Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual – L.U.C Calibre 96.36-L

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Chopard Manufacture is laying a new milestone in its history with L.U.C Calibre 96.36-L, an original high complication movement pairing a flying tourbillon and a perpetual calendar with large date display. The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual timepiece reflects the finest expertise and innovation cultivated by the Maison’s workshops. It features a case in ethical 18-carat yellow gold measuring 40.5 millimetres in diameter, with a slender, bassiné profile. This aesthetic refinement extends to the highly legible Forest Green dial in hand-guilloché gold and an ingenious interchangeable strap system treats the watch to a variety of styles. While the movement’s accuracy is chronometer-certified, the high-quality finishing of this exceptional model has also earned it Poinçon de Genève recognition.

L.U.C Calibre 96.36-L: an high complication movement

The art of Chopard Manufacture consists in appropriating complications by enriching them with its distinctive innovative vision, as well as assembling them in new and ingenious ways. The history of Chopard Manufacture since 1996 has been dotted with landmark innovative models, the most recent of which is L.U.C Calibre 96.36-L.

In 2013, the L.U.C Perpetual T model, Chopard’s first tourbillon with perpetual calendar, made its mark on the history of the Manufacture. Six years later, it was followed by the no less innovative L.U.C Flying T Twin, constituting the Manufacture’s first timepiece with flying tourbillon and automatic winding, as well as being the only one in its category to receive both Poinçon de Genève and chronometer certification.

Today, the L.U.C 96.36-L movement represents the culmination of these innovations. Illustrating the Manufacture’s constant quest to excel, it unites the finest previous feats in an unprecedented technical development involving no fewer than 319 components. Thanks to the micro-rotor and Chopard Twin technology’s two stacked barrels, the 6 mm-thick movement associates the lightness of a flying tourbillon with all the gear trains enabling this model to provide day of the week and large date displays, as well as a month indication, requiring no manual adjustments to keep track of variable month lengths and leap years. The perpetual calendar will need only a one-day correction on March 1^st, 2100 – not because of a fault in the mechanism, but due to the Gregorian calendar which stipulates that centuries are leap years only if divisible by 400. The movement’s accuracy also ensures instantaneous display of all the perpetual calendar indications.

Distinguished by the absence of an upper bridge, the flying tourbillon of the L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual timepiece enables unobstructed views. Equipped with a stop-second function enabling the time to be set to the exact second, the tourbillon enhances the movement’s accuracy. This precision is chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute), as is the case for all L.U.C calibres with a seconds indication – in this instance located on the tourbillon carriage. A demonstration of technical virtuosity, the tourbillon – invented in the 18^th century to eliminate the influence of the Earth’s gravity and isochronous forces – is one of the most sophisticated horological complications. Chopard‘s flying tourbillon stems from several years of research and development, testifying to the Manufacture’s maturity.

Finally, thanks to the energy accumulated in the two stacked barrels using Chopard Twin technology, the L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual timepiece is endowed with a 65-hour power reserve.

The Poinçon de Genève: a guarantee of excellence

The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual model testifies to the finest craftsmanship cultivated by Chopard.  Several hundred made-to-measure tools are involved in reworking and hand-trimming each rough-cut component, before manually decorating it using traditional skills – even if it is destined to remain concealed beneath a bridge. Each creation is successively enhanced by chamfering, satin-brushing, polishing, circular graining and Côtes de Genève patterns, followed by individual testing and hand assembly in the workshops. The prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, to which Chopard has been loyal for many years, attests to this degree of artisanal skill and meticulous care. This aesthetic and technical certification is validated by an independent body and governed by a law instated by the Canton of Geneva. It imposes peerless criteria of excellence encompassing the case and movement, including their structure, appearance and precision. Since the launch of its first flying tourbillon calibre in 2019, all Chopard watch models equipped with it – from the L.U.C Flying T Twin model to the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon – have earned this prestigious label of excellence.

