H. Moser & Cie. has never chased trends, but it sets its own pace. The Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic represents a genuine inflection point: the first time in the brand’s nearly 200-year history that it has built an entire watch (case, bracelet, and all) from high-tech ceramic. The result is one of the boldest executions yet from Neuhausen am Rheinfall.
The Streamliner’s six-year rise
When H. Moser launched the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph in January 2020, after five years of development, the concept was deceptively simple: a luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet, designed from the bracelet outward. Inspiration came from the Streamline Moderne aesthetic: the aerodynamic locomotive and automotive designs of the 1920s and 1930s, most notably the 1936 Mercury streamliner, whose flowing curves became the collection’s defining DNA.
What followed was rapid growth. The Streamliner Centre Seconds arrived in August 2020, followed by the Perpetual Calendar, the Tourbillon, and eventually the Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon, limited to 50 pieces. By 2026, the family spans complications from central seconds to chiming watches, all housed in the same cushion-shaped, fluid architecture. The ceramic edition is the latest and most materially adventurous chapter.
A dial that burns through the dark
The dial delivers the highest contrast moment in the entire watch. Moser engraves a hammered pattern onto a white gold base, then applies two enamel pigments, washed, ground, and laid in gradient, before firing them in succession. The process produces what the brand calls a Red fumé Grand Feu enamel dial: incandescent, almost volcanic, and never pixellated. The deep anthracite grey of the ceramic case throws this red into sharp relief, an effect that photographs can barely capture on the wrist.
True to the Concept philosophy, the dial carries no indices, no logo, no text of any kind. The only interruptions are the hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts for legibility in low light, and the generous aperture at 6 o’clock that frames the flying tourbillon. Restraint, here, is a deliberate editorial choice.
The HMC 805: double hairspring architecture
The movement inside is the HMC 805, a 32.0 mm (14¼ lignes) automatic calibre running at 21,600 vph, with a height of just 5.5 mm. Its headline technical feature is the original double hairspring, developed and produced by Precision Engineering AG (PEAG), Moser’s sister company. The two matched springs compensate for the shift in centre of gravity during expansion, improving isochronism and reducing the friction penalty inherent to a single-spring system.
A one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock sits beneath a skeletonised bridge, and the bi-directional pawl winding system drives a power reserve of at least three days. The bridges and main plate carry an anthracite finish with Moser‘s signature double stripes, and the skeletonised oscillating weight uses 18-carat red gold, the single warm-toned element visible through the sapphire caseback, contrasting beautifully against the dark movement architecture.
The ceramic case: a material argument
At 40.0 mm in diameter and 11.0 mm in height (12.8 mm with the domed sapphire crystal), the case proportions sit firmly in the contemporary sweet spot. Moser selected an anthracite grey high-tech ceramic (unalterable, lightweight, and hypoallergenic) and applied finishing by hand: circular satin on the case flanks, vertical satin on the bracelet links, and polished bevels on the edges. The alternating surfaces create a light-play effect that gives the monolithic grey mass unexpected depth and tactile texture.
The integrated bracelet closes with a three-blade folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo, and the screw-in crown features an engraved “M”. Water resistance reaches 120 metres, entirely credible for a complication watch of this price point, and a nod to the Streamliner’s sports watch positioning.
Verdict
The Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic arrives at CHF 89,000 (excluding tax, or approximately CHF 96,200 all-in, or € 112’400.- with all taxes) and joins the permanent collection rather than a limited run. That decision says something important: Moser sees ceramics not as a one-off experiment but as a serious material in its long-term vocabulary. With the double-hairspring HMC 805 inside, a Grand Feu enamel dial that few manufacture-level houses could produce, and finishing that turns a notoriously difficult industrial material into something sensory and hand-crafted, this watch makes a compelling case for why H. Moser & Cie. continues to punch above its 4,000-piece annual production in the independent watchmaking conversation.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic Technical Specifications
Reference6805-2100 – 89’000 CHF excl. VAT / € 112’400.- with all taxes, anthracite grey ceramic model, Red fumé dial, integrated bracelet in anthracite grey ceramic
Functions
- Hours and minutes
Movement
- HMC 805 automatic calibre
- Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
- Height: 5.5 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
- Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
- Skeletonised oscillating weight in 18-carat red gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo
- Power reserve: minimum 3 days
- Original double hairspring
- One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonised bridge
- Anthracite finish with Moser double stripes
- Partially skeletonised bridges
Case
- Anthracite grey ceramic
- Diameter: 40.0 mm
- Height without sapphire crystal: 11.0 mm
- Height with sapphire crystal: 12.8 mm
- Screw-in crown adorned with an engraved “M”
- See-through sapphire crystal case-back
- Water-resistant to 12 ATM
Dial
- Red fumé Grand Feu enamel with hammered texture
- Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts
Bracelet
- Integrated bracelet in anthracite grey ceramic
- Folding clasp with three blades, engraved with the Moser logo
