seasons, and solstices, all come into play. The moon phase and age are expressed in tandem, allowing the wearer a rich and nuanced reading of the skies. In total, Calibre 2755 GC16 is composed of 839 components, with 42 jewels, measuring 33.90mm in diameter and 12.15mm in thickness, and offering a power reserve of 58 hours. The movement vibrates at 18,000 per hour, its architecture a showcase of horological virtuosity and expert miniaturisation.
The case, crafted in hand-engraved 18K white gold and set with a formidable array of diamonds, continues the celestial theme masterfully. The front bezel is adorned with a double row of baguette-cut stones, the reverse with a single row, while the lugs and clasp are similarly set. Snow-setting covers the case middle and lugs in brilliant-cut diamonds, a visually stunning effect reminiscent of moon dust, giving the piece its evocative name.
Engravings evoke radiant sunbeams bursting through clouds above Earth on one flank, while on the opposite, the planets are etched as observed from the Moon. The use of taille-douce engraving imparts depth and texture, with incisions ranging from a subtle 0.1 millimetres to the more pronounced contours at 0.5 millimetres. Between the lugs, comet trails and the Milky Way are conjured by a combination of engraving and pavé setting, amplifying the cosmic narrative.
The 47mm diameter, 19.10mm thick case is substantial but proportioned perfectly to house the movement and to ensure optimal resonance for the repeater’s chimes. The unique folding clasp in 18K white gold continues the theme, set with precision-cut diamonds. The strap, in dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with hand-stitching and saddle-finish, completes the presentation with a touch of refined luxury.
In closing, the Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication High Jewellery – Moon Dust stands as an unparalleled demonstration of Vacheron Constantin’s devotion to both technical and artistic perfection. The watch is a narrative of human curiosity, ingenuity, and the never-ending pursuit to understand and encapsulate the universe. The piece is a worthy tribute to the astronomers and dreamers who shaped the course of horological history, ushering the wearer on a journey from Earth to Moon, with the full spectacle of the cosmos unfolding upon the wrist. The Maison’s motto, “do better if possible, and that is always possible”, finds eloquent and luminous expression in this magnum opus of contemporary watchmaking.
QUESTIONS FOR SANDRINE DONGUY, HERITAGE & STYLE DIRECTOR
What best characterises the Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication High Jewellery – Moon Dust watch? It is a highly complicated piece, both technically and aesthetically, engaging three artistic crafts. On a technical level, it’s important to highlight the feat of miniaturisation required to create a movement barely 12.15 mm thick, comprising more than 800 components and incorporating 16 complications, including a minute repeater and a tourbillon regulator. This is especially notable, given that a tourbillon cage, as well as the gongs and hammers for the repeater, are components that take up considerable space. Ultimately, the dimensions of the case – 47 mm in diameter by 19 mm in height – are entirely appropriate for the complexity of the mechanism as well achieving musical resonance. It illustrates the challenges met by Les Cabinotiers, whose mission is to offer timepieces that are technically innovative in their complications and captivating in their interpretation of the decorative arts.
What do the artistic crafts tell us? When observing the engraving and gem-setting work on the case flanks, one cannot help but find parallels with 19th-century iconography. At that time, people dreamed of space conquest and interstellar travel. The intervention of artistic crafts is essential to give this watch its character. The combination of gem-setting, engraving and guilloché on a watch powered by this movement transforms this instrument for measuring time and astronomical observation into a fascinating narrative.
Why choose astronomy as the theme for this series of timepieces celebrating Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary? It is one of three themes, along with great conquerors of the ancient world and the legend of Heracles, chosen to illustrate ‘The Quest’. Astronomy was chosen because of the fundamental role this science has played in the history and development of watchmaking, and also because of the Maison’s recognised expertise in this field. Watchmaking is the daughter of astronomy and opens infinite fields of creativity. Since its foundation, Vacheron Constantin has distinguished itself through its commitment to astronomical complications, whether in the form of calendar indications, the movement of the stars or multiple representations of time. This inclination to translate the laws of the universe into mechanical data has given rise to pieces that are now part of watchmaking history. The Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication High Jewellery – Moon Dust watch is a worthy successor to this legacy, displaying civil, solar and sidereal time with the movement of the constellations in real time.
