The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian Green continues an evolution, combining the manufacture’s expertise in ultra-thin movements with its longstanding proficiency in ornamental stone dials. Following the success of the inaugural Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar in 2023, the maison has expanded the collection with a new reference featuring a magnetic (visual and not physical) obsidian dial, available in Obsidian Green, housed within the distinctive architecture of the Polo case.
The Historical Context of the Polo Perpetual Calendar
The lineage of the Piaget Polo traces back to 1979, when the original model emerged as a distinctive timepiece that redefined the attributes of a sports watch through its integration of elegance and technical innovation. Under the direction of Yves G. Piaget, the initial Polo established a visual language characterised by alternating horizontal ridges and grooves, known as gadroons, that extended from the dial to the bracelet, creating a cohesive aesthetic. Throughout the subsequent decades, the collection underwent numerous iterations, including the Polo FortyFive in 2009, which marked a strategic recalibration of the design ethos, and the Polo S in 2016, which introduced a cushion-shaped case within a round bezel.
The perpetual calendar complication entered the Polo collection relatively recently, with the first model appearing in 2023. This integration represented a natural progression for Piaget, given the manufacture’s established expertise in complicated watchmaking and its historical commitment to ultra-thin calibres dating back to 1957 with the 9P movement and the 12P in 1960, which was the world’s thinnest self-winding movement of its time. The 2023 Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian limited edition, with its distinctive stone dial, proved so popular that it sold out almost immediately, prompting the development of the current models.
Natural beauty and technical expertise
The dials of the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian models exemplify the technical challenges and expertise involved in working with ornamental stones, a speciality that Piaget pioneered in the early 1960s. Obsidian, a form of volcanic glass produced when lava cools rapidly, presents significant technical hurdles due to its inherent fragility when sliced into the thin sections required for watch dials. The material exhibits a natural iridescence resulting from mineral-rich sulphide liquid droplets trapped within the rock as it solidifies, creating a unique appearance that ensures no two dials are identical.
The technical layout of the dial adheres to the classical arrangement of perpetual calendar complications, with three precisely positioned subdials. The month and leap year indicator occupies the 12 o’clock position, the pointer date resides at 3 o’clock, and the day of the week is displayed at 9 o’clock. Each subdial features a white gold frame and snailed interior finishing to enhance legibility and create visual depth through light reflection. At the 6 o’clock position, a vertical moonphase display operates within a discreet aperture, also framed in white gold. The applied hour markers and openworked hands include matching coloured inserts that complement the respective dial colours, ensuring optimal readability against the obsidian background.
The technical complexity of this dial arrangement is further magnified by the challenge of securing these elements to the delicate obsidian surface without causing fractures or damage to the stone, requiring precise micromechanical manufacturing techniques and experienced craftsmanship.
The 1255P Ultra-Thin Movement
At the heart of the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian beats the manufacture 1255P ultra-thin self-winding movement, which represents a significant technical accomplishment in contemporary watchmaking. With a thickness of precisely 4mm, this calibre builds upon Piaget‘s historical expertise in ultra-thin movements, specifically drawing from the architecture of the 1200P calibre introduced in 2010, which itself was a descendant of the revolutionary 12P movement from 1960.
The 1255P calibre comprises 238 components, including 25 jewels, all orchestrated within the confined space of its 29.9mm diameter. The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz), delivering a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The technical challenge of incorporating a full perpetual calendar mechanism within such spatial constraints necessitated innovative engineering solutions in the arrangement and miniaturisation of components.
The perpetual calendar complication is constructed as a module that sits atop the base movement, with the entire calendar mechanism restricted to a height of 1.65mm. This module controls the day, date, month, leap year, and moonphase displays, calculated to maintain accurate timekeeping until the year 2100, when adjustment will be required due to the Gregorian calendar’s exception to the leap year rule.
The movement finishing demonstrates traditional haute horlogerie techniques applied with technical precision. The plates and bridges receive Côtes de Genève decoration, a traditional finish created using a specific lathe with a spinning tool head that moves in parallel and circular motion to create the characteristic wave-like pattern. The anglage, or chamfering, along the edges of bridges and plates involves the meticulous beveling of edges to a precise 45-degree angle and polishing, requiring significant handwork and expertise. The blue micro-rotor, visible through the sapphire caseback, features its own set of decorative finishes, contributing to the overall technical aesthetic of the movement.
A comfortable charm for the wrist
The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian’s case architecture adheres to the collection’s signature “shape-in-shape” geometry, where cushioned angles intersect with the soft curves of a round bezel. Crafted from 18-carat white gold, the case measures 42mm in diameter with a thickness of 8.65mm, a dimension made possible by the ultra-thin profile of the 1255P movement.
The case construction features a sophisticated arrangement of finishes, with the bezel receiving a horizontal satin-brushed treatment that visually extends its width, while the flanks incorporate vertical brushing framed by polished bevels – seen from above. This technical approach to finishing creates distinct planes that respond differently to light, enhancing the three-dimensional character of the case architecture.
