The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 is a striking manifestation of horological ambition and technical refinement, blending iconic aesthetics with a host of mechanical innovations to commemorate the brand’s 150th anniversary.
Unveiled as a limited edition of only 150 pieces, the RD5 serves as a sophisticated homage to the legendary Royal Oak Jumbo, reinvigorating Gérald Genta’s 1972 icon with a dual complication never before seen in the model’s storied history, a selfwinding chronograph paired with a flying tourbillon. Audemars Piguet’s Research & Development team spent five years bringing this vision to life, focusing not only on technical prowess but also on an ergonomic revolution, ensuring tactile finesse and comfort are at the heart of the experience.
The dial is a masterclass in subtlety and recognition, dressed in the beloved Petite Tapisserie pattern in Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50. There is an undeniable harmony here, where rhodium-toned gold bathtub hour markers and luminescent hands in 18-carat white gold trace time with tangible elegance. Legibility is paramount: chronograph counters positioned symmetrically at 3 and 9 o’clock are snailed and presented in precisely the same blue hue as the dial, their finish adding a pleasing visual depth. The chronograph hands, forged from titanium, elevate the overall lightness and balance of the composition. At 12 o’clock, the dial bears a historic Audemars Piguet signature, reaching back through the manufacture’s archives and connecting the present to the origins of its craft.
Calibre 8100
Within the slender case resides the newly conceived calibre 8100, a selfwinding marvel that reimagines the mechanical language of chronographs. Measuring only 4 mm in thickness and 31.4 mm in diameter, the calibre comprises 379 parts and 44 jewels, driving a 72-hour power reserve at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour. Its entire construction is a study in ergonomic and technical innovation; the patented rack-and-pinion reset system stores and releases energy for instantaneous hand jumps, departing from the conventional hammer and heart piece mechanism. By eliminating the friction spring traditionally found in chronographs, the reset is rendered smoother and less taxing on the mechanical architecture, with the chronograph hands gliding back to zero in under 0.15 seconds, a feat made possible by the lightweight titanium hand and wheel.
Finishing stands equally as a protagonist in this technical drama. Hand-bevelled bridges, sharp inward angles, and wondrous satin brushing are visible through the glass box sapphire crystals adorning both the dial and caseback, offering an unobstructed view of the movement’s architecture. The peripheral oscillating weight, fashioned in platinum, not only clears sightlines but maintains the watch’s slender profile.
Further, the calibre features a high amplitude flying tourbillon, its titanium cage driven peripherally for enhanced energy distribution and whisper-thin dimensions. The oscillator tolerates greater amplitudes than conventional escapements, boosting reliability and energy management whilst reducing backlash.
A legendary case
Audemars Piguet’s commitment to progressive material science is immaculately expressed in the RD5’s case, which unites the lightness of titanium with the durability and lustrous sheen of bulk metallic glass (BMG). BMG, composed of over 50 percent palladium, exhibits exceptional resistance to both wear and corrosion, while its amorphous structure provides a striking, mirror-polished brilliance, notably on the bezel, push-pieces, and crown function-selector. The titanium case middle and bracelet links are alternately satin brushed and polished, producing a kinetic interplay of light.
Measuring 39 mm in diameter and a mere 8.1 mm in thickness, the RD5 remains faithful to the Royal Oak’s unmistakable proportions while delivering new heights of ergonomic comfort, from its touch-sensitive, short-travel chronograph push-pieces to its discreet crown function selector. Water resistance is rated to 20 metres, suitable for daily wear though clearly designed for elegance rather than aquatic expeditions.
From past to the future
The Royal Oak Jumbo RD5 is not only a technical tour de force but also a testament to Audemars Piguet’s relentless pursuit of excellence, bridging heritage and ingenuity in a piece that feels just as engaging on the wrist as it is impressive on paper. The RD5’s creation, a journey spanning half a decade, signals a new way forward for complicated watches, prioritising user experience, tactile sensitivity, and a seamless blend of mechanical and visual artistry. Engraved on its caseback, 1 of 150 and the new 150th anniversary emblem serve as reminders of rarity and enduring significance.
This is an Audemars Piguet for those who appreciate the subtle symphony of technical innovation and art. It is a timepiece composed not just of metal and mechanics, but of inspiration and vision, carried forward by a manufacture that continues, in its own words, to push the boundaries and build bridges between worlds.