A slimmer, reshaped case

The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is the first high complication L.U.C model to benefit from the flying tourbillon and comes with a new case featuring a subtly refined design whose sophistication is on a par with the movement finishing. At 40.5 millimetres in diameter and 11.6 millimetres thick, it fits smoothly on any wrist. The case features a bassine shape, meaning its base is narrower than its domed, polished bezel. Reflecting craftsmanship inspired by the pocket watches that emerged from Louis-Ulysse Chopard’s creative heritage in the 19^th century, this distinctive profile creates an impressive sense of aesthetic refinement.

This new case with its vertical satin-brushed sides is paired with a curved, fluted crown that is not only elegant but also easy to handle. The slightly domed sapphire crystal perfectly matches the curves of the bezel, giving the watch a rounded, harmonious profile. Another sign of fine craftsmanship is that the lugs are made separately before being welded to the case to ensure a perfect aesthetic result. Crafted in ethical gold, this reshaped case makes the L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual a timeless object for watchmaking connoisseurs and paves the way for the aesthetics of future timepieces in the collection.

The hand-guilloché dial: a strong commitment to craftsmanship

Since the first L.U.C 1860 timepiece was presented in 1997, dials for L.U.C models have perpetuated a legacy reflecting the purest watchmaking tradition, in which the art of guilloché has become a collection signature. Having teetered on the brink of extinction during the 1990s, this age-old craft has survived thanks to the efforts of Manufactures such as Chopard, which still owns a few rare guilloché lathes with which specialised artisans guide their burins over fine metal surfaces to adorn them with repeating patterns accurate to a tenth of a millimetre.

Featuring a deep Forest Green shade, the dial of this new creation is itself naturally guilloché with a sunburst pattern radiating from the flying tourbillon opening at 6 o’clock, the focal point of this timepiece.

A concentric snailed pattern runs around the dial periphery, below the minutes track. The hands and hour-markers are in yellow gold. The Chopard perpetual calendar highlights the most frequently requested indication – the date – through a broad twin aperture at 12 o’clock, while the two gold-rimmed perpetual calendar counters are also snailed, with the exception of the central section of one located at 9 o’clock. The latter is dedicated to the 24-hour indicator, which also serves as a day/night display. The upper part (day) bears a sunburst pattern symbolising the presence of the Sun, while the lower section is engraved with a horizontal motif evoking the serenity of the night. Ultimately, the arrangement of each indication is both aesthetically appealing and perfectly legible.

Interchangeable straps: a combination for every occasion

For the first time in the Chopard collections, this new model is equipped with an interchangeable strap system enabling its owner to vary styles and adapt to different outfits, occasions and activities. This extremely convenient new system is designed for quick, tool-free swap-outs via the case middle and clasp. The aim is to guarantee the user-friendliness and wearer comfort that are core to the Chopard philosophy. In addition to the two alligator leather and calfskin straps supplied with the timepiece, each Chopard boutique will offer an assortment of additional straps in a variety of textures and colours.

The L.U.C collection: watchmaking excellence

In 1997, Chopard Manufacture launched the first watch to emerge from its watchmaking workshops: the L.U.C 1860, equipped with the L.U.C 96.01-L movement. Since then, through the L.U.C collection, it has accumulated mastery of all the major horological complications. Between Fleurier and Geneva, Chopard Manufacture conceives, develops, manufactures, assembles, decorates and certifies all its timepieces. Thanks to Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s commitment to watchmaking tradition combined with technical innovation, the Manufacture maintains a high level of finishing by preserving numerous artistic crafts and skills.

