The ZRC Grands Fonds Heritage Smoke is a contemporary tool watch that draws heavily on the design and spirit of the original Grands Fonds models developed for the French Navy in the 1960s. This reference, GF381318, is part of ZRC’s Heritage collection, which is characterised by its adherence to the visual codes and technical ethos of vintage diver’s watches, while integrating modern manufacturing techniques and materials. The result is a timepiece that possesses a distinctively vintage appearance, underscored by functional robustness and a clear focus on utility.
A defining feature of the Heritage Smoke is its so-called ‘tropicalised’ dial, which presents a gradient brown colour scheme evocative of dials that have aged over decades. This effect is achieved through a subtle patina and a transition from lighter brown at the centre to near-black at the periphery, producing a dynamic interplay of hues under varying light condition. The dial is marked by classic printed numerals and markers in white, complemented by patina-like luminous dots and oversized pencil hands, all treated with Super-LumiNova X1 to ensure legibility in low-light environments. The inclusion of a lollipop seconds hand further reinforces the vintage tool watch aesthetic, while the overall layout remains uncluttered and purpose-driven.
Powering the Grands Fonds Heritage Smoke is the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement in its elaborated version, adjusted to an accuracy of +/- 7 seconds per day. This calibre operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and offers a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The movement’s reliability and precision are in keeping with the watch’s origins as an instrument for professional divers, providing hours, minutes, seconds, and a stop-seconds function for precise time-setting.
The case is constructed from stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter, with a thickness of approximately 14 mm. Its shape is a signature of the Grands Fonds line, offering both ergonomic comfort and a distinctive silhouette. The case is designed as a monobloc structure, featuring a screw-down crown positioned at 6 o’clock within a protective articulated module. This configuration not only guards against shocks but also ensures that the crown cannot be operated inadvertently when the watch is worn, thereby contributing to its water resistance. The case is rated for 300 metres of water resistance, with individual testing conducted at depths up to 1,500 metres to verify integrity. A 3 mm cambered sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment provides additional durability and clarity. The unidirectional bezel, fashioned from black ceramic, is marked by luminous dots in a vintage eggshell tone, further enhancing the tool watch character.
The ZRC Grands Fonds Heritage Smoke stands as a technical instrument that pays homage to the utilitarian watches of the past, blending historical design cues with contemporary engineering. Its vintage tool watch appearance is accentuated by the tropicalised dial, hexagonal steel case, and sand-coloured FKM rubber ‘Tropic’ strap, all of which evoke the era of military diving while meeting the demands of present-day use. This synthesis of tradition and innovation ensures the Heritage Smoke remains a functional and visually compelling choice for those who appreciate the enduring appeal of classic dive watches.
