There are watchmakers who refine tradition, and there are those who reconstruct it. Holthinrichs belongs emphatically to the second category, a brand unafraid to reinterpret the language of watchmaking through the prism of architecture, engineering and art. The newly unveiled Signature Ornament – LAB Series 1.24, created in collaboration with Chris Alexander – The Dial Artist – is not just a watch that consequently tells the time, but a sculptural exercise where horology and artistry converge. Limited to seventy-nine examples, it stands as a golden interlude in the ongoing narrative of Holthinrichs’ forays into innovation.
From a shy architect to an established brand
Founded in 2016 by Dutch architect-turned-watchmaker Michiel Holthinrichs, the maison has grown from an experimental atelier into a recognised name of avant-garde watchmaking. The Ornament 1 marked the beginning, presenting to the horological world a case born from 3D printing – then a first in artisanal haute horlogerie. The RAW Ornament pushed the theme of “Horlogerie Brut”, where raw, industrial textures met refined manual finishes. What followed in 2024 was a new era, with the Signature Ornament and Ornament Nouveau, the latter housing the first Dutch manufacture calibre.
Today, the brand resides within Delft’s historic national armoury building, a monumental hall where military history and the romance of Vermeer’s city meet the delicate art of fine watchmaking. In this new home, Holthinrichs has transcended a simple role as a boutique brand, instead positioning itself as a genuine cultural and artisanal hub, nurturing local craftsmanship while sending ripples through global watch culture. The LAB Series reflects that mindset, a laboratory of ideas, a realm of experimentation at the fringes of conventional watchmaking.
I remember I first talked with Michiel at the beginning of 2017, being already impressed by what I have seen online about his work. We first met at the now defunct Baselworld, and what was first a good impression about a young artist grew into a profound admiration and respect for him, his vision and his products. Until now, I can say with open heart – always impressed, never disappointed. And if you don’t know Michiel and his crew – you should! He likes cars too…
Magic under the skilled hands of Chris Alexander – The Dial Artist
The soul of the LAB Series 1.24 is encapsulated in its dial, a disc of extraordinary texture and depth conceived entirely through artisanal processes. The dial journey begins in Delft, milled from a solid slice of brass into a double-domed form. Through deliberate carving a rugged texture is created, which then undergoes a controlled application of patina. Using electrolysis and successive heat treatments, the brass surface is transformed into a vivid copper oxide, a green hue of great vibrancy and complexity, instantly reminiscent of historic verdigris adorning ancient armoury fittings.
It is then that the dialogue between Delft and Scotland begins. Sent to The Dial Artist’s atelier, Chris Alexander applies 24ct leaf gold by hand. His method goes beyond mere adhesion: the gold is pressed and fixed across the patinated dial in a way that ensures absolute uniqueness, each fragment of metal leaf embedding itself into the rustic topography. No two dials are alike: the randomised scattering of luminescence across a darker, textured surface gives the unmistakable sensation of turning raw chemistry into refined ornament. Finally, the dial returns to Delft to be assembled into the completed watch, its naturalistic colour palette a resonant echo of the armoury’s own coppered beams and gilded heraldry.
This approach is what Holthinrichs describes as Horlogerie Brut, a philosophy that accepts the unpredictable qualities of natural materials and transforms them into elements of luxury. The dial in this LAB piece is the truest manifestation of that ethos yet: an alchemy of oxidation, artistry and hand-applied gold.
The horological dream – from a plane movement to a work of art
Beating within is a modified Sellita SW300, a calibre of proven robustness and reliability, which becomes here a stage for further experimentation. While most brands might leave such a movement confined to anonymity, Holthinrichs insists on shaping it into an expression of its wider design themes. The winding rotor has been hand-patinated using an in-house developed acid and heat treatment, perfectly echoing the dial’s expressive finish. Unlike typical coated or plated surfaces, this patina is intrinsic and unrepeatable, a physical manifestation of controlled oxidation presented in bronze-like richness.
