Panerai and its universe of complications

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Where design and engineering come together, Panerai stands out in the world of high watchmaking complications for its commitment to innovation, technical expertise, and attention to detail. Accurate timekeepers that are also masterpieces of craftsmanship, Panerai’s creations are a testament to its unwavering pursuit of excellence in horology with an Italian soul.

This spirit is embodied through the Maison’s Laboratorio di Idee – innovative technical solutions that pushes the boundaries of watchmaking. The Latin origin of the term ‘laboratorio’ invokes the innovation of the Panerai family, who not only established the first watch workshop in Florence in 1860 but also transformed their family business into a visionary company in continuous growth, etching the Panerai name in horological history.

The ethos of Laboratorio di Idee lies primarily in the research and development department, where the skilled watchmakers and engineers create and refine technical projects that are infused with precision and craftsmanship to adhere to the high standards of the field.

This team of highly specialized professionals works in close collaboration with the design department and draws inspiration from the brand’s historical archives to ensure that every new creation aligns seamlessly with the distinctive identity that characterizes Panerai.

Annual Calendar

Introduced for the first time in the Radiomir collection, it is the first annual calendar complication of Panerai, created with clear and immediate readability in mind. The dial is designed to distinctly display all needed information with the date and day shown at 3 o’clock through two dial openings. The current month is displayed on an external moving disc indicated by a fixed arrow at 3 o’clock. With every month change, a cam in the movement, developed by Panerai, allows the disc to turn in one go, adjusting the information instantaneously.

The mechanism automatically makes the switch between the 30-day and 31-day months. A setting only needs to be done once a year, at the end of February. After setting the month and date, a corrector on the left side of the case allows the change of the day click by click, further highlighting the easy readability and functionality of the timepiece. A sapphire crystal open-back case showcases a fascinating caliber while the sandwich dial features distinguishing codes of the Maison – the months, days, and the name of the complication, Calendario Annuale, are written in Italian.

Emblematic Radiomir details shape its design, cushion-shaped case, signature gradient sun-brushed sandwich dial filled with Super-Luminova® cone-shaped crown, and a 45mm Panerai Platinumtech™ or Panerai Goldtech™ case.

Perpetual Calendar

The Perpetual Calendar is a P.4100 movement, a self-winding mechanical movement crafted by Panerai’s Neuchatel manufacture that pushes the boundaries of the brand. The Maison introduces a new intuitive function where adjustments are made only with the crown allowing changes to the day, date, month, and leap year without using a tool or corrector, including during month-end periods and approaching midnight. The movement features dual barrels and a power reserve of up to three days, with an off-center micro-rotor that winds the movement, measuring only 6.9mm thick for lightness.

Key indications such as month, year, and leap year are visible through the sapphire case back, while additional features include the 12H GMT hand and 24H subdial at 9 o’clock, with small seconds and a day-night indicator. The watch’s dial features elements kept to a minimum, including minutes, hours, day, date, GMT 24H display, and seconds, maintaining the characteristic clarity and simplicity of Panerai’s design. The only indication of the actual degree of complexity within are the words “Calendario Perpetuo.”

The complication is available as Luminor Calendario Perpetuo Goldtech (PAM0742) and Platinumtech (PAM0715).

Skeleton Submersible

The Panerai Skeleton calibre showcases a stripped-down movement, revealing the intricate components that make up its design. The skeletonized structure of the watch is achieved through a sophisticated watchmaking procedure that removes all unnecessary material, drawing attention to the movement’s key components. The watch features a micro-rotor that ensures automatic winding, providing a power reserve of up to 3 days. A GMT function with a second bicolour hour hand and AM/PM indicator is also included, adding to the watch’s functionality.

The design of the Skeleton Calibre draws inspiration from the submersible world and Italian Navy torpedoes. The motors of the movement resemble the motor blades of the torpedo, while the central part of the watch recalls an engine formed by the two small motors. A grid on the back, similar to the grid that protects the torpedo engine, completes the design. The watch’s small seconds at 9 o’clock features a second reset for optimal time setting. An original Panerai creation is the patented polarized date, allowing the numerals to be visible only when passing through the opening without hiding the mechanism. With its skeletonized structure, the watch is notably lightweight, making it functional and stylish.

