At the occasion of the 20th anniversary of the Patrimony collection, Vacheron Constantin reveals a new self-winding limited edition, the fruit of a collaboration with long term “One of Not Many” talent Ora ïto

Inspired by a 1957 model, the Patrimony collection launched in 2004 pays tribute to the grand watchmaking tradition, concealing a complex construction beneath its understated aesthetic. The collection’s 20^th anniversary celebration concludes with the new Patrimony self-winding reference in a 100-piece limited edition, the result of a collaboration with designer Ora ïto: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Selfwinding 85180/000J-H069.

Minimalist aesthetics inspired by the 1950s

The 1950s were characterised by the creation of outstanding watchmaking calibres whose slenderness matched the beauty of their construction. Vacheron Constantin‘s ultra-thin manual-winding 1001 and 1003 movements belong to this category. Back in the day they powered References 6179 and 6187 which hold a special place in the history of the Maison. Calibre 1001 measuring barely 2.94 mm thick features a specific construction with five arabesque bridges. This Hallmark of Geneva-certified movement found its place in the category of chronometer-quality calibres thanks to its precision regulator. It foreshadowed Calibre 1003 launched in 1955 to mark the Manufacture’s bicentenary, the world’s thinnest movement (1.64 mm thick) at the time and still regarded as one of the highest-quality manual-winding models ever produced.

Inspired by these creations, Vacheron Constantin launched the Patrimony collection in 2004: stemming from classic traditional watchmaking, it is distinguished by understated design and a rare aura of elegance. During the 20 years following the launch of this now emblematic collection, Patrimony models have never deviated from these principles, typified by a round case with a slim bezel as well as a refined, domed dial with slender, curved applied hour-markers, curved baton-type hands and ‘pearl’ minutes track.

This apparent formal simplicity demands a high level of craftsmanship. The almost invisible dial curvature calls for stamping rigorously accurate to the nearest micron. The same obsessive concern for detail is applied to the curved shape of the hands, hour-markers as well as the ‘pearls’ on the minutes track, with each machined component requiring manual retouching involving the added difficulty of their tiny size.

Such aesthetic sobriety – a paradoxically complex exercise in style – is matched by High Watchmaking mechanisms. The Maison has developed several ultra-thin movements – both simple and endowed with horological complications – such as manual-winding minute repeater Calibre 1731 and self-winding perpetual calendar Calibre 1120, respectively measuring 3.90 mm and 4.05 mm thick.  All the collection’s timepieces are powered by mechanical movements ranging from those driving three-hand displays to others equipped with noble complications, including special displays such as retrograde date and day models.

The result of a longstanding collaboration

According to Ora ïto, “A good design wasn’t created to be disposed of after a period of usage, it is designed around essentials to make it eternal.” The aesthetic worlds of Patrimony and Ora Ïto were made to meet and mingle. The face of the collection since 2019 as part of the “One of Not Many” campaign, the French designer is a longtime admirer of the Patrimony collection, a horological embodiment of his “Simplexity” concept.

A neologism combining two seemingly contradictory notions: simplicity and complexity, Simplexity is the art of proposing a simple response to a complex problem, of giving a simple appearance to an object involving invisible complexity. From architecture to furniture, fragrances, phones and public transport, Ora ïto is known for perpetual reinvention and for focusing resolutely on essentials – perfectly illustrated in the Patrimony self-winding watch.

A signature timepiece

Understated, quintessential and timeless, the new Patrimony self-winding model celebrates the collection’s apparent simplicity.  This 100-piece limited edition features a 40 mm yellow gold case framing a tone-on-tone gold-coloured dial adorned with an infinite number of concentric circles catching the light. This visually simple, circular geometry spreading like a rippling wave echoes the cambered dial surface. Astronomy enthusiast, Ora ïto explains that “this circular movement of light refers to the Baily Pearls, a spectacular phenomenon that accompanies an eclipse of the sun by the moon”. Yellow gold enjoys pride of place: on the applied hour-markers, on the ‘pearl’ minutes track and on the slender, slightly curved hands following the shape of the dial. This multitude of details lend a subtle vintage touch to the watch, as do the date discreetly displayed at 6 o’clock in a tone-on-tone aperture along with the metallic transferred Vacheron Constantin logo appearing beneath the sapphire crystal.

