Richard Mille has long positioned itself as an alternative vision within luxury watchmaking, one where technical innovation and feminine expression coexist without compromise. The release of the RM 037 and RM 07-01 represents the brand’s continued commitment to this philosophy, delivering timepieces that deserve serious technical consideration beyond their aesthetic appeal.
Dial Architecture and Material Expression
The dial presentation across these models articulates Richard Mille‘s understanding of how ornament and function might harmonise. Each interpretation features a diamond-paved surface combined with a central ornamental element, options ranging from onyx and jasper to mother-of-pearl, fully set diamonds, or Carbon TPT environments. This layering of materials creates genuine visual depth rather than superficial decoration.
The snow setting technique, employed across several iterations, positions stones of varying dimensions between 0.5 and 1.6 millimetres with micron-precision tolerances whilst maintaining an appearance of randomness. This requires extraordinary craft discipline from the gem setters. When applied to the RM 037 in white gold, the diamond pavé covers bezel and dial continuity, extending through the caseband pillars and bracelet structure itself.
The technical challenge intensifies when diamond setting occurs on Carbon TPT material, where the engagement of prongs into the composite demands specialised tools and adapted methodology. The Intergalactic collection exemplifies this: 181 diamonds across the Richard Mille RM 07-01 Starry Night variant are individually positioned into hand-polished gold prongs before embedding into the Carbon TPT framework, creating what Richard Mille describes as a constellation pattern.
For the more restrained interpretations, such as the RM 07-01 in white gold with baguette-set diamonds, the designer applies tone-on-tone strategy. Here, the geometric linearity of baguette stones creates compositional contrast against the movement’s anthracite finishes, emphasising the relationship between case jewellery and calibre decoration.
Mechanical Contrasts
The CRMA1 calibre, present in the RM 037 variants, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour across its CuBe balance wheel with four arms and four setting screws. Power reserve reaches approximately 50 hours under standard conditions. The baseplate and bridges employ grade 5 titanium subjected to microblasting and electroplasma treatment, conferring rigidity whilst producing precise surface flatness essential to gear train operation.
The skeletonised architecture reveals a fast-rotating barrel completing a full revolution in five hours rather than the conventional 7.5-hour cycle. This geometric acceleration reduces the phenomenon of periodic mainspring adhesion and establishes superior delta curve consistency across the power reserve window. The entire gear train utilises a 20-degree pressure angle, a specification developed specifically for Richard Mille‘s in-house calibres, promoting optimised torque transmission to the balance whilst counteracting thermal expansion discrepancies across normal use.
The CRMA2 calibre powering the RM 07-01 shares philosophical similarities whilst introducing refinement in its variable-geometry rotor construction. This mechanism permits the wearer to adjust inertia according to activity level through repositioning two weights fixed by spline screws. When weights are positioned toward the rotor’s centre, inertia increases and the barrel winds rapidly. When dispersed toward the extremities, inertia decreases and winding occurs at a more measured pace. The rotor itself features 5N red gold forming the external edge ring and weight segment, supported by ceramic ball bearings within the OneWay automatic winding system.
Decoration appears through micro blasted anglage applied to the titanium structures, creating visual texture through controlled surface roughening rather than traditional striping. The visible surfaces, primarily the mainplate and bridges, receive electroplasma treatment producing the characteristic anthracite black coloration that photographs extensively through the sapphire caseback.
Precious and Bold Materials
The RM 037 presents dimensions of 52.63 by 34.40 millimetres with thickness reaching 13.00 millimetres. The tonneau silhouette employs a three-part architecture secured by grade 5 titanium spline screws with abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. The caseband is available in satin 5N red gold with polished pillars, integrates with bezel and caseback materials selected from the brand’s modern material palette. Ceramic variants employ either TPZ black ceramic (maintaining absolute opacity and matte surface consistency) or ATZ white ceramic formed through high-pressure aluminium oxide injection at 2,000 bar, which increases material rigidity by 20 to 30 percent and reduces porosity to negligible levels.
The patented stem-crown assembly removes the crown from direct mechanical connection to the movement. This architectural decision eliminates snapping risk whilst maintaining the integrity of the case seal structure. Two Nitrile O-rings establish water resistance to 50 metres. Sapphire crystals protect front and caseback; the front crystal measures 1.60 millimetres thick whilst the caseback varies between 0.95 millimetres at centre and 1.66 millimetres at outer edges, with anti-glare treatment applied to both surfaces.
The RM 07-01 employs a more compact tonneau expression measuring 45.66 by 31.40 millimetres with thickness of 11.85 millimetres. Case materials encompass ceramic variants in white and black, combined with precious metals in red or white gold configuration. The Intergalactic iterations feature Carbon TPT construction with 5N red gold accents integrated into the bezel and caseband.
Technological Statement
These watches occupy an unusual position within contemporary watchmaking discourse. Rather than presenting themselves as jewellery first and watches second, the RM 037 and RM 07-01 maintain unwavering commitment to horological substance whilst accommodating ornament as a legitimate design consideration. The technical achievement of applying gem-setting methodology to Carbon TPT material represents genuine innovation worthy of recognition. The variable-geometry rotor concept, whilst not entirely novel conceptually, receives execution here that demonstrates genuine understanding of how actuality serves personal preference.
Among the calendar year’s releases, these timepieces have secured themselves as particular favourites. The restraint evident in certain configurations, particularly those employing baguette settings, suggests Richard Mille‘s awareness that maximalism, pursued indefinitely, yields diminishing returns. The marriage of skeletonised mechanical sophistication with contemporary material vocabulary feels honest rather than gratuitous. Wearing one of these watches consistently over recent weeks has revealed the practical intelligence built into their proportions and ergonomic consideration. They occupy the wrist without apology whilst rewarding attentive observation of their technical particulars.