L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual

Ref. 161989-0001 – in ethical 18-carat yellow gold with Forest Green dial

Functions and displays

• Central display of the hours and minutes
• Perpetual calendar with day, date month and leap-year cycle
• Months and leap years at 3 o’clock
• Small seconds at 6 o’clock on the flying tourbillon carriage
• 24-hour scale and day of the week at 9 o’clock
• Instantaneous display of the date through a twin-aperture display at 12 o’clock
• Stop-seconds function

Movement

• Mechanical bidirectional self-winding movement L.U.C 96.36-L
• Number of components: 319
• Total diameter: 33.00 mm
• Thickness: 6.00 mm
• Number of jewels: 25
• Frequency: 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz)
• Power reserve: 65 hours
• Flying tourbillon performing one rotation per minute
• Two stacked barrels – Chopard Twin technology
• Winding via a 22-carat gold micro-rotor
• Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève pattern
• Chronometer-certified by the COSC
• Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark

Case

• Ethical 18-carat yellow gold
• Total diameter: 40.50 mm
• Thickness: 11.63 mm
• Water resistance: 30 metres
• Curved, fluted crown in 18-carat yellow gold: 6.60 mm
• Vertical satin-brushed case middle and interhorn space
• Polished bezel and case-back
• Sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides
• Sapphire crystal case-back pane glare-proofed on both sides
• Hand-engraved case-back

Dial and hands

• Dial in ethical gold, adorned with a hand-brushed guilloché pattern, Forest Green colour obtained by PVD treatment
• Date counters with concentric snailing as well as horizontal and sunburst engraving
• Concentrically snailed railway-type minutes track 
• Applied hour-markers in ethical yellow gold
• Dauphine fusée hands in ethical yellow gold
• Baton-type or triangular date hands in ethical yellow gold
• White small seconds on the flying tourbillon carriage

Strap and clasp

• Interchangeable strap in green alligator leather with cognac-toned alligator leather lining and tone-on-tone stitching; or beige grained calfskin with tone-on-tone stitching
• Folding clasp in 18-carat yellow gold

The tourbillon by Chopard Manufacture – Milestones

2002               L.U.C Quattro Tourbillon: the first Chopard Manufacture tourbillon powered by the L.U.C 02.01-L movement, equipped with Chopard Quattro technology and a ’Variner’ variable-inertia balance featuring a balance-spring with a raised terminal curve. It is particularly accurate and is the only tourbillon on the market at the time to beat at a frequency of 4Hz.

2009               L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Twist: the first model from the Manufacture to be equipped with a silicon escapement at the heart of the L.U.C 02.12-L tourbillon movement and featuring significant technical improvements.

2010               L.U.C All-in-One: to honour its 150^th anniversary, Chopard unveils its L.U.C 05.01-L movement combining 14 complications including a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and an equation of time.

2011               L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon: this timepiece with its L.U.C 02.13-L tourbillon movement becomes the first in the world to receive the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark and COSC chronometer certification, as well as the extremely stringent Fleurier Quality Foundation label.

2013               L.U.C Perpetual T: this model is equipped with an extraordinary tourbillon and perpetual calendar L.U.C 02.15-L movement.

2014               L.U.C Quattro Tourbillon QF Fairmined: the world’s first watch made of ethical gold (L.U.C 02.13-L1 movement).

2019               L.U.C Flying T Twin: the Manufacture’s first mechanical self-winding flying tourbillon model. Powered by its L.U.C 96.24-L movement, it earns both the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark and COSC chronometer certification.

2022               L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon: equipped with the L.U.C 08.02-L movement, this model sees the addition of a tourbillon with a sapphire bridge to the L.U.C Full Strike series’ minute repeater striking on monobloc sapphire gongs.

2025               L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual: with the new L.U.C 96.36-L movement, Chopard Manufacture introduces an unprecedented high complication model combining its flying tourbillon with a large perpetual calendar.

Since 2002, the extremely sophisticated craftsmanship cultivated by Chopard Manufacture as expressed through its tourbillon movements has attracted the interest of major watch collectors who covet these exceptional limited-series timepieces. Thanks to this sense of creativity and innovation, Chopard notably remained one of the rare Manufactures to earn chronometer certification for its tourbillons until 2016.