A flight around the world, chasing the sun over the deep waters of the seas and oceans and up and over the seemingly endless grass landscapes of the steppes: Moritz Grossmann captures the very colours of this journey in its new GMT Guilloche. The dials of the two new GMT Guilloche models feature a matt green inspired by wide meadows and hidden coves, while an evocative orange is reminiscent of the setting sun, whose glow we are always yearning to follow.
This image of an imaginary journey is also reflected in the function of these two new watches as the GMT Guilloche is a continuation of the first Moritz Grossmann dual-time zone watch. The new models both incorporate an exceptionally practical function: a glance at the GMT provides orientation in different time zones and does so in an exceptionally stylish yet subtle manner.
Stylish and functional: the second time zone
Its function is immediately apparent: a 24-hour scale encircling the dial displays the secondary time. An arrow-shaped hand element that moves around the outside of the dial makes it easy to see at a glance whether it is day or night in the time zone furthest away. The time in the wearer’s current location is shown by the hour and minute hands in the centre combined with a small seconds display at 6 o’clock.
A separate setting crown at 10 o’clock allows the arrow indicator for the second time zone to be easily adjusted in hourly increments both forwards and backwards. The 12-hour display in the centre of the dial remains unaffected by this.
The 24-hour display is transmitted to the time zone ring via a complex system of gear wheels and always runs in accordance with the centre time. The 24-hour display also follows the 12-hour hand when the centre time is set using the crown.
Time-honoured craftsmanship: fine dials in fascinating colours
The most eye-catching element of the watch is the finely guillochéd dial. This traditional craft is all about creating geometric patterns from numerous fine lines, which are engraved into the dial using a guilloché machine. Despite the fact a machine is used, it is the skill of the guillocheur that really counts here as they must constantly reposition the burin and apply just the right amount of pressure to create the prescribed motif. Not only does this require the utmost concentration, but also superb visual judgement, as only in this way can the perfect evenness and desired aesthetic be created. The ultra-thin grooves are polished to a high sheen using a diamond tool, giving rise to fascinating light reflections.
This effect is only enhanced by the colours – matt green on one model and a characterful orange on the other, applied using a special coating. Thanks to the guillochage, these nuances look different from every angle.
The handcrafted hour, minute and small second hands further enhance the balanced overall impression: lance-shaped hands made from polished steel circle above the orange-coloured dial, while the green dial is combined with lance-shaped steel hands annealed in blue, which serve as a striking contrast.
The calibre 100.8: the Glashütte art of watchmaking in its most precise form
On the back of the watch, a striking interplay of colours sparkle through the sapphire crystal back, which also reveals the elaborate mechanics of the exquisite calibre 100.8 in a high-artistic finish. This features the characteristic components of the Moritz Grossmann movements, such as the 2/3 plate with the raised gold chatons, the Grossmann ratchet, the separately removable winding unit with pusher mechanism and the cantilevered balance cock with micrometer screw, as well as the mass-optimised balance.
On the GMT, the mechanism for the second time is integrated into the movement on the dial side. The 24-hour display is transmitted via the hour wheel of the centre time to another hour wheel and an intermediate wheel to the ring of the second time zone.
The second time zone display can be adjusted via the second crown at 10 o’clock. A ratchet wheel with ratchet spring is used to adjust the time in the pre-defined hourly gearshifts.
Limited to eight pieces each
The two new versions of the Moritz Grossmann GMT have a stainless steel case and are worn on a black alligator leather strap. Both versions are limited to eight pieces each.
Moritz Grossmann GMT Guilloche Technical Specifications
Price: 62.800€, including VAT
Functions
Hours and minutes,
subsidiary seconds with stop seconds,
second time zone (24-hour display) by means of revolving hand,
Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Movement
Manufactory calibre 100.8. manual winding, regulated in five positions
No. of parts: 253
Jewels : 26 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement; Lever escapement
Oscillator:
Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws,
Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve,
Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance:
Diameter 14.2 mm,
frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours when fully wound
Movement dimensions: Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.55 mm
Special features
Grossmann balance;
hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher;
second time zone (24-hour display) by means of exterior revolving hand, time zone display that can be corrected backwards and forwards at any time using the separate crown at 10 o’clock;
space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash;
adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock;
pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver;
balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved;
broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing;
3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel;
raised gold chatons with pan-head screws;
separately removable clutch winding mechanism;
stop seconds for hand setting
Operating elements
Two crowns in stainless steel to wind the watch and set the time and the second time display, pusher in stainless steel to start the watch
Case
Three-part, stainless steel
Case dimensions: Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.85 mm
Crystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Dial
Solid silver, guilloché
Hands: Manually crafted, steel polished/ steel annealed to a blue hue
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in stainless steel
Moritz Grossmann
Moritz Grossmann, born in Dresden in 1826, was deemed a visionary among Germany’s great horologists. In 1854, his friend Ferdinand Adolph Lange persuaded the young, highly talented watchmaker to establish his own mechanical workshop in Glashütte. Apart from building a respected watchmaking business, Grossmann was committed to political and social causes. He established the German School of Watchmaking in 1878. Moritz Grossmann passed away unexpectedly in 1885, after which his manufacture was liquidated.
The spirit of Moritz Grossmann’s horological traditions sprang back to life in 2008 when trained watchmaker Christine Hutter discovered the venerable Glashütte brand and had it re-registered. She developed concepts and was inspired by the vision of reviving Grossmann’s legacy more than 120 years later with a particularly exquisite wristwatch. And she convinced private watch enthusiasts to support her in making this dream come true. On 11 November 2008, she founded Grossmann Uhren GmbH in Glashütte.
At Grossmann, gifted watchmakers are preserving traditions without copying historic timepieces. With innovation, superb craftsmanship, a combination of traditional and contemporary manufacturing methods as well as precious materials, they are celebrating ‘Schönstes deutsches Handwerk’ with their timepieces.
