The resurgence of Vulcain’s Skindiver line breathes new life into the legacy of Swiss dive watches, and in 2025, the Skindiver Chronograph and Skindiver Nautique GMT stand poised at the confluence of vintage charm and contemporary mechanics. Overseen by Guillaume Laidet since 2022, the revived Vulcain catalog is drawing collectors not only for its storied past, but for its refined modern reinterpretations. What began with a dive into archives has surfaced as an exciting pair of models for the global horological community.
Vintage Styling Reimagined
Both watches pay homage to past Vulcain classics with dials that evoke maritime adventure and legibility. The Skindiver Chronograph is offered in two configurations: a matte black dial adorned with brown SuperLuminova indexes, and a matte silver dial set with white SuperLuminova. Each variant channels the spirit of 1960s instrumentation, balancing contrast and clarity for professional use under water or in subdued lighting. The chronograph’s dial arrangement showcases a running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and a bold 30-minute register at 3 o’clock, highlighted by orange or red accents depending on the chosen model. A rarely seen decimal scale decorates the minute track, segmenting each minute into 100 units, an unusual and practical feature for technical timing and calculations.
The Nautique GMT, meanwhile, embraces its purpose for global explorers with a matte black dial, available with either white or beige Super-LumiNova® hands and indices. Framed by a black ceramic bidirectional bezel and protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal, the dial layout maintains clarity and vintage appeal while uncannily echoing Vulcain’s original Nautique. With white print contrasting sharply against the dial, legibility remains paramount for a traveller or diver.
Mechanical Workhorses at Heart
The technical heart of the Skindiver Chronograph is the automatic ETA 7753, a respected workhorse in chronograph circles. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), the 26-jewel calibre provides reliable chronograph and timekeeping functions with a healthy power reserve of 42 hours. While Vulcain has not specified decorative finishes in official documentation, ETA 7753 typically features perlage on the mainplate, Geneva stripes on the rotor, and a robust architecture with Incabloc® shock protection—a testament to both utility and traditional Swiss engineering. The movement is well known for its vertical clutch, smooth pusher action, and precise column-wheel engagement, attributes that serve the professional diver and sporting enthusiast alike.
In the Skindiver Nautique GMT, Vulcain have chosen the Soprod C125 GMT calibre. With 28,800 vibrations per hour and a 42-hour power reserve, this automatic movement brings independent adjustment of the 24-hour hand, an asset for those traversing time zones. Soprod’s C125 is built for reliability, with bidirectional winding and strong magnetic resistance. The GMT function is crisply executed, and finishes on Soprod C125 movements generally include rhodium plating and subtle striping on the oscillating mass. As expected, the movement sits low, enabling the Nautique GMT’s impressively slim profile.
Contemporary Engineering, Compact Proportions
Vulcain’s attention to traditional sizing is immediately evident. The Skindiver Chronograph’s vertically brushed 316L stainless steel case measures 39.7mm across and a mere 13mm thick—a size harmonious with vintage predecessors and refreshingly elegant for modern wrists. The bidirectional bezel is knurled for sure grip, inset with black ceramic for enduring beauty and scratch resistance. A domed sapphire crystal underscores the vintage aesthetic, and water resistance is rated to 20 ATM (200 meters). The caseback carries an engraved vignette of a diver in motion, aligning the watch with its adventurous heritage. Options for black or brown leather straps and a stainless steel bracelet further broaden its appeal.
The Nautique GMT maintains its compact profile with a brushed 316L stainless steel case at 38.3mm in diameter, with a thickness of 12.2mm. The case is finished with a combination of brushing and polish, offering a play of light and shadow that heightens its perceived luxury. The screw-down polished caseback assists with water resistance to 200 meters, and the box-type double-domed sapphire crystal ensures distortion-free legibility. Strap options include a sporty rubber strap in carbon fibre motif or an elegantly proportioned stainless steel bracelet with deployant clasp and micro-adjustment, enhancing both comfort and usability.
Closing Thoughts
Vulcain’s Skindiver Chronograph and Skindiver Nautique GMT are delightful expressions of the brand’s storied past, thoughtfully imbued with technical excellence and a respectful nod to vintage proportions. The reimagined Chronograph offers robust motor-sport functionality in a package steeped in diving history, while the Nautique GMT is equally suited to aquatic pursuits and international escapades. The revived Vulcain—still burning with the creative flame that marked its inception in 1858—continues to forge a future from the rich embers of its own legacy. For those in pursuit of heritage, reliability, and Swiss precision in compact packaging, both models stand as compelling options within the modern dive watch landscape.
Retail prices reflect the positioning among distinguished instrument watches: the Skindiver Chronograph starts at CHF2,500/€2,700 for leather straps, rising to CHF2,760/€2,980 on steel, while the Nautique GMT is offered at CHF1,890/€2,040 on rubber, or CHF2,150/€2,320 on steel. Vulcain’s reputation as the watch of presidents and adventurers is half myth, half revelation—and its present-day collection is all substance.