In the Obsidian Green variant, the bezel is set with 56 brilliant-cut emeralds of varying sizes, arranged to follow the contours of the rounded square that frames the dial. This gem-setting represents an additional layer of technical complexity, requiring precise cutting and placement of stones to maintain the geometric integrity of the design while ensuring secure setting within the metal.
The case back is fitted with a sapphire crystal that allows visual access to the movement, secured with screws to maintain the case’s water resistance rating of 3 bar (approximately 30 metres). The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian Green is fitted with matching rubber straps featuring embossed gadroons that reference the historical design language of the collection. The strap attaches to the case via a concealed quick-change attachment system that maintains the clean lines of the case while providing a secure connection to the wearer’s wrist. A “Piaget” engraved buckle elegantly ends the strap.
The ergonomic considerations in the case design include the balanced proportions that distribute weight evenly across the wrist and the relatively thin profile that allows the timepiece to sit close to the arm, reducing the likelihood of impacts during wear. The rubber strap compounds the comfort factor through its ability to conform to the wrist’s contours while providing sufficient elasticity to accommodate natural movement and minor changes in wrist circumference throughout the day.
A Technical Evolution of Piaget and the Polo Collection
The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian exemplifies the continuous technical evolution that has characterised both the manufacture and its signature collection. From its origins as a quartz-powered sports watch in 1979, the Polo has progressed through numerous technical iterations, each reflecting the horological innovations of its era. The integration of the perpetual calendar complication into the Polo architecture represents a harmonisation of Piaget‘s dual expertise in complicated watchmaking and ultra-thin movement construction.
The development of the 1255P calibre specifically for the Polo Perpetual Calendar demonstrates Piaget‘s commitment to technical advancement, building upon the foundation of the 1200P family whilst incorporating additional functionality. This approach aligns with the historical trajectory of Piaget‘s movement development, which has consistently pushed the boundaries of thinness without compromising reliability or performance.
The utilisation of obsidian for the dials connects to another aspect of Piaget‘s technical heritage: the creation of ornamental stone dials that began in the 1960s. The application of this expertise to contemporary watchmaking necessitates the adaptation of traditional techniques to meet modern standards of durability and precision, reflecting the ongoing dialogue between horological tradition and innovation.
As Piaget continues to explore the technical possibilities within the Polo collection, with recent developments including the Piaget Polo Tourbillon Moonphase announced this year, the Perpetual Calendar Obsidian stands as a testament to the manufacture’s technical capabilities and its capacity to integrate diverse aspects of its heritage into coherent horological expressions. The Obsidian Green variant, limited to 18 numbered pieces, represents the technical sophistication and aesthetic refinement that define contemporary haute horlogerie.
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian Green Technical Specifications
Ref. GOA49007 limited edition 18 pieces – EUR 149,000
Movement
- Calibre 1255P: 4 mm ultra-thin self-winding mechanical perpetual calendar, hours, minutes and moonphase indicator
- Power reserve (in hours): Approx. 42
- Frequency (vph): 21,600
- Frequency (Hz): 3
- Diameter (lines): 13.25
- Diameter (mm): 29.9
- Number of jewels: 25
- Thickness (mm): 4
- Number of components: 238
- Finishing: Circular Côtes de Genève, Wheels with sunburst motif, Engraved coat-of-arms, Circular-grained and bevelled bridges, Blued screws on bridges, Blue oscillating weight
Case
- Case shape: Round
- Case diameter: 42 mm
- Case thickness: 8.65 mm
- Case material: 18k white gold
Dial
- Dial colour: Green
- Dial finishing: polished obsidian green stone
- Index: Batons
Strap & Buckle
- Strap material: Rubber
- Strap colour: Green
- Strap buckle: 18K white gold
- Strap buckle: Triple folding buckle
About Piaget
Piaget epitomizes daring creativity a quality that has continued to permeate through the Maison since its beginnings in 1874. From his frst workshop in La Cote- aux- Fees, Georges-Edouard Piaget devoted himself to crafting high-precision movements in a feat that formed the very foundations of our pioneering name. In the late 1950s, Piaget unveiled the ultra-thin movements that would later become the Maison’s trademark and the cornerstone of the Altiplano collection. As a true innovator of the watch and jewellery world, Piaget strongly believed in creativity and artistic values. It is within the walls of our Ateliers de l’Extraordinaire where master artisans continue to harness rare skills that have been preserved and perfected from generation to generation, transforming gold, stones and precious gems into dazzling works of art. Through its pursuit of masterful craftsmanship, the Maison has created emblems of daring excellence channeled into its collections including Altiplano, Piaget Polo, Limelight Gala, Possession, Piaget Sunlight, Piaget Rose and Extremely Piaget.