Another end of summer, another Geneva Watch Days. The fourth edition featured a greater number of official participating brands, along with some unofficial ones. Once again, the Beau Rivage Hotel and the Montblanc Rotonde played central roles, with additional support from Fairmont, Hôtel d’Angleterre, and other familiar faces. However, for the first time since I’ve been attending these events, I’ve scaled back. Less partying, no working at night: less fun for me (which I don’t regret since I need my beauty sleep), but also fewer press releases for you (which I somewhat regret). Nonetheless, I still had a great time, reuniting with old friends, meeting new ones, and admiring many beautiful watches.
My GWD sessions began with an embargoed piece that will be revealed at the appropriate time. What I can reveal is that hyperhorology and legend intertwine for this new piece, and I am excited to present it to you once the embargo is lifted. So, stay tuned…
I find the aventurine dial as being lovely. Under this name, a large constelation of variants can be created to offer unexpected results. And the aventurine was quite present at GWD this year. One of my favourites is the Perpetual Moon 38 Red Gold. One of the biggest moon phase complication in the industry returned with a 38 mm case fitting a reduced size A&S1612 and a dial to impress.
The next victim of my liking is the DC1 Titanium of David Candaux – a watch where, as the name suggests, titanium is the main character. And I am not talking just about the case, but about the movement as well. Superb finishes and an original and very recognisable design makes the “the bear” of watchmaking a perfect candidate for collectors willing to enjoy some independent “blood”.
Although Bovet 1822 did not participate in the Geneva Watch Days, I had the opportunity to meet two dear members of the Bovet team and finally see the BOVET Récital 12 in person. Incredibly light and offering a comfortable presence on the wrist, the new sports piece impressed me. It wasn’t just the nicely executed finishes, the grandiose architecture, or the bold blue crystal dial – it was the ease of wear and enjoyment that blew my mind. Striking a balance between comfort and appearance, the Récital 12 makes a remarkable presentation.
Unfortunately, I cannot ride motorcycles due to balance issues caused by my inner ear. But I enjoy their sound and understand the passion for them. I have many acquaintances who love riding them, and we even considered buying one for my wife, Diana. So, it’s no surprise when watch brands partner with motorcycle brands for special pieces (I personally love the Breitling/Triumph pieces). For the 30th anniversary of the legendary Ducati 916 motorcycle, Gerald Charles stepped in to jointly create the Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 – a beautiful sporty jumping hours piece housed in a carbon-forged case with a black ceramic bezel and a case back in sandblasted Grade 5 Titanium.
DANIEL ROTH is a name that fascinated my youth years. So being brough back was an imense joy for me. Being able to meet the DANIEL ROTH Tourbillon Rose Gold in the metal was an emotional moment. Thank you Flora for allow me to be the first to enjoy this piece during GWD. Not only the recognisable case and architecture, but the finishes without compromises, the choice of details – superb gentleman piece. I adore it.
When it comes to innovation and perfection in execution, Greubel Forsey is the best way to go. In the Tourbillon Cardan, the two main characteristic of the brand grabed my attention. While most tourbillons have a revolution of 60 seconds, that of the 8th Fundamental Invention is almost four times faster. Just 16 seconds. This is the fastest yet for a Greubel Forsey tourbillon. It moves through more positions in less time, and therefore offers a much higher average performance. Mesmerising in motion, mesmerising in each detail.
De Bethune DB28xs Steel Wheels is one of my favourite “quiet” watches from the brand that tamed the blue in titanium. Although this piece features the “natural” colour of the metal, the architecture is very dear to me. Sized smaller, at just 38.7 mm, the watch comes even more natural on the wrist. The floating lugs paired with this pink strap looks fabulous. The dial bears well the known steel wheels architecture in the new size. I love the top “live long and prosper” bridge and the drive train sticking out. Superb!
Bvlgari released at the end of summer the Aluminium GMT x Fender – a collaboration with the renown legendary guiter maker. Two legends in one modern interpretation. A limited series guitar is also availble… Good looking, light and comfortable on the wrist and a practical complication make the watch a fantastic and fun companion. It is not about superlatives (in which Bvlgari is well versed) but it is about enjoying life and things that bring happiness.
H. Moser & Cie. is no stranger to unusual but powerful collaborations. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit by H. Moser & Cie. and the 03SERIES Passion Fruit by Studio Underd0g are not just about telling time — they’re about making a statement, blending elegance and innovation with a dash of playful rebellion. Lovely colors and exceptional execution intertwine elements of the design language that made both brands beloved, resulting in a captivating pair. And it got everyone talking…
If you followed this Magazine, you should be familiar with the Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer. The fantastic chronometry powerhous is now presented in a 39mm diameter case. The beauty and the brains comes now in “strong essence” bottle. The gear trains where sligtly modified to fit into the new case. And I have to admit it looks fantastic like this (although the biger size was more generous in showcasing the finishes and the architecture of the movement).
Discussing perfection once more, this next gentleman’s piece is a stunner for a specific category of collectors – the Laurent Ferrier Série Atelier VI. First, one must be knowledgeable about watches and cars, appreciate a classic look, and understand the refined beauty of Laurent Ferrier watches. With a subtle case and a sublime brushed dial reminiscent of the ancient art of watchmaking, this piece excels in showcasing a superb movement.
Can we take a moment to contemplate the impressive evolution of MING Watches? I’ve been following Ming Thein’s photographic work since he captivated me more than 15 years ago with a picture of a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. When he and a group of watch enthusiast friends launched MING Watches, I was expecting refinement and originality. But the evolution has blown my mind beyond my expectations. The new MING 20.01 Series 3 is an amazing exercise in elegance and expertise. Please return to the first picture of the article to see this beauty’s spectacular lume show.
My favorite, by far, at the show is the Czapek Antarctique Flying Diamonds. Featuring a unique and patented baguette diamond cut for indexes and a mind-twisting aventurine dial, the Flying Diamonds in two sizes has fascinated and occupied my mind ever since. If we take into account the modern and well-finished movement, we find ourselves with a superb example of independent watchmaking done right. I will come back with an article in which I will try to showcase the beauty of these watches.
I was mentioning, besides aventurine, the color purple as being well represented at GWD 2024. Although I saw several timepieces, some are under embargo and cannot be shown. But from the ones released, this HYT T1 Titanium Purple Millésime Edition draws attention with its spectacular look. The black liquid indicating the hours pairs well with the beautiful purple brushed dial. This sports watch interpretation by HYT gains points for how wearable this concept is.
Daring, innovative, original – Louis Moinet Watches stand out not only for their exceptional executions but also for the originality of material choice. The Speed of Sound utilizes not just one, but two types of meteorites, a superb black guilloché dial, and a rare movement – the legendary Valjoux 88 caliber. The result is a full-fledged work of horological art that combines tried-and-true mechanics with modern technology and avant-garde design – characteristics specific to this exquisite brand.
Last but not least, we have the lovely tourbillon revealed through an aperture in an aventurine dial – the Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture from the Classic Collection, crafted in precious white gold and featuring a desirable complication. I am impressed by Frederique Constant‘s foray into a more Haute Horlogerie direction. It looks good on the wrist, offers a movement from a well-known in-house family, and brings exquisite luxury to a brand that has been more commonly associated with affordability. However, through some technological breakthroughs and clever positioning, the brand is evolving beautifully.
