The Moritz Grossmann BENU Power Reserve is an exquisite embodiment of the Glashütte school of watchmaking, harmonising tradition and technical rigour with discreet contemporary sophistication. The latest iteration, presented in either rose gold or white gold, continues to develop the brand’s legacy, capturing the refined vision of Moritz Grossmann and the superb handiwork of the modern team in Saxony.
Exquisite Estate
The dial of the BENU Power Reserve reveals its soul through a restrained, elegant décor. The central area displays a soft, matt texture reminiscent of fine sandblasting, framed by a vibrant outer ring featuring etched Azurage – fine concentric grooves that capture and reflect light with subtle flair, a first for the brand’s power reserve collection.
Its argent surface shimmers with a sophisticated silver hue, complemented by delicate blue appliqué numerals and indices, crafted and fitted in the manufactory. The blue of these details echoes through the hands: traditional steel, painstakingly shaped and then heat-blued to a rich azure, culminating in tips of near-filamental delicacy. The effect is quintessential Moritz Grossmann – timeless and modern, designed principally for clarity and legibility.
The power reserve indication takes a linear form: beneath the twelve, a small window displays a bar that transitions from pure white at full wind to increasing blue as the spring winds down. This mechanism is actuated by a differential wheel train, allowing a seamless and precise indication that never disrupts the harmony of the dial.
Manual Calibre 100.2
Inside the BENU Power Reserve beats the manual calibre 100.2, an advanced derivative of the celebrated 100.1. Its construction is typical of Glashütte, with a broad two-thirds plate and a pillar movement architecture fashioned from untreated German silver, its surfaces enlivened by broad horizontal ribbing and snailing on the ratchet wheel. The balance cock and escape wheel cock are hand-engraved, their details crisp and evocative of high Saxon tradition. The balance, at 14.2 mm, oscillates leisurely at 18,000 vibrations per hour, held firmly in place by Grossmann’s signature cantilevered balance cock and fine micrometer screw for precise regulation.
The finishing extends beyond mere decoration: three jewels are set in raised gold chatons and anchored with pan-head screws, furthering the narrative of considered craftsmanship. Functions include hours, minutes, a subsidiary seconds with stop second for accurate hand setting, and Grossmann’s innovative manual winder with lateral pusher. The movement is composed of 227 parts, 26 jewels, and incorporates refined innovations such as a modified Glashütte stopwork and a power reserve indicator with backlash adjustment. The deep view offered by the sapphire display back allows one to savour the movement’s complexity and formidable finish at leisure.
Rose and White Gold
The case, available in rose or white gold, measures 41 mm in diameter and 11.65 mm in height. Its silhouette is elegant, confidently proportioned yet never brash, with a slender bezel and lugs that gently arc downward, facilitating both comfort and harmony on the wrist. The finishing is matte, meticulously brushed for an understated sheen. The crown displays the brand’s signature cross grooves, and the case construction is comprised of three parts for structural clarity and simplicity.Both the front crystal and the display back are rendered in sapphire, treated with anti-reflective coating for optimal visual purity. The lugs embrace a grey kudu leather strap with blue stitching, mirroring the dial’s colour drama. The prong buckle is fashioned from stainless steel for a reliable and elegant closure. The case, properly sealed, protects the movement and reflects the perennial dialogue in this watch between aesthetic dignity and practical excellence.
A Conversation between Past and Present, Innovation and Tradition
In its latest BENU Power Reserve, Moritz Grossmann has once again elevated the conversation between past and present, innovation and tradition. Every aspect of the watch, from the delicately textured dial and its Azurage ring, to the inspired mechanism of the linear power reserve and the virtuoso finishing of calibre 100.2, has been considered and mastered. The case stands as a testament to refined German watchmaking: neither ostentatious nor muted, but a perfect vessel for this storied movement and dial. Such details, unobtrusively presented, are what make wearing a Moritz Grossmann watch a daily celebration of horological art. This is watchmaking at its most articulate and poetic, one that invites extended appreciation through the years.