The rotor’s tungsten weight is further enhanced by a scraping and heat treatment that teases delicate tones of blue and purple, producing subtle highlights that shimmer under changing light. These chromatic tones capture a theatrical beauty when in motion, as if the movement itself resonates with the artistic interplay of verdigris and gold on the dial. While offering the dependable 4 Hz frequency and a standard power reserve of forty-two hours, the mechanical heart feels transformed and emotionally charged, its industrial base infused with character by Holthinrichs’ artisan interventions.
One of the most beautiful cases in the modern watchmaking
The 3D printed titanium case is the element that anchors the LAB Series identity, marrying technical modernity with artisanal finishing. Fabricated from Grade 5 titanium through high-end selective laser melting, the case defies conventional watchmaking architecture. Its lugs, impossibly thinned and sculptural, belong more to the language of structural design and architecture than to a practical wristwatch form, an exploration of how lightness and visual openness can harmoniously coexist with strength.
Measuring 38.5 mm in diameter and only 7.8 mm without crystal (9.85 mm with sapphire), the watch wears compact yet commanding, an impression heightened by curved ergonomics. The dramatically downturned lugs hug the wrist, preventing unnecessary play and distributing weight, which at a mere 37.7 grams without strap turns this sculptural object into an ethereal companion.
The case undergoes laborious finishing after its 48-hour printing process. Surfaces are milled for precision, aligned for geometry, and then touched by hand, where contrasting zones of satin texture, residual 3D printed granulometry, and polished accents cohabit in fascinating dialogue. Few cases in contemporary watchmaking reveal this level of narrative through their production process, simultaneously speaking of cutting-edge technology and artisanal labour. And if you ask me what is the most beautiful case now – the Holthinrichs names first. And second… And third… It’s magnificent! Maybe one can tell that I really love this.
An object of art that creates pure emotions
The Signature Ornament – LAB Series 1.24 (€ 5900 ex. VAT including international shipping) is both a watch and a work of art, positioned at the crossroads of chemistry, architecture, and horology. With its green patinated dial flecked with leaf gold, it becomes a wearable expression of Delft’s rich heritage, with echoes of gilded woodwork, historical copper accents, and artistic interplay that recalls the golden glow of Vermeer’s city. The movement, although rooted in tried and tested mechanics, has been transfigured into a miniature gallery of textures, the rotor coloured by oxidation as though it were an artefact unearthed and reimagined. The titanium case consolidates the piece as one of the most structural and recognisable designs in independent watchmaking, a feather-light sculpture that feels like an extension of architectural ethos rather than mere casing.
In viewing the trajectory of Holthinrichs Watches, one cannot help but admire the coherence with which the brand has evolved. From the first audacious 3D printed case in 2016 to occupying the historic Delft armoury, from ornamented Brutalism to refined artisanal dials, the maison has matured into one of the boldest voices in contemporary horology. With the LAB Series 1.24, Michiel Holthinrichs proves that experimentation, when rooted in deep respect for both history and artistry, can yield results that are not eccentric diversions but enduring beauty.
The piece is not just limited to seventy-nine examples by arbitrary number, but rather symbolically tied to gold itself, the 79th element in the periodic table. A poetic choice and a reminder that in the right hands, watchmaking can be a true philosopher’s stone, turning raw material and creative courage into lasting brilliance. Chapeau!
Holthinrichs Signature Ornament – LAB Series 1.24 Technical Specifications
Limited to 79 pieces, € 5900 ex. VAT including international shipping, first pieces to be delivered before the end of 2025
Movement
- Modified Sellita SW-300 with handmade and carved patina rotor.
Case
- 3D printed Grade 5 titanium
- Case diameter: 38.5 mm.
- Case thickness: 7.8 mm excluding domed crystal / 9.85 mm including sapphire crystal
- Lug to lug: 46 mm
- Weight: 37.7 grams (without strap)
Dial
- Handmade domed copper patina dial (Holthinrichs) with hand-applied
- 24crt leaf gold (The Dial Artist) and white pad-printed logo.
Strap
- Cognac Rooster Leg, with titanium buckle and pin, 20/16mm
