Introducing Czapek & Cie Quai des Bergues Sursum Corda, N° 33, and N° 25

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The Czapek Quai des Bergues collection carries with it a particular significance in 2025, marking not only the Maison’s 180-year legacy since François Czapek’s establishment in Geneva in 1845, but also the decade of its contemporary rebirth. This latest iteration, presented in three distinct expressions, represents the culmination of Czapek’s journey back to its foundational principles: a pursuit of refined simplicity coupled with the patient craftsmanship that defined nineteenth-century watchmaking: Czapek’s Quai des Bergues Sursum Corda, N° 33, and N° 25.

The new releases come at a moment when such values feel necessary. In an industry increasingly preoccupied with complications and technical one-upmanship, Czapek‘s commitment to returning to its roots carries an unexpected weight. The Maison‘s philosophy of seeking beauty without attempting to define it remains intact, and these new Quai des Bergues pieces embody that ethos with a sincerity that transcends commercial motivation.

The Dials: A Conversation Between Past and Present

Each of the three watches presented here bears a white grand feu enamel dial, that particular surface finish which remains one of watchmaking’s most exacting disciplines. Grand feu enamelling demands a mastery that few ateliers still possess; the process involves layering and firing materials at extreme temperatures, where variables of kiln temperature, humidity, and timing determine the final character of the surface. The pristine white finish achieved here recalls the aesthetic codes of Czapek‘s original collection, yet the execution carries contemporary precision.

The layout of the dial adheres to the signature design language established by the historical pocket-watch reference 5350. The small seconds subdial sits at 7:30, whilst the power reserve indicator occupies the 4:30 position, with the new models incorporating weekday indication at the same location. This decentred arrangement, particularly with two functional elements sharing space rather than dominating separate zones, demonstrates remarkable restraint. The dial breathes, uncluttered by excessive visual information.

Czapek‘s elongated Roman numerals grace each dial, a faithful interpretation of historical lettering that extends vertically with particular elegance. These numerals carry the authentic character one discovers in nineteenth-century pocket-watch designs, avoiding the brittle precision that too often characterises modern attempts at period revival. The proportions feel natural rather than forced.

The blued steel hands, offered in two distinct forms on the standard N° 33 and N° 25 (but fixed as the classical Fleur-de-Lys design on the Sursum Corda edition), derive their colour through traditional heat-bluing processes. The Fleur-de-Lys design carries historical significance, evoking the heraldic traditions of classical watchmaking, whilst the contemporary arrow option provides collectors with flexibility without compromising the classical proportions of the overall composition.

The Sursum Corda version introduces layered storytelling through concealed elements. The Latin phrase “Sursum Corda” (Lift up your hearts) remains visible solely when light strikes the enamel surface at certain angles, a deliberate choice that rewards patient observation. Below the dial surface lies the laser-engraved “10/180” logo, commemorating both the decade since Czapek‘s modern resurrection and the 180 years since François Czapek‘s original founding. Within the small-seconds subdial sits a faithfully reproduced signature drawn from Geneva’s archives, representing the original founder’s own hand. These hidden elements transform the dial from a simple timekeeping instrument into an intimate conversation between owner and maker.

The Movement: Architecture Across Two Centuries

The Calibre SXH1 powering each of these watches merits extended consideration, as it represents Czapek‘s most coherent statement regarding contemporary haute horlogerie philosophy. This hand-wound mechanical movement draws upon the architectural principles of mid-nineteenth-century pocket watches, adapted and refined through contemporary understanding of horological engineering.

The movement measures 32 millimetres in diameter, spanning 14 lignes and a quarter, with a height of 4.75 millimetres. The total component count reaches 160 pieces, with 31 jewels positioned throughout the gear train. The frequency stabilises at 3 hertz, translating to 21,600 vibrations per hour, a standard cadence that positions the movement within classical horological proportion. This measured pace, less frenetic than contemporary complications pursuing higher frequencies, aligns with Czapek‘s philosophy of restraint and endurance over relentless velocity.

The most distinctive element of this movement’s design lies in its double-barrel construction, a rarity in contemporary watchmaking. Rather than pursuing the extended power reserves through innovative gear arrangements or complicated wheel trains, Czapek has selected the direct approach: two separate barrel springs working in tandem. This architecture delivers a power reserve exceeding 168 hours (seven full days), providing what the atelier characterises as genuine practicality for weekly winding. The reference to Sunday winding practices in the nineteenth century feels particularly apposite; this design choice acknowledges historical practice whilst solving modern ownership expectations.