The Skeleton Submersible models, PAM01240, PAM01283, and PAM01285 are available in Carbotech materials, while PAM01241 and PAM01403 are available in Titanium.

Tourbillon

With the tourbillon, one of the most fascinating complications in watchmaking, Panerai has developed two skeleton calibers to fit bigger and smaller cases, the P.2005 and P.2015/T. The Maison’s patented tourbillon mechanism features a cage that rotates every 30 seconds instead of the conventional one minute along an axis perpendicular to the balance wheel, where errors arising from position changes are compensated better than the standard tourbillon. It is a notable design angled to ensure the movement’s precision and offset gravity’s effects.

The complication is a visual feast complemented by all-new open-worked bridges that enhance the architectural e and visibility of the tourbillon. The watch’s hour hand can be moved with the crown in steps of precisely one hour without moving the minute hand, allowing for an easy complication setting. The watch features an indicator on the back, which shows the power reserve which changes gradually as the spring transmits the stored energy to the train of the movement, thanks to a device created by Swiss master watchmakers. The watch features a second time zone (GMT function) indicated by a central arrowed hand and the 24-hour counter placed at the 3’o clock position with a night or day indicator.

With a sapphire dial, the timepiece’s details appear even more intriguing, as if suspended in a void – the Panerai logo is set in a sapphire crystal background while the flying applied indexes Super-Luminova® illuminates in green in the dark.

The tourbillon movement was first introduced in the Luminor collection and will soon be available also as part of the Radiomir collection.

L’Astronomo

Panerai’s L’Astronomo is a true watchmaking marvel, embodying the brand’s signature DNA while showcasing an impressive combination of high-end complications. A tribute to Galileo Galilei, the inventor of the telescope who pioneered groundbreaking astronomical discoveries, the timepiece is inspired by the precise and detailed drawings of his observations of the moon. Befitting the legendary Gallilei, Panerai interprets the moon phase, a classic high-end watchmaking classic, in its own way to bring life to L’Astronomo.

Its technical features include a patented Tourbillon escapement and polarized date disk, GMT, equation of time, sunrise and sunset indicator, and the moon phase. The watch features a skeletonized black movement with a calendar and month indicator on the front, while the back displays the moon phase, day and night indicator, and power reserve indicator. L’Astronomo is produced on demand with the sunset, sunrise, and moon phase indicators tailored to the client’s chosen city’s latitude and longitude, lending the timepiece a special significance for its owner.

The complication is available as Luminor Moon phases Tourbillon Equation of time GMT 50mm in four case renditions, titanium, titanium DLC, Panerai Goldtech™, and white gold. Clients can choose between different types of hands and between beige and green for the shade of the SuperLuminova®.

Minute Repeater

The Panerai Minute Repeater has a fascinating combination of functions, including a carillon minute repeater with three monoblock gongs and three hammers, which can be set to sound on demand according to the chosen timezone. The watch can also ring at any time by pressing the crown push-piece at 8 o’clock. Requiring over a month’s worth of skilled work by a master watchmaker to achieve the distinct sound of each minute and hour, the timepiece has two complete minute repeater mechanisms and features four securities in the movement and case to protect against mishandling. The watch also has a monoblock case construction that optimizes its acoustic qualities, giving it a distinguished resonance.

The Minute Repeater is produced on demand as a 49mm Radiomir with a black skeleton movement, a patented tourbillon escapement, and a personalized strap. The case is available in different materials, Goldtech, White Gold, and Titanium, with a choice of polished or brushed finishing, different colors for the hands, and a selection of ecru or green for the SuperLuminova®.

Panerai is not the owner of the SuperLuminova® trademark.

Panerai
Founded in Florence in 1860 as a workshop, shop and subsequently school of watchmaking, for many decades Panerai supplied the Italian Navy and its specialist diving corps in particular with precision instruments.
The designs developed by Panerai in that time, including the Luminor and Radiomir, were covered by the Military Secrets Act for many years and were launched on the international market only after the brand was acquired by the Richemont Group in 1997.
Today Panerai develops and crafts its movements and watches at its Neuchâtel manufacture. The latter are a seamless melding of Italian design flair and history with Swiss horological expertise. Panerai watches are sold across the world through an exclusive network of distributors and Panerai boutiques.