On the reverse, the sapphire crystal caseback reveals in-house self-winding Calibre 2450 with hours, minutes, seconds featuring High Watchmaking, notably including circular graining on the mainplate, Côte de Genève pattern on the bridges and an openworked gold oscillating weight revealing a Maltese cross. The model is paired with a burgundy calfskin strap, punctuated by rectangular shapes with softened angles that reinforce the vintage character of the watch and make a striking contrast with the circular geometry of the case and dial.

Q&A with Sandrine Donguy, Product Marketing & Innovation Director Vacheron Constantin

The choice of yellow gold for this Patrimony self-winding model gives it a vintage feel. What role does this precious metal play in the history of the brand?
Yellow gold naturally holds a special place in the technical, precious and decorative approach to watchmaking art that the Maison has adopted ever since its founding. Within this context, gold and then platinum have been the preferred metals throughout Vacheron Constantin’s history. There have of course been a variety of trends, with yellow gold for example being very popular in the 1960s. In the 1970s, as watchmakers began to introduce steel to a much greater extent, yellow gold maintained a strong presence for Vacheron Constantin. Two iconic timepieces from this period come to mind: the Prestige de la France watch presented in 1972 featuring an asymmetrical trapeze-shaped case in yellow gold; as well as the 222 model with its one-piece tonneau-shaped case, fluted bezel and integrated bracelet in yellow gold. In the late 1990s, white and especially pink gold began to take over.

The Patrimony is celebrating its 20^th anniversary. What is its importance for Vacheron Constantin, both historically and in terms of contemporary creations?
Vacheron Constantin’s history is dotted with timepieces in which the quest for thinness holds pride of place. Our rich archive remains an inexhaustible source of inspiration for our contemporary creations. It is very important that our designers, when working on future products, can maintain the precious link between our heritage and our current collections. When we launched the Patrimony collection 20 years ago, we were strongly inspired by the aesthetics of the 1950s, a decade particularly characterised by refinement and elegance. The Patrimony collection continues this tradition of extreme understatement, confirming Vacheron Constantin’s desire to create watches that are both modern and timeless. Slimness is not just a question of technique, but also a design philosophy that embeds our creations in a rich vein of elegance running through successive ages. The undeniable success of the Patrimony watches can doubtless be explained by this combination of classicism and modernity.

About Ora ïto

Born in 1977, Ora ïto began making a name for himself from the age of 19, by creating imaginary 3D objects for different companies. Since then, he has cooperated on collections for prestigious international brands in the fields of design and architecture. His philosophy, which he calls “Simplexity”, is the art of giving visible simplicity to an object with complex functions. His creations encapsulate the aesthetic codes of a new, yet timeless and universal vision of luxury featuring the same minimalist purity. In 2011, Ora ïto was named a “Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres” in France. In 2013, he created the MAMO “Marseille Modulor” art centre in Marseille, France and then staged exhibitions with major artists such as Xavier Veilhan (2013), Daniel Buren (2014) and Dan Graham (2015). His most recent achievements include the new tramway inaugurated in Nice, France in 2016; the ICO chair unveiled at the Milan Furniture Fair; along with six of his iconic pieces joining the permanent collection of the Pompidou Centre in Paris. The year 2017 notably featured the new-gen Yooma ‘urban lodge’ near the Eiffel Tower, on which Ito cooperated with artist Daniel Buren.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Selfwinding Technical Specifications

Reference 85180/000J-H069 – 38,200€ RSP in Germany

Indications

• Hours, minutes, date, central seconds

Movement

• Calibre 2450 Q6
• Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
• Mechanical, self-winding
• 26.20 mm diameter (11¼’’’), 3.60 mm thick
• Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
• 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
• 196 components
• Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Case

• 18K 3N yellow gold
• 40 mm diameter, 8.55 mm thick
• Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial

• Gold-toned, circular decor
• Convex external zone with circular “pearl” minute-track composed by polished 18K 3N yellow gold pearls
• 18K 3N yellow gold applied hour-markers and hour/minutes hands

Buckle

• 18K 3N yellow gold pin buckle
• Polished half Maltese cross-shaped