The variable inertia balance wheel ensures chronometric stability across the power reserve’s entire duration, preventing the rate changes that often accompany the decline of spring force in conventional single-barrel configurations. The movement thereby delivers consistent accuracy regardless of when the watch was last wound.

The finishing execution deserves particular attention. Czapek‘s finishing specification recalls mid-19th century aesthetic choices rather than contemporary haute horlogerie extremism. The bridges remain open over the gear train, a design choice that facilitates production whilst allowing visual appreciation of the mechanism’s complexity. Double open ratchets, a feature one encounters in period pocket-watch designs, appear here with contemporary precision. The sandblasted bridges and main plate establish a refined background against which the remaining elements perform their visual role.

Heat-blued screws, a labour-intensive finishing technique involving exposure to controlled heat sources until oxidised steel achieves the desired colour, grace the movement. These screws require no lacquering or painting; the blue colour emerges from the molecular transformation of the steel itself. Each screw then receives hand-chamfered bevelling, where the edge receives attention from a craftsperson’s tool until the corner softens and catches light with precision.

Circular graining adorns the wheels, where a specialist tool creates concentric circles across the wheel’s surface through repeated patient motions. This finishing exists primarily for aesthetic appreciation when viewing the movement through a display caseback; it serves no mechanical function. The fact that Czapek undertakes this labour for elements visible only to the owner or repairer reveals something about their approach to craftsmanship: the finishing occurs because correctness demands it, not because consumers necessarily observe it.

Sand-blasted surfaces, where fine particulates strike metal at high velocity to create a diffused texture, appear throughout. This finishing catches and scatters light in ways that reflect the hand-finished aesthetic of historical pieces without the irregularities that result from purely manual techniques. The balance between mechanical consistency and artisanal character appears carefully calibrated.

Snailing patterns, where concentric spirals emanate from a central point across a surface, appear on various wheel components. This classical finishing, established in pocket-watch manufacture centuries ago, establishes visual rhythm and catches light in ways that flat polishing cannot achieve. The pattern’s regularity suggests contemporary execution whilst its aesthetic function remains rooted in historical tradition.

The Cases: Proportion and Material Philosophy

The three watches employ distinct case materials yet share identical dimensional proportions, a choice that reveals Czapek‘s thinking regarding design hierarchy. All three cases measure 40.5 millimetres in diameter, with lug-to-lug distances of approximately 47.7 millimetres and thickness of 11.9 millimetres (though the perceived thickness registers as a more slender 9.5 millimetres due to careful case profile design).

The 40.5-millimetre diameter represents a deliberate sizing choice, positioned between the original Quai des Bergues wristwatches’ 42.5-millimetre case and the later 38.5-millimetre option. This proportion balances modern wrist considerations against classical dial legibility, a thoughtful compromise that acknowledges contemporary wearing preferences without abandoning the classical case-to-dial ratios established in the original collection.

The Sursum Corda edition selects 5N rose gold, an alloy specification that denotes 18-karat gold of particular purity and consistent colour. The rose tone introduces warmth without the aggressive copper saturation one encounters in certain rose-gold formulations. This material choice commands a certain restraint; the gold renders itself evident through subtle warmth rather than aggressive declaration. The case receives curves at the crystal interfaces, allowing the light to travel across the case side with fluidity rather than encountering sharp transitions.

The standard N° 33 follows identical specification in 5N rose gold, maintaining the Sursum Corda’s material character whilst reserving the distinctive dial secrets for the anniversary edition. This rose-gold version positions itself as the contemporary continuation of the collection’s classical lineage.

The N° 25 introduces stainless steel into the equation, a pragmatic material choice that extends accessibility without compromising the fundamental design approach. Stainless steel, requiring no surface treatment and responding well to both polished and brushed finishing, has served watchmaking for decades. The steel case integrates fully with the grand feu enamel dial; the material relationship feels entirely natural rather than representing compromise or cost reduction.

All cases feature curved sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment applied to the inner surface, a specification that optimises visibility without introducing the visual complications that external anti-reflective coatings sometimes produce. The caseback similarly employs sapphire with identical anti-reflective treatment, providing access to the movement’s finishing without distortion.

Water resistance settles at 50 metres, appropriate for a watch conceived for daily winding rather than aquatic adventure. This specification reflects realistic expectations regarding a classical dress watch; deeper water-resistance figures would introduce complications to the case construction that the design philosophy explicitly rejects.

