L’Épée 1839’s presence at LVMH Watch Week in January reaffirmed the manufacture’s position as Switzerland’s preeminent horological design house. Among the presentations stood La Regatta, a vertical timepiece that transcends the conventional boundaries between objets d’art and precision instruments. This review examines the piece through the lens of technical achievement and artistic realisation.
The “dials” of La Regatta present a striking departure from traditional watchmaking aesthetics. Rather than a conventional horizontal layout, the skiff’s hull becomes a canvas for Grand Feu enamelling applied by David Kakabadze Enamel, the world-renowned Georgian atelier. Each variant explores distinct enamelling techniques.
La Regatta Umi employs cloisonné work enhanced with paillons: ultra-thin silver leaves positioned beneath transparent enamel layers, creating luminosity through reflected light. The technique demands extraordinary precision: gold wires finer than human hair form delicate cells, each fired separately at ideal temperatures, occasionally requiring twelve to fifteen successive firings.
La Regatta Blue Horizon employs flinqué enamelling, combining guilloché engraving with translucent enamel to produce optical depth. La Regatta Prism utilises plique-à-jour, the most challenging enamelling methodology in haute horlogerie, whereby translucent enamel fills an ultra-fine framework without solid backing. Each piece presents its own interpretation and character, with firings occurring at 700 to 750 degrees Celsius.
The movement architecture reflects L’Épée‘s engineering philosophy. The in-house calibre operates at 2.5 Hz (18,000 beats per hour), delivering an impressive eight-day power reserve. The gear train aligns vertically along a single axis, as a deliberate choice echoing the rower’s upright posture and the harmony of crew synchronisation. The barrel and escapement occupy opposite ends, establishing visual and mechanical equilibrium reminiscent of the vessel’s stability. With twenty-six jewels and Incabloc protection for the balance, the movement demonstrates mechanical rigour without ostentation. The escapement system ensures precision whilst permitting the vertical architecture to function as central design element rather than subordinate component.
L’Épée 1839 La Regatta Métiers d’Art measures 518 millimetres in height with a 120 millimetre square base. Materials comprise palladium-plated brass, polished stainless steel, and aluminium, with finishing executed in polished, satin brushed, and sandblasted surfaces. This material selection balances durability with the optical requirements of enamel display. The skiff’s form is drawing its slender silhouette from a racing vessel cutting through water. It integrates enamel surfaces that magnify sculptural lines and volumes. The vertical orientation and elongated proportions establish visual harmony between mechanical complexity and spatial elegance.
La Regatta exists as a singular achievement within contemporary horology: a clock designed not as only timekeeping device but as architectural statement about the relationship between sport, craft, and temporal experience. The collaboration with David Kakabadze Enamel (itself rooted in Byzantine and Georgian traditions dating to the eighth century) grounds the work in genuine artisanal heritage. The 8 days power reserve reflects the strength and endurance central to rowing culture, whilst the vertical gear train translates this discipline into mechanical form. Both models are priced at 95’000 CHF.
Collectors approaching this piece should recognise it operates within a philosophical framework distinct from conventional watchmaking. The focus prioritises artistic interpretation and technical sophistication over commercial accessibility. Each variant presents not merely a variation but a distinct artistic vision. For enthusiasts valuing horological innovation paired with genuine craftsmanship, La Regatta represents a significant achievement in contemporary design. The integration of centuries-old enamelling techniques with modern watchmaking precision establishes it as an object of lasting consequence.