The bracelet specification across all three watches selects alligator leather, treated to achieve suppleness and finished with precision pin buckles. The Sursum Corda and N° 33 employ rose-gold buckles matching their cases, whilst the N° 25 receives stainless-steel buckles in corresponding proportion. This attention to material congruence extends throughout; nothing feels extraneous or contradictory.

Reflection and Resilience

The Czapek Quai des Bergues collection in this 2025 incarnation speaks with remarkable clarity regarding what contemporary watchmaking might achieve when it resists the contemporary imperative towards complexity and visual excess. These watches occupy a particular space within the horological landscape, one where restraint constitutes sophistication rather than limitation.

The Sursum Corda edition carries significance beyond its technical specifications. The hidden motto “Lift up your hearts” resonates with particular weight at a moment when watchmaking communities exist across divided worlds. This secret sentence, incorporated at the suggestion of a Czapek team member rather than driven by executive mandate, possesses an authenticity that calculated sentiment cannot achieve. It speaks to resilience without demanding attention, and this understated approach characterises the entire collection.

The brand has consciously rejected the path of technical showmanship, resisting the temptation to pursue ever-greater complications or dubious innovations. Instead, the Maison has invested in understanding the legitimate concerns of watchmaking past and present: how to create pieces that age gracefully, that reward patient observation, and that establish genuine dialogue between craftsperson and owner.

The double-barrel movement architecture, while not revolutionary in historical terms, emerges as genuinely practical within contemporary ownership contexts. The decision to support a seven-day power reserve transforms a watch from an instrument requiring daily engagement into one that respects the realities of modern life. Collectors possess the option to wind weekly without guilt, following historical precedent without abandoning contemporary expectations.

The grand feu enamel dials represent horological values becoming increasingly scarce. In an era of largely scale used printed lacquer and applied indices, Czapek‘s insistence on classical enamelling techniques demonstrates commitment to materials and processes that demand patience and expertise. The subtle variations within each white dial surface reflect this labour; no two examples will possess identical character.

Having another look the Sursum Corda edition, I find myself returning consistently to its understated character. The watch refuses dramatic gestures; it communicates through proportion, material quality, and the patient refinement of classical elements. This approach contradicts contemporary marketing impulses, which typically emphasize visual spectacle and technical superlatives. Czapek instead invites owners into a quieter conversation regarding what constitutes meaningful craftsmanship.

The three watches presented here, the Sursum Corda, N° 33, and N° 25, represent Czapek‘s most coherent statement since the brand’s contemporary resurrection. They stand as future collectibles not because of scarcity or technical innovation, but because they embody a clear philosophical position regarding watchmaking’s legitimate purpose. They are among this year’s finest accomplishments, pieces that will reward collectors for decades of patient observation and regular wear.

Czapek’s Quai des Bergues Sursum Corda, N° 33, and N° 25 Technical Specifications

• Grand Feu Enamel “Sursum Corda” – 36’500 CHF / 39’400 EUR / 51’500 USD
• Grand Feu Enamel N° 33 – 34’000 CHF / 36’700 EUR / 47’600 USD
• Grand Feu Enamel N° 25 – 19’200 CHF 7 20’700 EUR / 26’900 USD

Functions

• Hours & minutes
• Small seconds at 7:30
• Power reserve indication with weekdays at 4:30

Movement

• Calibre SXH1: haute horlogerie proprietary mechanical hand-wound movement
• Power-reserve > 168 hours (7 days) on two barrel-springs
• Variable inertia balance wheel
• Frequency: 3 Hz – 21,600 VpH
• Diameter: 32 mm – 14 lines 1⁄4
• Height: 4.75 mm
• Number of components: 160
• Number of jewels: 31

Finishes

• Bridges open on gear train
• Double open ratchets, sandblasted bridges and main plate
• Heat-blued screws, bevelling, final handchamfering, circular graining and snailing on wheels

Case

• 5N 18k rose gold case / Stainless steel case
• 40.5mm diameter
• Lug to lug (north to south): 47.67mm
• Thickness: 11.9mm (9.5mm perceived)
• Curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on the inside surface
• Sapphire crystal case back with antireflective treatment on the inside surface
• Water-resistance: 50 meters (5 atm)

Dial

• White grand feu enamel dial
• Sursum Corda
  • Secret sentence: “Sursum Corda” at 12:00 and “10/180” at 6:00
  • Secret signature “Czapek” at 7:30
• Czapek elongated roman numerals
• Blued steel Fleur-de-Lys or arrow hands (personalization option)

Strap & Buckle

• Alligator strap with stainless 18k rose gold / steel pin buckle

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